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-   -   A big valve 8valve is better than a 16valve head for 99% of tbricks (https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356217)

Fred Gwynne 08-19-2020 01:49 PM

Isn't there a turbobricks member who has offered 8v head modifications at a very good price? You mail him your head, he machines/modifies it as needed and then sends it back to you?

RvolvoR 08-19-2020 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harlard (Post 6106734)
I have nowhere near close to 8k on this engine. Let's feed it 30 PSI and E85 and see what happens.

I said $8 as in that going 16v was real cheap for you to do...and my old ****box made 350whp on 19psi...

Harlard 08-19-2020 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RvolvoR (Post 6106745)
I said $8 as in that going 16v was real cheap for you to do...and my old ****box made 350whp on 19psi...

And E85.

RvolvoR 08-19-2020 01:53 PM

Also, I bet if you add up costs...you are at least $6-8k in it...

RvolvoR 08-19-2020 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harlard (Post 6106746)
And E85.

k.

It made 295whp on pump.

Stiggy Pop 08-19-2020 02:14 PM

If I add up all iterations of my engine to it's current draft, pull in all those nitty gritty parts we forget about (watch that AN hose column add up)... now remember it's my first engine build and I didn't know what I was doing so I took the "spare no expense" route... easily clearing $15k here. Not including the computer or wiring to run it, or anything to transmit the power.

What do I win? Hey, at least it's been reliable. Generally I don't really care what anything costs on the car, it all ends up being different kinds of fun. Hell I looked pretty hard at a 3.6l F360 pullout drop another $15k for 400hp, no torque just for the noise it makes? I did get control of myself on that one..

https://media.tenor.com/images/3d55e...6b04/tenor.gif

2manyturbos 08-19-2020 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 6106621)
C6 Z is the 505hp LS7.

LS engines have character like redblock variations too. My dad's had a fleet. 6.2 in the Denali that feels like a big truck motor. Had a C5 Z with the LS6. Just sold his C6 Z with the LS7 (obvious favorite). Likely bringing home next week a CTS-V wag with the LS...A? Right? will be the first charged one.

I realized I reversed those two digits at about midnight last night, 550 vs. 505. I wasn't going to log back in and correct it. I knew someone else would.

Stiggy Pop 08-19-2020 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos (Post 6106760)
I realized I reversed those two digits at about midnight last night, 550 vs. 505. I wasn't going to log back in and correct it. I knew someone else would.

I had your back! :-P

Harlard 08-19-2020 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 6106756)
If I add up all iterations of my engine to it's current draft, pull in all those nitty gritty parts we forget about (watch that AN hose column add up)... now remember it's my first engine build and I didn't know what I was doing so I took the "spare no expense" route... easily clearing $15k here. Not including the computer or wiring to run it, or anything to transmit the power.

What do I win? Hey, at least it's been reliable. Generally I don't really care what anything costs on the car, it all ends up being different kinds of fun. Hell I looked pretty hard at a 3.6l F360 pullout drop another $15k for 400hp, no torque just for the noise it makes? I did get control of myself on that one..

https://media.tenor.com/images/3d55e...6b04/tenor.gif

We were all having fun until Asher showed up :-P

90volvo 08-19-2020 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred Gwynne (Post 6106742)
Isn't there a turbobricks member who has offered 8v head modifications at a very good price? You mail him your head, he machines/modifies it as needed and then sends it back to you?

yelp culberro, he does good work and works with Volvo stuff alot.

Fred Gwynne 08-19-2020 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90volvo (Post 6106879)
yelp culberro, he does good work and works with Volvo stuff alot.

Much appreciated.

89-240gl+t 08-19-2020 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred Gwynne (Post 6106883)
Much appreciated.

he's currently working on my head, super nice guy and works with you on what he thinks best fits your goals.

90volvo 08-20-2020 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89-240gl+t (Post 6106906)
he's currently working on my head, super nice guy and works with you on what he thinks best fits your goals.

For sure, he redone a 16v head and is currently working on 8v head. He looks out for you and finds good prices on parts. I donít trust my local machine shops, you mention Volvo they almost goes in seizures.

