I was going to wait until I totally finished my clutch project to post, but oh well.

I picked up a Yoshifab billet flywheel kit that someone didn't use. Hopefully it doesn't slip anytime soon. I also decided to convert to a hydraulic clutch because that's what Mike K does and I want to be just like him (and I wanted to lighten my pedal a bit).

So I extended my pedal, put a stop in, and made a new master cylinder arm:

https://i.imgur.com/HCAboZfl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pPdSSSBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZupvQoOl.jpg

I made a center lengthening piece and two covers. If anyone wants the dxfs to make their own pedal longer, I'd be happy to share them.

However, when I put my new pedal in the box, it didn't line up with the brake pedal because of my launch control switch. I had to machine the stock Volvo bracket and move the switch back a bit. It now lines up fine.

https://i.imgur.com/NXvrR3ml.jpg

The hydraulic throw out bearing I wanted to use didn't work with the stock M46 bellhousing because there was no place for it to sit flat, so I converted to a Kaplhenke adapter plate and used a buddy's mill to machine my bellhousing. Because Ben designed a good part, the stock hydro fork pivot point is still there.

https://i.imgur.com/s4Vd6cnl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mU5yZ6Gl.jpg

However, the Kaplhenke adapter and Deeworks adapters put the trans at a little bit different angle, so I needed to make a new crossmember. It's just a plate with slots welded to the stock crossmember. I didn't take pictures because I put the plate on a bit crooked and that bugs me. I'll have to redo it again when I get my hands on another crossmember.

I also took my trans apart and put in brass shift fork pads, a brass shift bushing, a billet counter gear bearing retainer, tailshaft bushing and tailshaft seal. I also re shimmed the input shaft. Hopefully with all that, it doesn't pop out of second gear on hard downshifts.

So with the clutch and trans in, it looks like this:

https://i.imgur.com/D2C6B9wl.jpg

I just need to wait for my crossmember to get back from powdercoat, figure out the clutch line, bleed it, fill the trans, and put the exhaust back in for it to drive again.

I also got some other parts powdercoated to look more OEM:

https://i.imgur.com/c5a012Dl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/L9OqVGUl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/guxcgK2l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/skE0iZxl.jpg

Looks good! Where/what does the bolt head of your clutch pedal stop contact?

It hits the back of the pedal box. I didn't make a bracket like Mike did. I've actuated the pedal a bunch and haven't noticed any flexing, and I don't mind the long bolt, so I think it'll be ok.

I spy E36 parts...

What can I say? BMW makes a very convenient power distribution block with a remote jumper terminal.

The hydro swap definitely got a little more involved for you, but it's worthwhile. Hopefully it all works out smoothly, mines been trouble free.

Powder coat is always a nice finishing touch

https://i.imgur.com/zmtU1s2l.jpg

I got everything installed and tried bleeding it, but had some trouble. I first tried it like the manual instructs, by pushing the pedal. That seemed to get rid of the air, but didn't cause the bearing to move toward the clutch. I then used my power bleeder and setthe pressure to 20 psi. Again it bled fine but the piston didn't move at all. Any hydraulic throw out bearing guys have insight to what my problem could be? Could my bearing be defective?

I just power bled mine. Does the clutch feel fine to you?

I'll tell you this, that wilwood master will not work with a hydro bearing, I had to switch to a 11/16 bore master for it to even attempt to work. Also did you shim the bearing properly?

Nice work.

What are the two lines going to a pressure switch(?) in this pic?
https://i.imgur.com/L9OqVGUl.jpg

I'm about 1,200 miles on a .70" master and the same Tilton bearing without a problem. I've got the .63" on the shelf as I thought I'd try to get more pedal throw, but haven't tried it. If the bearing isn't even picking up the free space to the fingers it's got nothing to do with the size of the master.

The bearing isn't shimmed there's a sleeve that threads in and out to set the bearing clearance to the PP.

FYI the window in the bell housing is so big we were able to check bearing clearance with the whole thing assembled.

It doesn't actuate. The bearing doesn't extend.

I set up the bearing properly. I didn't measure, but I'm sure it was the recommended 0.125" away from the fingers in the rest state. Also, Tilton recommends a 0.70" bore master for a 10.5-11" clutch with a master of stroke 1.4".

Those are my fuel return lines and that's an ethanol content sensor for flex fuel.

I tried both a 0.625" bore and the 0.7" bore and neither moved the hydraulic bearing. I think I'll call Tilton today and see what they think.

Just a gravity bleed got mine 95% of the way there. After that I just did a pedal bleed following Tilton's recommended procedure.

That said, I'm using a Volvo 260 master with my Tilton release bearing.

Pretty sure the 260 is .75" bore and 1" stroke? Pretty similar.

Can't see pics at work, not to insult you but the bearing is positioned with the bleed line on top right? Just can't think of a good reason the piston wouldn't move if it's truly bled out and you're actuating the master.

:twocents:
I noticed that the clutch master tab you welded to the pedal is angled towards the driver quite a bit vs inline with the pedal arm. Are you sure that the clutch master piston is moving properly during the pedal stroke?

(I assume that the tab is at that angle due to the piston rod length, but I'll ask anyway)

Yep, bleed line is the top one. I didn't feel any leaks in the bellhousing either. I haven't seen the piston move at all.

You're right. It's angled toward the driver due to the length of the piston rod. But even if that was a problem, I think the piston should still move when I use my power bleeder.

Just called Summit. They're shipping me a new throwout bearing today and will send UPS to pick the bad one up on Monday. Great customer service. They're also in Nevada, so shipping is going only be a day or two.

Also, I've attached a folder containing the solidworks part files and .DXFs of my pedal extension parts.

You need to cut one of these:
https://i.imgur.com/OHTJ47zl.png

Two of these:
https://i.imgur.com/Ve5ovkpl.png

One of these:
https://i.imgur.com/xiUxmgnl.png

One thing to note is that master cylinder arm I made works with the uncut length Wilwood master cylinder rod and this clevis. I also undersized the hole (it's 8 mm) that the clevis pin goes through so you may or may not have to drill it to size.

the fact that you have this minimal space here and seem to feel okay about it is comforting to me.

That's ALOT of space quin

Clears once it's going to clear twice..

The engine doesn't move forward and the radiator doesn't move back, so there's no problem.

Hydro bearing is bunk time to ls swap it herp a derp a durrrrrrrrrrrrr - turbobricks

That clearance in my car is about 1/2" and it's totally fine.

i guess i'm new to this 'having no clearance anywhere' game.

Is there any sort of "bench bleeding" the clutch MC that's required a la a new brake MC -- could something like that be an issue? Just seems unlikely to me to be a bad hyd TOB right out of the box.