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Joined the Beige Club - '78 242DL

propav8r said:
Cameron probably used some sort of superballer RSI shiz with the valve reliefs already in the pistons...
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:rofl: This motor has some superballer junkyard pistons :-D I actually gave the machine shop 8 B234 pistons and had him pick the best/largest 4 to match to the cylinders. I also re-ring'ed them of course and got rid of the stock rods and used H-beam rods I bought from Josh. So it's all really just SemiBaller.
 
Mylesofsmyles said:
That'll give you a nice, higher compression ratio too....

Stock B234's are like 10.5:1.....

When ya'll flycut your B230F pistons for a B234 head, you're down below 9.5:1
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I've always read in Volvo lit that B234 was 10:1. I shaved the head on this motor .020" too to up it that extra half point so this particular bastard motor *should* be 10.5:1 now. I've never heard any real numbers on how much compression you'd lose from cutting the reliefs in the B230 pistons. I'd think to be accurate you'd need to measure actual volume of the new reliefs and do the math :e-shrug:

I don't really know what I'm talkin' about though -- just spitballin' so don't quote me on that ;-)
 
Speaking of pistons, did you get a chance to compare the B234 and B230 ones length wise? I was arm-chairing piston length in the green books earlier, and the B234 ones are supposedly longer than even the latest B230 ones. I'm more curious than anything else.... I guess cuz greater resistance to piston slap would make me feel better about doing the Regina-powered B234 project I'm bent on doing. :dance:

Thanks!

-Ryan
 
Cameron said:
I've always read in Volvo lit that B234 was 10:1. I shaved the head on this motor .020" too to up it that extra half point so this particular bastard motor *should* be 10.5:1 now. I've never heard any real numbers on how much compression you'd lose from cutting the reliefs in the B230 pistons. I'd think to be accurate you'd need to measure actual volume of the new reliefs and do the math :e-shrug:

I don't really know what I'm talkin' about though -- just spitballin' so don't quote me on that ;-)
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We're sayin the same thing....you remember details better than I.

All I'm saying is that use of a B230 short block with fly cuts will yield a lower compression motor than your chosen path.
 
yeah but not by much, who cares. you make it right back up with the head.

is there any hard evidence of lowering the compression that much?
 
It's not rocket science - plug numbers in and calculate it. 5 cc's is not uncommon when measuring 2 valve reliefs for 2" intake/1.6" exhaust. I'd guess 7 or 8 cc's for a smaller 4 valve set-up. So plug your numbers in and vary the piston top or combustion chamber numbers by that amount and see what gets spit out. Cameron alluded to it earlier - do the math or it's all just 'guessing'.
 
Ok, so I buttoned up what is I think is the last of it under the car. Fuel lines tightened, driveline bolts checked, trans mount inspected, etc. stared at the engine bay for a while and remembered I need to bleed the clutch... But I think that is it besides adding coolant and putting a few fresh gallons of premium in the tank?

Since I have the underdrive pulley on there and a fresh distibutor install I suppose I have to guess sorta on ignition timing to start... I just pointed the rotor square at the number one post on the cap with the engine at TDC #1 firing. Guess I will figure out pretty quick if that is the wrong way to do it...

Looks like this week is fill with coolant, finalize negative battery cable ground/bolt down and get a new 5 gallon gas can and pour it in the tank. Continuity test with a multimeter shows the block is grounded to the chassis, but still think I will add an extra ground strap between the block and chassis for fun. Then I think also for fun I will pull the coil wire and crank it to verify spark and get the noid light out to make sure injectors are getting voltage. Then I guess (hopefully) light the candles and drive it :e-shrug:

I am always so unnecessarily paranoid and anal about the final details that I can drive myself crazy. Hopefully I did it all right the first time and it just starts right up the first time.
 
Bleed the clutch???

Is that anything like adjusting a clutch cable????

Lolzzz


Damn you!!! I'm just jealous that your 242 will start, run and drive before mine!

Photoshoot of the two late 70's 242 DL's at Davis? I'll bring the chilled IPA!

PS:

You put your battery in the trunk too, right?

What, exactly, did you do for grounding?

At that point, myself. Was just gonna run a ground from the (-) post to the body, back in the trunk, and then ground the engine to the body in the engine bay.
 
Oh I will be at Davis no matter what. i ****ing love the Davis meet and have hopes it won't hail on us like last year :omg: Unless I burn down the 242 before then it will be there with me and I would love to get some pics of the bitchin' '70s Volvos together!

