tremec t5 resonance

[culberro]

Gonna crosspost from another thread I have:

Basically everything that could be wrong with my setup was wrong and resulted in horrible vibrations.

- T5 tailshaft bushing is worn out (leaking oil from the seal and introducing vibrations)

- modified driveshaft was out of balance

- transmission is probably still not in proper alignment

- pinion is pointed downwards

And on top of that I had the spicer center support which is super hard and was transmitting all of that into the cabin very nicely. I'm trying to power through here. It's been a bit discouraging also because The transmission keeps popping out of 5th gear after you get on and off the throttle a few times. You can see it move backwards each time I lift off the throttle. I'm going to try driving it without the boots (boot around the shifter assembly and the interior shift lever boot) and see if that's still happening.

The shift detents in a t5 are not the best. You can use a drill and make the detent plate have deeper detents, shim the detent spring, or find a stiffer spring on McMaster.

The shift boot pulling the trans out of 5th is a real deal issue. Lots of fiddling with that to get it sorted.

 

[sloopy]

Any chance it could be a problem with the 5th gear synchronizer spring and inserts? I'd just like to eliminate the idea that I need to disassemble the transmission (im assuming/hoping that I can remove the offset lever with the transmission in the car). 5th is the only gear which the transmission pops out of.

 

[culberro]

Any chance it could be a problem with the 5th gear synchronizer spring and inserts? I'd just like to eliminate the idea that I need to disassemble the transmission (im assuming/hoping that I can remove the offset lever with the transmission in the car). 5th is the only gear which the transmission pops out of.

Maybe, but doubtful. Of the 3 T5s I’ve installed, the 5th gear popping out was solved my opening up the shift stops, messing with the boot, or adding bigger detents/spring force on a super beat up one.

 

[sloopy]

Ok. I don't have the shift stops installed so no issue there. I have a boot around the shifter mechanism itself plus the volvo interior boot around the lever. I think both are potentially an issue here so I'm going to address that. If I'm able to get the offset lever off, I'm going to try to do something about the spring. Any recommendations on a specific spring? I'm not sure I have a good way to measure the spring stiffness besides pushing it against my mini scale and trying to measuring the length that I'm compressing it.

 

[culberro]

Ok. I don't have the shift stops installed so no issue there. I have a boot around the shifter mechanism itself plus the volvo interior boot around the lever. I think both are potentially an issue here so I'm going to address that. If I'm able to get the offset lever off, I'm going to try to do something about the spring. Any recommendations on a specific spring? I'm not sure I have a good way to measure the spring stiffness besides pushing it against my mini scale and trying to measuring the length that I'm compressing it.

I’ll see if I have time today to get some spring specs or spacer specs.

Most of the time the time I’ve had issues with the Volvo boot being too low and bunching up, which is sort of counterintuitive as you’d think the boot being higher it would be more likely to pop it out of gear.

The little rubber shifter boots aren’t adding a ton of force down near the pivot.

 

[sloopy]

Thanks. Yeah you're right. And the volvo boot is definitely bunching up because my shift lever is bent at the base and the boot sits right below the bend all smooshed up. It seems weird that it has never popped out of third gear though.

 

[culberro]

Thanks. Yeah you're right. And the volvo boot is definitely bunching up because my shift lever is bent at the base and the boot sits right below the bend all smooshed up. It seems weird that it has never popped out of third gear though.

The 5th gear slider, keys, and spring are not as firm as 1-4.
The boot below the bend is probably what's causing your issue.

 

[sloopy]

Thank you Robert. That's making me feel a lot better. I really have been getting overwhelmed with these issues.

 

[sloopy]

Should I be worrying about alignment of the input shaft? I saw a thread where that was the guy's issue. And I remember with my deeworks adapter that the sleeve was not completely concentric with the input shaft. I assembled the trans and bellhousing before installing and besides that it took a lot of fiddling, the transmission eventually just popped in.

 

[culberro]

Should I be worrying about alignment of the input shaft? I saw a thread where that was the guy's issue. And I remember with my deeworks adapter that the sleeve was not completely concentric with the input shaft. I assembled the trans and bellhousing before installing and besides that it took a lot of fiddling, the transmission eventually just popped in.

The input shaft wobbles around a bit, but you should make sure it’s all concentric.
This is more of an issue with the BNE plates as the bellhousing is bored bigger and a shop could do it incorrectly.

 

[blkaplan]

The input shaft wobbles around a bit, but you should make sure it’s all concentric.
This is more of an issue with the BNE plates as the bellhousing is bored bigger and a shop could do it incorrectly.

It can be done wrong.

Its not so difficult to inspect with a dial indicator.

 

[culberro]

It can be done wrong.

Its not so difficult to inspect with a dial indicator.

Exactly, and even OE bellhousings aren’t exactly aligned perfectly either.

A mag base and a dial indicator should be in everyone’s toolbox, and even $35 cheap kits will work just fine.

From a machining side if its done on a manual mill, it’s easy to have the knee wobble/move out of position if the table is dropped to get a boring bar into the spindle when swapping out the indicator. But if you know your machine is chooched and know how to set it up, you can still have a dead nuts hole.

 

[sloopy]

btw i got silicone all up in the shift shaft that goes from the shift box to the gear box when installing my shifter last night. shifter feels good, but i hope the transmission doesnt oil the shift box through that shaft because not much oil is gonna get through that.

 

[towerymt]

I use a shift boot from another car, probably some mustang, because it's super thin. The Volvo boot is quite thick and pulls too much on the shift lever. The old M46 boots seemed to be even stiffer than the later M47 boots.

 

[blkaplan]

Exactly, and even OE bellhousings aren’t exactly aligned perfectly either.

I have seen that. The hole position floats a little bit, I always just base the center from the original machining, if it was good enough for volvo its probably fine.

Hard to know what exactly the "blue print" dowel pin spacing and center would be

 

[sloopy]

ai bot post?

 

[towerymt]

ai bot post?

Looks that way. Removed. And Banned.

Carry on.