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B200ft from a 700 to a 245

juss

New member
Joined
Sep 3, 2018
Location
Estonia, Tallinn
It might be a stupid question. But two months ago i got a offer from a friend for a b200ft with wiring and tranny.
My own car (1978 245) is currently using a B21A, which is crappy as hell, poor performance and that automatic gearbox is not helping matters.

I was contemplating that 7 series wiring. Is it possible to just use the engine loom and ecu and ezk connectors for it to work? Maybe somebody has done similiar stuff and can help?

Engine currently is torn down, new seals, head resurfacing, main bearings etc. so it should run alright.

Would really appreciate the help
 
You will need the 240 distributor and shaft that drives it.
The gearbox does not have the drive to run your speedo

You can spend hours/days/weeks messing with the 7 series loom picking it out or you can buy a new plug and play loom to use the ECU's
 
As mentioned above. It will be much easier to get a B230F LH2.4 wiring loom from a 240 and use that for the ecu and icu. The other LH2.4 components on the engine like the air mass sensor and coolant temperature are the same. I think you remove the full throttle wire from the ecu connector if I recall correctly as the turbo ecu doesn't use the full throttle swtich like the n/a car does. That is why a factory built 240 with LH2.4 goes from n/a to turbo so easy.

I just helped with a LH2.4 swap of a 89 B230F into a 77 244. It was only a few wires needed to make it run. The only other issue is if you want to do the work to use the electronic speedo to provide a vss signal to the ecu. We didn't and the high idle isn't a bad issue if you know what's going on.
 
You will need the 240 distributor and shaft that drives it.
The gearbox does not have the drive to run your speedo

You can spend hours/days/weeks messing with the 7 series loom picking it out or you can buy a new plug and play loom to use the ECU's

Cant i use the b200ft dizzy when i modify the firewall?
About the speedo i know, and really not worried about that.
 
Just use the dizzy and shaft from your 240 engine.

Don't hack the 240 and then make it an engine out job to service the ignition system

The other issue with the M46 is the brackets for the gear lever do not fit the 240, you will eitehr have to find teh bits off a 240 gearbox or shorten them
 
Actually i belive the transmission is a M47, but im not that sure. I should post a picture of it.
The shaft fits, i know, but will the distributor from an carburated car work on a LH?:oops:
 
On an LH 2.4 system, the distributor is only there to route the spark to the correct cylinder, the ECU does all the rest (timing, ignition advance, etc) based on the flywheel sensor.

So there are sensors in an older distributor that will not be used.
 
It will be a lot easier if you get an ?89+ 240 parts car. You will also need the fuel tank, filler neck, fuel pump, brackets, wiring etc which is not present on your ?78. I did this to a ?76 and it was a pretty big project.
 
I have given it some thought about the original harness and ECU's and i might have come to a solution. It wont be the cheapest and surely not easier as converting the original wiring, but it will give me the opportunity to support any modifications as i go further with this car :)
In april im visiting my sister in the states and as im not in a hurry with this car im going with megasquirt possibly. And because it is cheaper there, im going to order it to my sister's house :D
But just to give an update. I painted the engine block and oilpan, the head is rebuilt and everything is almost ready to be put back together. As this is my first time rebuilding a engine, im taking my time.
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Looking good. Make sure you contact Linuxman51 (kenny) for megasquirt support.

Also the block mount distributor cap and rotor tune up parts are less than half the cost of the head mount distributor stuff. It will be easy to get an LH2.4 distributor and intermediate shaft here in the US if you don't find that stuff. Just ship it back home and it'll be waiting for you. Let us know in off topic when you will be here and you can probably meet up with some folks.
 
Havent had time to post anything for awhile, but the engine is mostly complete and turns over by hand and everything feels as it should. As right now i have been in the states for almost a week now and im thinking i should visit a parts store, i need a fuel pump, inlet air temp sensor and a coolant temp sensor, megasquirt works well with gm stuff and i figured these could be cheaper here. If anybody resides in New Hampshire, exeter area im more than available for a chat, but here i dont have a car...
When i get back home, im going to pull the old engine, do some work under the hood with the wiring and a little bit of cosmetics then the new engine will drop in.
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Hi. Long time no see. Alots of time has passed but it does not mean that i haven't been busy with this turd of a car :D
As of this moment the car runs, but i have to confirm timing, find a suitable driveshaft, put in new slave and master cylinders for the clutch and i have to fab the shifter unit.
After that is all the small stuff and the tune (Which is not small by all means :wtf:)
I'll let the pictures do the talking. It has been a real learning curve to say the least - my first car where all the work has been done by me, so don't judge the fab work i have done. :)

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Some more progress as of today.
On friday i tried to set timing in tunerstudio, but i do not know what's wrong, couldn't get it at exactly zero. Maybe the pulley has slipped or the fact that the flywheel might be in the wrong position did not help also. But i got it close enough that the engine idles better than it did before. Will look into that later.
But some time back i tried searching for a driveshaft that would fit in just as is, but that did not work out. Not much people here who deal with these old cars. So i had a M47 driveshaft out of a 700 and i had it cut to lenght, welded and balanced plus they replaced the carrier bearing and made the universal joints greaseable.
Also on friday i started making the gear linkage support because the 700 one was way too long.
Tomorrow i'll try to get the clutch line made and after that maybe just maybe i wont have to push it in to the shop anymore.:lol:
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Finally i got to drive this thing. So happy. :-P
So a local hydraulic shop made me a braided clutch line, worked out really nice and got the air out quite quickly. The only thing is that if i don't press the clutch pedal the car jolts a little, even in neutral. Go figure.
After getting the first taste, i had some more motivation to start buttoning up the rest.
Bought some silicone couplers for the intercooler piping, welded the IAT bung into the pipe which goes from the intercooler to the intake manifold - should be alright there.
I Have one question about the IAC valve - one end goes to the intake manifold, but where i should run the other end?

Also started putting together the interior, don't have any pictures from that, but after i get my gauges (trying to find some which would look like older style ones) i will make some.
And a couple of pictures and one small rev up video to hear the sound :)

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MAs5DEm03A
 
Maybe some kind person can move this thread to the projects & restorations?

Okay long time no see. But as of yesterday this car has a fresh national inspection so i can legally drive without getting fined. I did some adjusting on tunerstudio, used the wideband as a reference at idle and at 2000 rpm to get it as close as to 14.7 afr. And it passed the smog test (allowed CO up to 4,5% and it purred out 3,47%). I was totally surprised by that. :lol:
But it does have some issues also.
First thing is most surely related to IAC valve tuning/settings, because when the car is warm it idles at 1600 rpm, and if i unplug the valve, it has normal idle at 900rpm. Should look into that.
Other problem which might be a little bit bigger is that after deceleration if i blip the throttle it throws out blue smoke. :omg: I am not really sure if the piston rings are fully worked in, or if it has something to do with the turbo. To check i have to remove the turbo and see if there is oil in the manifold or in the hot side of the turbo. At idle, cruising and in boost it does not smoke at all.

Until i have the energy to deal with tearing the turbo off i'm just going to enjoy it.
Stay safe and healthy guys!

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