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The Boost Goose (T6 swapped 760)

sorry I meant an V50 electric PS pump...
I don't believe it does, however there is a guy that sells a Volvo power steering controller for ~$130 that has a GPS chip so that it is speed sensitive. Full power at low speeds and then tapers off at higher speeds.
 
I don't believe it does, however there is a guy that sells a Volvo power steering controller for ~$130 that has a GPS chip so that it is speed sensitive. Full power at low speeds and then tapers off at higher speeds.
Oh! That's a nice option! Thanks for the info! It looks like I would need the ECUMaster Black to be able to run my e-throttle but it's still WAY cheaper than the MaxxECU option.
 
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Here's a bit more detailed update post;

Scored an R sport wheel, did some restoration on it. Installed with a Sparco hub.
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Here it is installed, you can also see the MKM Motorsport shifter, it's a pretty nice piece. Works for BMW transmissions and M90s, bolts in.
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Engine installed with turbo and all wiring. Turbo stuff fits nice considering I eyeballed the layout before I ever took the redblock out. I did take some quick and dirty measurements on my brothers 960 (which is next to receive a T6 swap) to confirm, but it was all fabricated on an engine stand without any test fitting until I was already committed to this design.
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With all the air intake stuff. I'm running a vent from the PCV box all the way over by the air filter to a catch can, I'm going to have to revise this. Want to get something closer to the engine so the water vapor goes out through the filter rather than condensing so much in the line and the can. Was thinking of making an aluminum one that mounts over the engine on the strut brace. I have a carbon strut brace for a VW MkIII that will fit the 700 with very little modification.

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Tried to take some nice pictures of it but my phone was a potato at the time I took these. Got a nicer phone now but it's been super cold and shitty lately.

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We recently had a major cold snap, -40 degrees, C or F, so I had a chance to do some cold start tuning on the ECUmaster, I just kept starting it in lower and lower temps until it starts in -38 C. At that temperature I have a prime pulse of 15ms on 850cc injectors, and cranking pulse of 28ms. That's a lot of fuel. At hot idle it's running a pulsewidth of 1.1ms. (I'm not sure if that includes the dead time, I'd have to check).

I don't have pictures of the exhaust system, I kind of just got stuck in to it and started building and didn't stop until it was done. Forgot to take pictures. The exhaust is 3 inch, 304 stainless, everything after the downpipe I just migged with 308l wire, 75/25 gas mix and backpurged the pipe with argon. It's not the prettiest but it works. I used a Flowmaster 200 cell metal substrate high flow cat, a Magnaflow resonator and a Magnaflow muffler. You can hear how it sounds in the video a page or two back.

Next up is the front suspension. I am going to use BC coilovers with MKM motorsports camber/caster plates for BC coilovers, I've got a set of aluminum control arms from an earlier car for less unsprung wieght, I'll be converting the sway bar links to a ball joint style like on newer cars to eliminate deflection, as well as attaching the end link directly to the strut which should make it act like a bigger bar vs attaching it to the middle of the control arm. Also using energy suspension sway bar bushings. I'll have to make a new lower chassis brace or modify the one I made as the one I made before doesn't clear the 960 sump or the downpipe.

I'm STILL on the fence about what to do in the back. The stock 3.73 gears are not ideal for the ZF 320 box gear ratios;

Gear ratios
12345R
4.212.491.671.241.03.85

I have a collection of BMW 188mm diffs and have the right gear ratio, different cases and a clutch type LSD, but I don't know how I feel about having to hack up the sub frame to make it fit. My health hasn't been the best lately, still trying to figure that out, so I'm not too keen on more heavy fab work. At this point I'm leaning toward going with Tenaci/Bakaxel stuff to just build the IRS diff with a 3.15 gear set and their torsen 26 spline LSD, just because it will all bolt together and plop in without any modifications. In the meantime I have a 3.31 G80 from an early 960 that I'm going to stick in until I figure out what to do with the diff long term.
 
I'm going to re-use the big Yonaka intercooler I had on my 16V build. It's 26 x 12 x 4 I think. I threw away all the 960 spare rads I had! :(
 
How much will the 760 IRS take? Have you upgrade it for this power level? If you already explained this point, I missed it.
I haven't touched it. I guess I'll find out what it does. I was thinking of getting poly bushings and the BNE toe links.
 
Here is the shifter installed in the car



An overall shot of the dash, using an ancient Samsung tablet to display gauges from the Emu over Bluetooth.



