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9 series strut mounts redrilling for -1* camber 2011-2021 bump

DET17

Reformed SAABaholic
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Location
NW Georgia
or thereabouts. Many an old thread here about "the camber mod", etc. etc. Well I've got the front suspension out of the "cheap thrills" 944, and want this increased camber before wrapping up the front end.

Here are the stocker mounts as found:

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Knocked out the front studs, rotated each side inboard until contact reached with strut towers (rear stud/nut "just snug):

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I marked with sharpie the location of the relocated front stud for this max. negative camber location (without trimming the ID of the strut housing, which I prefer to leave stock):

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My scale says they both will take a maximum of 24~25mm. I know several old threads claimed around 22mm. Sound about right? Car has not been hit in the front end, completely stock 92 944. Last, found a couple posts from Janspeed (Euro guy) who moved both studs in parallel around 14~16mm, and also trimmed strut tower. Anyone ever measure for both to see if the dual stud offset gave more - camber? I was not planning to fit check with the IPD sport springs, as the OD is smaller than the strut housing, so I can't (yet) imagine how the springs will rub if the upper housing fits. I understand the IPD lowered height will benefit the - camber just a bit as well. Whatdayathink?
 
Love the pictorials. Not sure if the old threads are in articles or not (search for 'camber' came up negative [edit: omg I'm sorry]), but this seems worthy, maybe with a bit more write-up (in case the pics went down?)

Why were there 2 marks on the driver side? Looks like the inner one is an 'oops'?
 
Why were there 2 marks on the driver side? Looks like the inner one is an 'oops'?

The factory strut towers are slotted fore & aft.....I marked both possible front stud locations, one with the strut plate slid aft (more + caster) and one with strut plate slid forward (more negative camber). For some reason, there was a difference in the transferred holes, between the pass. & driver sides....it's tough to mark it and look up the strut tower (for interference) simultaneously! At any rate, I'm after - camber to provide "grip" and reduce the miserable tire wear issues with this front suspension.

Any lost caster, of course recovered with "the caster mod" :rofl:

No one tried the "Euro camber mod", both studs offset in parallel?
 
I did this too, took like 10 mins including jacking up each side separately. used the same body hole and just drilled the tophat, so a tower brace would still be useable.

5 minutes anybody? Somebody?

OK, fit checking again tonight to make sure the strut mount wasn't "riding up the radius" with 24~25mm offset. Snugged the rear nuts, slid the strut mounts inboard with care that they stayed in flat contact with the strut tower surface, then scribed them both; now it appears that 23mm is closer to the max. offset. (I think Billy from Knox Motorsports said he moved his 22mm). Will drill & press the original studs back in at a buddy's machine shop tomorrow to retain the press-in feature for top side removal.

For grins, I did knock both studs out of the drivers side, and fit checked the "Euro dual offset". Without grinding the strut tower ID hole, it seems you can barely offset BOTH holes around 10mm, or one stud diameter. I don't want holes adjacent to holes, so I'll use the front offset at 23mm. Reinstall the camber offset strut mounts, new SKF bearings, then the IPD sport springs, and last struts fitted with Bils HD's. I'll snap a couple pics looking "from the strut" to show the mounts maxed against the inboard tower for TurboBricks posterity.
 
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I see the reference to 10mm offset and 23mm offset based on either moving both holes parallel, or rotating just the front hole. Are there any other pluses or minuses to the two different methods?
 
Moving just the Frontbolt is an official Volvo announced Method to get rid of excesssice tyre wear..

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Volvo specialtool 5083
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From the greenbooks..


They say moving the hole 3mm(0,3cm) into the longhole should be 0,25?...
 
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OK, I've got the "top hats" or top strut mounts modified with the forward studs moved 23mm. Great pains were taken to assure symmetry between them; install validated as they fit perfect in the tower slots with same amount of fore/aft motion for caster adjustment:

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With them installed, here are a couple shots of the drivers side (LH side) showing that the modified mounts are now in contact with the strut tower at ~ the 10 o'clock position:

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and also:

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Last, a couple view "from the strut" to show that the upper mounts are at the limit of inboard movement, without metal removal. Drivers side (LH side):

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and the pass side (RH side):

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Notice the new INA strut bearings....I don't want to go back in here anytime soon. BILS HD right behind....... Last, for the record, a 10.5mm hole was drilled before pressing the OE studs back into position (place a socket on the opposite side so you minimize deformation - the metal is pretty soft).
 
aaaah :) this is nice documented !

23mm? isnt that a bit hard?

Ist keine probleme! From others who have made this modification, they report around -1* of camber, which is not excessive and helps to even out the tire wear, and makes improved grip of the front end.

I won't have alignment data for several months, but will post in this thread for the TB brothers & sisters. Can I get an AMEN?
 
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