Markos Simopoulos 08-20-2020 02:22 AM

it all depends on what tools you have, skills you have, and what car its going in, everyone says 16v is more expensive but if you actually make things on your own then the price is really the same. So it seems that what your saying is 8v is better because its easier, if thats the case then 93+ b234f is the best option.

culberro 08-20-2020 11:22 AM

Everyone wants to do a 16v swap in a 240 until they realize it’s difficult to install the head with the block in the car. Hammer hammer hammer, or remove ALL of the studs for the upper section.

JohnMc 08-20-2020 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by culberro (Post 6107013)
Everyone wants to do a 16v swap in a 240 until they realize it’s difficult to install the head with the block in the car. Hammer hammer hammer, or remove ALL of the studs for the upper section.

Yeah, I always did the studs approach. Which is tedious. There are a lot of studs. You don't have to remove *all* of them, but you have to remove a LOT of them.

Then you have to use a $$ tube of glue to stick that cam carrier onto the head. I tried using the cheaper stuff from IPD once, even with immaculate cleaning and prep (bone dry, cleaned with rubbing alcohol) it leaked. I never had leaks with the OEM pink stuff though.

And unless you go COP, you need a Saab crab-cap. And you can't take the distributor out with the head on.

Dunno, plenty of extra hassles, I think it was worth it. With a light flywheel and the 16V torque curve, made it feel like less of a tractor engine.

oldschoolvolvo 08-20-2020 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by culberro (Post 6107013)
Everyone wants to do a 16v swap in a 240 until they realize it’s difficult to install the head with the block in the car. Hammer hammer hammer, or remove ALL of the studs for the upper section.

:rofl: yea and lower the subframe a bit to get the cam carrier on

JohnMc 08-20-2020 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo (Post 6107033)
:rofl: yea and lower the subframe a bit to get the cam carrier on

I think that would be an 'or'? I never lowered the subframe on mine. And I had the head off multiple times (ahem) with the motor in the car.

I never installed the motor with the trans attached, I've heard that doesn't work very well. Taller bulkier head and the firewall vs. the oil pan and the cross-member. I had a T5 trans so I just pulled that off (4 bolts), installed the motor, stuck the trans on.

Probably more significant that you pretty much need custom manifolds to put a turbo on a 16V in a 240.

Stiggy Pop 08-20-2020 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc (Post 6107026)
And you can't take the distributor out with the head on

oof

JohnMc 08-20-2020 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop (Post 6107038)
Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc (Post 6107026)
And you can't take the distributor out with the head on

oof

Iinorite? Total deal breaker! I like to take my dist out to polish it every once in a while. Having to pull the motor to pull the head to pull the dist - not gonna work!

:-P

Harlard 08-20-2020 12:36 PM

RE cam box studs

This thing makes the job a cinch. Hand tools only, or else.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/83LPsPi_cSQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

JohnMc 08-20-2020 12:58 PM

Not bad. I always just used two nuts. Take the flanged nut off, reverse it. Put another nut on. Snug tight. Take stuff off using the bottom nut.

The above gizmo would certainly be nicer.

Or just hammer that one seam on the firewall flat. Probably a lot easier. Don't know why I never did that. It would have take a couple of minutes, tops. I guess now I can say I still have a FACTORY OEM firewall seam alignment. Might raise my concourse score up a tenth of a point or so.

culberro 08-20-2020 01:05 PM

I pull the studs using a M6 or M8 coupling nut and bolt in from the top to jam it all together. Similar to poly lock rocker stud nuts.

On the rally car I cut the firewall seam, tacked it back together, and then painted it. I did think about hammering it though :)

Harlard did give me a spare set of those nifty stud pullers, and they do work well. Sometimes they smash the threads flat on really stubborn studs, so there's that.

Harlard 08-20-2020 02:05 PM

They will smash threads on studs that jammed nuts couldn't pull anyway. Pick your poison :twocents:

Saves me lots of aggravation on cam boxes. As for the seam...that is staying :cameron:

dl242gt 08-20-2020 02:40 PM

I think it is Yoshifab that machines a cut down distributor for the 16v setup. That way you can remove the distributor and use the crab cap for best clearance.


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