A little project, I really like in my BMW and my minivan how they have little overhead LEDs that provide a bit of ambient light inside the car at night. I installed some amber LEDs in the screw holes of the sunroof motor cover. I just ground a hole in the side of each stanchion, fed the wires through, ran a fused wire up there that comes on with the lights, put the screws in and then pulled the LEDs in with the wire.




I also fitted a carbon fiber strut tower brace that was meant for a VW MKIII. I bought it in a clearance sale from Euro Sport Tuning because it kind of looked like it would maybe fit. It did with a bit of mangling.





Also got the water meth installed. Using a universal washer reservoir I got at a surplus store, a Snow Performance pump and Devil's Own nozzle, with a generic check valve. Pump is powered through a Hella solid state relay that can handle PWM and the pump speed is mapped through the EMU on its own RPM/MAP table. I have a float switch in the tank that cuts power to the boost solenoid when the tank is empty.



 
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I wonder if I could use the second fuel rail that came with the 2JZ intake plenum I installed on my T6 swap for meth injection.
Meth injection nozzles are very different from fuel injectors, they're 1/8npt and controlled by either the pump speed or a solenoid in the feed line.

You could machine bungs to weld or press/JB weld in to the injector holes that you could then thread 1/8npt nozzles in to, then you run lines to each nozzle.

https://www.methanol-injection.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25&product_id=53
 
I've got a solid street tune on the thing now that the roads are dry enough to get some grip, it's great. Off boost it's got enough torque that even with the 6 puck clutch it's okay in traffic. 4 cyls and even my 5 cyl Audi just don't drive like this. Feels similar to my E46. On boost is just wacky. I'm hitting 22psi, running 93 octane Shell V power and the water/meth at 50/50. It only gets traction in 3rd gear and only if I Roll in to it. The turbo hits hard. Right now I'm hitting 98% DC on my TCV, which is the max DC the ECUMaster will allow. I gotta go to a bigger wastegate spring.
On a closed course in Mexico on Saturday I walked away from a full bolt-ons '18 GT 5.0 with ease from a 50mph roll, we went from a dig and we were even until about 40mph when I got traction and pulled away. He said he dynoed at 440whp.
I can't wait to get more spring in the wastegate and get it on a dyno to give it more ignition timing. I'm running 12 degrees at full boost from 5500 up to 7000, I know it can take more but I am at the limit of what I can tune on the street safely.
The decision to go T6 over a 16vt or T5 is paying off. I don't think I would ever consider doing a 16vt or T5 for a RWD street car considering wreckers can hardly give away T6s and they plop in with largely OE parts.

I love Redblock Jesus, but Whiteblock Satan does that thing with his tongue....
 
I've got a solid street tune on the thing now that the roads are dry enough to get some grip, it's great. Off boost it's got enough torque that even with the 6 puck clutch it's okay in traffic. 4 cyls and even my 5 cyl Audi just don't drive like this. Feels similar to my E46. On boost is just wacky. I'm hitting 22psi, running 93 octane Shell V power and the water/meth at 50/50. It only gets traction in 3rd gear and only if I Roll in to it. The turbo hits hard. Right now I'm hitting 98% DC on my TCV, which is the max DC the ECUMaster will allow. I gotta go to a bigger wastegate spring.
On a closed course in Mexico on Saturday I walked away from a full bolt-ons '18 GT 5.0 with ease from a 50mph roll, we went from a dig and we were even until about 40mph when I got traction and pulled away. He said he dynoed at 440whp.
I can't wait to get more spring in the wastegate and get it on a dyno to give it more ignition timing. I'm running 12 degrees at full boost from 5500 up to 7000, I know it can take more but I am at the limit of what I can tune on the street safely.
The decision to go T6 over a 16vt or T5 is paying off. I don't think I would ever consider doing a 16vt or T5 for a RWD street car considering wreckers can hardly give away T6s and they plop in with largely OE parts.

I love Redblock Jesus, but Whiteblock Satan does that thing with his tongue....
Wow that sounds promising! Do you have some vids of this thing running? I have a local friend who should do the first start on his T6 swapped 960 very soon. I asked him to tell me when he's ready so that I can be physically present. This and your build should give me some much needed motivation to work a little more on my project!
 
Wow that sounds promising! Do you have some vids of this thing running? I have a local friend who should do the first start on his T6 swapped 960 very soon. I asked him to tell me when he's ready so that I can be physically present. This and your build should give me some much needed motivation to work a little more on my project!
This is at 10psi (wastegate pressure)
 
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