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Volvo 245 keeps overheating

T

thij

New member
Joined
Mar 12, 2024
Hey,

My volvo 245 2.1 from 1979 keeps overheating. My old thermostat was bad (stayed open). I tried a new one and it was overheating again. It seems like it had no flow from the coolant. I removed the valve from the old thermostat and installed it. So that the coolant can flow freely. Then it stayed cool. So i installed a diffrent new one again and it is overheating again. Any tips what it could be?

Thanks!
 
Some of the aftermarket thermostats are small enough so that they can be installed backwards, which means they will never open.
 
Also if you installed a new thermostat and did not orient the jiggle valve about the 12 o'clock position. There can be air trapped in the system. You can squeeze the hoses when cool to pump coolant around to get the air out. But first make sure the jiggle valve is in the correct position.
 
Also, with that vintage, be sure it is really overheating, and it isn't a gauge issue. The voltage stabilizers from that era are mechanical and can fail in a way to make the gauge read high. Example here
 
cleanflametrap said:
Also, with that vintage, be sure it is really overheating, and it isn't a gauge issue. The voltage stabilizers from that era are mechanical and can fail in a way to make the gauge read high. Example here
Click to expand...
I felt like mentioning this and then deleted my post. My 242's temp gauge would read inconsistent but not alarming with no thermostat, and then spike when I installed the thermostat while trying to diagnose the "overheating" which ended up being the voltage stabilizer. Make sure the radiator or upper coolant hose is warm.
 
I have been fighting overheating for a few years. Heater hose split and I bent the head. Replaced the head with another the had been surfaced.Temp gauge stays at 8 to 9 position but after shut down it starts thumping and picking coolant. Heat gun reads 180 at the rad. Even with a gutted stat nothing changes.
 
2 old for this said:
I have been fighting overheating for a few years. Heater hose split and I bent the head. Replaced the head with another the had been surfaced.Temp gauge stays at 8 to 9 position but after shut down it starts thumping and picking coolant. Heat gun reads 180 at the rad. Even with a gutted stat nothing changes.
Click to expand...
You and OP

Do you know your radiator is good?
 
I've changed the voltage regulator. Now the gauge is working. But my headgasket is leaking.
 
2 old for this said:
Fresh rebuilt 3 row. Even tried a different one
Click to expand...
compression leaking into the coolant?
have you tried bypassing the heater core to see if that is the culprit?
water pump not pushing enough flow?
Do you have a plastic belly pan and the proper scoop behind the air dam?

This is why I preach the 71c tstat from rockauto, green 75kpa cap, and a tropical fan clutch on every one of my cars. It compensates for other 40 year old parts not doing their job correctly. Id rather have a car running cool getting .25 mpg less and fouling spark plugs every other oil change instead of blowing up an engine.

Similar concept with the ipd intank pump upgrade that always makes the car run better because everything else is worn out.
 
2 old for this said:
I suspect the fan clutch is week. Electric fan is in route.
Click to expand...
a good way to test this without specialized tools is to drill your fan clutch, then put a bolt in it so it stays fixed. If your car stays cool then the clutch was the culprit.
If it still overheats you just fucked up a good fan.

-follow me for more shadetree tips
 
240 240 said:
If your car stays cool then the clutch was the culprit.
If it still overheats you just fucked up a good fan.
Click to expand...
Throw the suspected witch into the pond.
If she sinks and drowns, she's innocent, and not a witch.
If she floats, then she's a witch, and we burn her at the stake.
Win-win!
 
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