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B cam vs. T cam on B230 with AW70

2

240-FAN

New member
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Folks,

This is my first post here. I have a '91 244 slushbox with the AW70. I am going to be due for a timing belt change end of the year. My goal is to keep everything stock and just swap out the cam while I am in there. It has the LH2.4 system.

From what I have read, my car has the stock M cam in it. Going 68mph on the freeway is about 2,800RPMs and oh, its a slug.

Would either the T cam or the B cam help? I do NOT hot rod this thing around. Just looking for better pull and hopefully less mashing of the gas pedal to get her on the freeway.

Are either of these cams just direct swaps? My understanding is the T cam is for more low end grunt - but does it result in the car being even less driveable on the freeways?
Or am I better off looking for a B cam?

Thanks! This forum is just a gold mine with some very amusing comments from posters :lol:
 
Either are an improvement over the M. I have the T cam in my Wife's car and it does well for towing and highway. I've got the B cam and its got more power across the rev scale, slight decrease in low RPM torque though. I recommend doing shim work while you're in there.
 
Appreciate the response. Looks like either would be an acceptable fit. I might probably just go with the one I can cheaper for now.
I read in some of the older posts thought that people swapped out the stock cams without having to shim the valves? Is that incorrect?
 
240-FAN said:
Appreciate the response. Looks like either would be an acceptable fit. I might probably just go with the one I can cheaper for now.
I read in some of the older posts thought that people swapped out the stock cams without having to shim the valves? Is that incorrect?
Click to expand...

For peak performance and best vacuum, shim the cam. IPD shim kit is your best bet......pay for what you use and shipping. I have a B cam with Dales gear for sale if you are interested.
 
240-FAN said:
I read in some of the older posts thought that people swapped out the stock cams without having to shim the valves? Is that incorrect?
Click to expand...

Depends. Measure valve clearance before cam removal. If in spec: just swap cams over.

Base circle is the same on Volvo factory cams.

My opinion.
 
I'm finally going to be installing my b cam, how do I measure the clearance? Does the camshaft have to be turned a certain way to measure it?
 
GeneralBurrito said:
I'm finally going to be installing my b cam, how do I measure the clearance? Does the camshaft have to be turned a certain way to measure it?
Click to expand...

All the details 'splained in the Greenbooks..... surely somebody has a link to a copy, right? Much easier to use the OE Engineer instructions and Illustrations to get it right, rather than TB hearsay and wind up with the inevitable non-running engine.

Veteran tip: be damn careful when torquing that cam centre bolt to the 35 lb.ft with Loctite..... I use an old dead timing belt clamped to the tensioner belt (pics are in my DD build thread). If you try and torque that bolt against the installed timing belt & tensioner, you will regret it.......
 
From the TP30156 Greenbook:

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And the B cam would drop right in (outside of shimming)? I was reading that there are distributor mounted and block mounted (?) ignition systems. Mine is the distributor mounted LH2.4 with wires running to the spark plugs in the engine.

This is going to be my first major engine job, so I wanna take it easy. Plus, I work out in an alley way :roll:
 
Since you have a 240 and a block-mounted distributor, it doesn't matter if you have a cam with or without the slot for the head-mounted distributor (doesn't work the other way around tho).

Make sure to use some assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and a new cam seal when putting the cam back in.

Here is a link to the Greenbook: http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/- Service Manuals/B21, B23 Engine 1975-85

To give you a rough idea of what you have to do, see below:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uEf7Wt0NhFc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I just installed an IPD turbo cam recently and once again it required all eight shims being replaced to get the valves to about 15-16 thousandths cold.
 
dl242gt said:
I just installed an IPD turbo cam recently and once again it required all eight shims being replaced to get the valves to about 15-16 thousandths cold.
Click to expand...

Good to know. A little nervous about tearing into the engine for the first time.
But I believe I have all the parts in hand outside of the IPD shims kit and their feeler gauges.

Fingers crossed I don't have one of those "swapped cam and TB - car won't start" threads....
 
Hi guys, TOF here.I'm older than dirt. Been tearing apart engines for years.
I've had four Volvos over the years. The first was a 59 544 in 1969. Then a 144 and 145 and now an 87 244. It is my first auto trans. I'm looking at towing a small trailer under 2500 lbs.
This my first time camming the b230. It looks simple enough.
I've tentatively decided on the T cam. The question is "Will it work ok with the 1987 ECM and injectors etc?"

Should I start my own thread or is here ok?
 
It will be perfectly fine with the stock computers.

Make sure to check your clearances after the install. They're *usually* still within spec on factory cam swaps, but it never hurts to check.
 
Texas Old Fart said:
Will do, thanks. Now to find the cam.
Click to expand...

Since you are working on a 240, your distributor is in the block. This means you can take the camshaft from any factory turbo 240, 740, or 940 and it is a direct swap in. Take the shims/buckets just to have a few extra laying around if needed.

Or post in the wanted section here. If you were local I'd give you a T cam, but your junkyards should have a few.
 
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