Yeah, my battery is in the trunk. Right rear buttcheek to be exact. I scored a really nice stainless battery box from a customer. The box was built with a large bolt/post through the bottom side corner of it for grounding it. Positive cable goes into it through a larger hole that is grommeted with a big rubber piece to suspend the cable through the hole if that makes sense. The negative cable in the box from the batter just bolts down to the stud on the box I mentioned. Then on the outside of the box a separate negative cable bolts to the same stud, but on the outside of the box, to the chassis. Also have a vinyl piece I cut and zip tied to the positive cable at the positive terminal of the battery inside the box. There is a hold down in the box too to keep the battery from moving in there, but wanted a little extra protection for the pos terminal to make sure it doesn't find it's way to the box for any reason since the box itself is grounded. Don't need a short at the battery on my hands ever, let alone on a fresh build.
 
If "firing" means on the compression stroke you should be close enough to start. I like to go ahead and put the timing pointer at whatever initial timing will be (14-18 btdc for mine) and then stab on compression with rotor as close to #1 as I can get. That makes the timing a bit closer....
 
Maybe another 16v on B230 person could get a tooth count between the intake cam and intermediate cam?... I guess there are still some other variables/assumptions to consider. Just thinking out loud....:oops:

-Ryan
 
M.H. Yount said:
If "firing" means on the compression stroke you should be close enough to start. I like to go ahead and put the timing pointer at whatever initial timing will be (14-18 btdc for mine) and then stab on compression with rotor as close to #1 as I can get. That makes the timing a bit closer....
Click to expand...

Yeah, #1 TDC compression stroke. Crank hash mark lined up with notch on front crank seal housing, cam gears lines up with notches on cam cover. With the underdrive pulley I don't have any timing pointer.

Ryan_R said:
Maybe another 16v on B230 person could get a tooth count between the intake cam and intermediate cam?
Click to expand...

Well, even then there is still a lot of adjustment via the slot on the distributor hold down so with tooth count the same you can still move timing around a good amount. Bentley manual section about replacing the distributor just says put the engine at TDC and line up the rotor with the slot in the distributor housing which is just the section of the housing where the hall sensor connector/distributor plug is so I squared the rotor up with that and adjusted the distributor itself when putting it in so that with it all lined up like that the hold down bolt is right in the middle of the range of rotation in the adjustment slot. Seemed like the most logical way to set it up. Guess I'll see if that is right.
 
Ryan_R said:
Is there any way to reference spark timing to TDC even with a timing light?
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Yeah, you can set base timing in 2.2 -- manual just gives you a spec for what it should be at idle.

DNAsEqUeNcE said:
How are you gonna set your base timing with no mark on the pulley mang?
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I'll add marks to it, but still can't use them to set "real" base timing until it is running. I'll just mark zero with a square level tool against the face of the pulley -- just align that with the hash mark on the crank seal housing and mark that on the pulley. With the zero on it I can just put a small degree wheel or protractor on there to mark any other degrees I'll need.
 
What brand is your crank pulley? I have one that's ridiculously small diameter and also doesn't have a timing mark on it. Half the size of the stock diameter is a little crazy and the lack of marking on it makes me want to use it even less. I got it in trade and won't ever use it...
 
Cameron said:
I'll add marks to it, but still can't use them to set "real" base timing until it is running. I'll just mark zero with a square level tool against the face of the pulley -- just align that with the hash mark on the crank seal housing and mark that on the pulley. With the zero on it I can just put a small degree wheel or protractor on there to mark any other degrees I'll need.
Click to expand...

Perhaps slap a lower B230 timing cover on just so you can reference the ignition timing to something/anything with the timing light?.... I bet you could hack away most of the cover so you don't need to pull the crank bolt to get it on.... then a mark on the block under the dizzy would "lock in" the timing once you're done.

-Ryan
 
klr142 said:
What brand is your crank pulley? I have one that's ridiculously small diameter and also doesn't have a timing mark on it. Half the size of the stock diameter is a little crazy and the lack of marking on it makes me want to use it even less. I got it in trade and won't ever use it...
Click to expand...

I have an Avalanche 2 groove pulley. Not sure the actual percentage smaller it is than stock.

I didn't plan on using one initially, but did a trade deal for it. One of the main reasons I wanted to use it was because it is just 2 groove instead of 3 groove. I knew from the get-go I wasn't going to have power steering on this car so I really only needed 2 grooves for the twin alternator/water pump belts.

Funny thing though that I didn't realize at first was that the Avalanche 2 groove has 2 slightly different size grooves, mimicking the first 2 grooves of a stock pulley. So with my use of it I required 2 different length belts to make them correctly match/tension. I have a 10x888 belt in the back location and a 10x875 belt in the front location. Now it all tensions correctly via the alternator adjustment. :lol:
 
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