good work on getting that brace to clear,

I figured you would either be sectioning the intake manifold or doing something of the sort.

One thing I would recommend is making a cap or gusset to blend between the sheet metal bar that you welded up and the top of the tubing.

Ditto on the gusset suggestion - was typing away on the previous page, and then saw Ben's comment....

Haha. Right on, proving them all wrong! Love following the progress on your build!

Good advice. Had about a half hour at home last night and messed with these gussets a little bit. I also move the upper brace up 1/4", it was just a little close for comfort before.

I like this. I think I am going to incorporate a brace right into the upper strut tower bar for the brake booster instead of the bolt on version.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ps06dayb1g.jpg

Can you show the brace from behind? Does the intake manifold extend past the main bar plate? If it doesn't you could box it in from behind to make it like angle iron.

I'd make room for the brake booster brace. It is as good as the strut brace itself, if not better.

Beautiful... I'm just going to set all my stuff on fire as it so inferior to this build. Good work, keep that progress rolling!

Looks good. Everyone always says it's not going to fit. If a 4 valve Ford fits with a Cobra intake, anything can fit.

The intake extends past the strut tower, I thought about that.


This is just for mock up. I will have the booster brake, but I want the mount welded to the strut tower, not the tube clamp that it comes with. I am picky I know.

We all start somewhere!!! Been doing this a long time and I have had a lot of great people to learn from along the way. I like the learning part of building stuff.

Sean

Too slow...

^^^ what he said.

That's the reason the internet drools over your cars, so there's that too.

Haha....Thanks man!!!

Appreciate the props Harald!!

Not sure its the finished product but its close, will have two bolts to a tab welded to the bottom of the strut tower on the front tab and the same on the rear tab.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...psvodom8qf.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...psdnexn7h7.jpg

I gotta get some fuel system **** ordered up for this turd.

In tank Holley 450 with a hydramat is what I am thinking. Guys are having no issues running these things on -6 lines. Regulator will be near the tank. Thoughts?

Sean

Oh snap, the flared holes make it extra baller.

What's the model year & trim level Mustang that donates its master cylinder to all of these 240s? I'm looking into this myself now...

-6 would work but -8 would be better. Don't really want to mess with the fuel to much, Overkill is the answer in that department.

Your master cyl brace looks good.

Id prefer triangles instead of holes but you know...

I think doing it the way you are doing it is a bit cleaner and for a build like this its worth while.

The tube gussets on the main bar look great!

I used to feel that way as well, but in my research I have found that is not always the case.

The fuel rails on the factory LSA are only 5/16" as well as the quick disconnect for the fuel rail, the factory fuel pump is the same size. The fuel lines on the new ZR1 with the 750hp LT4 I believe are -6 as well.

Reading up on some gen 5 camaro forums guys are running up near 4 digit numbers on -6 lines.

I am more curious on feedback on the hydramat. I have heard awesome things about it being used in everything from road race cars to KOH rigs. I have a number of people I know running it and swear by it.

Thanks,

Sean

I didnt even think about that. Inside holes are hard for me to cut and make look perfect, remember I have very limited tooling at home, I do most of this with a small portaband, drill press and a crappy press I got for free.

I do like your idea though and I know you like triangles =)

Sean

If you want to collaborate, I can send you some laser cut stuff that's precisely cut.

Ill just need some templates.

It's like a sn95 gt master cylinder, Im pretty positive that's what i have on my car

Killer build so far, excited to see the rest of it come together. :)

Thanks man, me too =)

Ben, totally appreciate the offer, its a bolt in item so if I want to redo with some cool CNC stuff later I can. I am pretty impatient =)

So, one thing I am working on is my TIG welding. I have had no official classes on it, no lessons at all, just been tinkering with it off and on for a few month. I think I suck but wanted to try it out on this piece. I should have just migged it together hind sight but it will work and not fall apart.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...pslcjbsdu4.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5byeqj6w.jpg

This will get powder coated and I am thinking of doing it with the tightest wrinkle black finish I can, my other idea is a satin metallic brown, interior will be brown, centers of the wheels is likely going to be the same flat metallic brown.

What say you Turbobrickers??

Sean

Brown sounds good. Sure nice seeing something different now and then.
Just curious is there a matching brace like the one on the brake master?
And overkill is always good but is that brace needed with that stout strut brace?

Love the build so far, thanks for taking us with you!

What do you mean a matching brace on the brake master? Do you mean on the other side of the car? If so then no.

The brace is there to support the booster and master cylinder from movement. It was amazing how much that booster and master could move before the brace was installed. I have heard increased pedal feel is the best byproduct of the master cylinder brace.

Thanks for the props!!!

I am thinking more and more about the brown color for the upper strut tower and a bunch of little odds and ends.

Sean

We offer these braces in a coffee brown, They look awesome in a beige engine bay :)

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1451332890

You can always smooth out those TIG welds before you powder coat it and it will look ok.