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Budget 350hp b230fk build (9.3:1 compression)

I'll be adding GSXR 750 ITB's to the mix, still with LH2.4, to get my turbo lag down, and better breathing of the motor.

Wait can you really say 'ITB' and 'budget build' in the same sentence for a car that never came from the factory with them? I know LH2.4 is pretty flexible but I've also heard that ITB's are a massive PITA to tune. Is LH really able to handle all that? Because if it can, I think I may have to revisit my future plans and squeeze a nice little set of ITB's in! :godlike:
 
Put an airbox on the ITBs then have the MAF sensor on the end of the airbox. Well, that’s how you’d do it on a non-turbo. On a turbocharged setup it’s just the same as normal, except you’ll have two pipes after the the MAF as the air splits and goes to the two turbos.
 
For part 3, clearances and polishing, since the oil starvation had taken it's toll on the crankshaft and the rods, I decided to refinish the crankshaft, by chinabay rods, which would also have to be clearanced and got to work on several other important aspects.

The polished crankshaft, the shoestring and sandpaper trick was used whilst repeatedly checking with the fingernails and the calipers for correct clearances. The choice was made to be on the wide side of the stock clearance, which after polishing ended up being with the stock bearing size.


Polishing the set of chosen b230et pistons, with 3.6mm dish for 9.3:1 compression, for better torque and fuel consumption.


Side by side comparison of skirt thickness for old type ET pistons (right) vs FK/FT pistons (left)


The chinabay rods, suprisingly well matched in weight and split, but did have to clearance pin bore slightly and had to deburr and improve oiling hole on top of the small end, since the machining edges were terrible. (Still looking for arp grease, if anyone has some in the Netherlands!)


Balancing the pistons, rings, pins and rods.




Painted several bits, cleaned up carbon from stock cam and auxilary shaft


Restored turbo, ported and polished, rewelded worst of cracks, should hold for quite a while




Two TD04-13C turbo's, rebuild with a budget kit


Next up, manifold construction, which is still in the pipe's, so more progress will follow soon. The assembly of the block will be somewhere in december, so that will take a little while to get to.

Any more details on how you improved the oil holes and clearanced the rods,
 
I like everything about this but LH. good luck with that (seriously), look forward to seeing the finished product!
 
some clarifications

Dual intercoolers even? :lol:
Jup:)

Why not use something like this to simplify pipe work:
Love the build and the twins, keep it up :)

Yes I did consider that option, but I wish to go to a slit type manifold, for which with two intercoolers the pipework will actually align better with keeping everything separated. Checked out your build btw, awesome project!

Wait can you really say 'ITB' and 'budget build' in the same sentence for a car that never came from the factory with them? I know LH2.4 is pretty flexible but I've also heard that ITB's are a massive PITA to tune. Is LH really able to handle all that? Because if it can, I think I may have to revisit my future plans and squeeze a nice little set of ITB's in! :godlike:

Put an airbox on the ITBs then have the MAF sensor on the end of the airbox. Well, that’s how you’d do it on a non-turbo. On a turbocharged setup it’s just the same as normal, except you’ll have two pipes after the the MAF as the air splits and goes to the two turbos.

To summarize all this, yes you can easily do ITB's on a turbo build as long as it without leaks and you take into account the change in volumetric efficiency of the engine. The biggest hassle with ITB's is the difference in fuel you'll need to throw in to keep up with the throttle response, the turbo's and intercoolers somewhat delay this.

Below a summary of the setup I'm planning on in MS paint:rofl:
rnBfdZEl.jpg

I'll try to use an arduino or other custom harware to translate the total airflow recorded by the two MAF's into a for LH interpretable signal similair to the -016 swap if possible.

More details and the inspiration on the plenum design can be found here, pretty cool stuff:
https://www.bufkinengineering.com/intake manifolds.htm
 
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Any more details on how you improved the oil holes and clearanced the rods,

Nothing more than a grinding more of a tear drop in with a small ball end dremel tool for the oil holes, also removing the burrs remaining.

The clearance of the small end was done by using a small brake hone, heavily oiled at low rpm, and opening up the bore ever so slightly until the wrist pins went in with light thumb pressure as specified in the haynes manual. This to prevent any binding during run in, since I prefer a little loose over getting it hot during initial startup.

The big ends were checked in block with the plastigage, possibly you could also check them with a bore gauge for roundness and squareness, but considering my plastigage flattened down evenly, they should be good enough.

I like everything about this but LH. good luck with that (seriously), look forward to seeing the finished product!

Let's hope it works out, otherwise, I might just send you a private message for the LH to megasquirt stuff:-P
 
I'll try to use an arduino or other custom harware to translate the total airflow recorded by the two MAF's into a for LH interpretable signal similair to the -016 swap if possible.

Would it not be easier to have one MAF and a y-pipe after it that feeds the two turbos? You would definitely have more flow potential with the dual MAF's but are you shooting for power levels that would require that? It just adds another variable in an already complex tuning nightmare! That being said, I would love to see it be done :)

So massive props if you can get all this to work on LH that would (will?) be crazy! :lol:
 
Interesting, moving the MAF(s) would open up some options and allow me to get them away from the turbo manifold. Thanks for the tip!

My current plan was to first get the base map worked out on the car with the itb's (in an airbox) whilst also moving on with the turbo stuff on the engine stand. With a blow trough setup I could also keep the same wiring then. :)

After that I was planning to put the new engine in, and run it in without the turbo's after which I can start to add all of the complex bits for the TT setup and make it work. And then slowly increase the boost until I am where I wish to be power wise.

Sorry for the lack of actual updates for now, with the current study load I can only get to benchracing an a little progress each week:help:

Oh and additionally, I finally got my eeprom programmer and eeproms, so soon I'll be trying to burn a couple of chips:-D
 
China intercoolers, put the head on, and got myself into 16v trouble

Finally some more progress on both the engine and the car itself, with some late nights and little tasks during quick study breaks:)

The first hurdle was cleared by drilling out the old oil pump drive gear, and installing a new one, with the installer made by a friend. These were only available from Volvo Penta, so I took the liberty of getting 2 at once for possible future projects.
eDTmgPgl.jpg


The next hurdle, the intermediate shaft bearings was also cleared. I covered the new bearings in a good inside coating of vaseline top prevent gaulling of the surface, and used a m20 threaded rod to pull in the bearings nice and straight, finally they are in perfect:spin:
UsBat1ol.jpg


Youtube video for the fit:p

I also put in the rear oil seal in one go, so much win!
sCrP6Zql.jpg


A few days later I spent a day porting, polishing and reassembling the oil pump, all should be well.
sejnxRKl.jpg


kb9bkZsl.jpg


SvpazOml.jpg


oEA1uE4l.jpg


xb8myY9l.jpg


Tl9sOeNl.jpg


Moving back to the engine itself, I got the head installed with the 12.9 grade head bolts, and proceeded to spend ages to get the valve shims in spec (6 attempts required for perfection):p
opDaaHjl.jpg



aGm54S2l.jpg


pLzVICQl.jpg


W0OuXI3l.jpg


With the valve clearance set, I proceeded to applying anaerobic sealant to the cam end caps and put in the rear and front cam seal, since I'll be going wasted spark with this setup.

The large intercoolers I ordered also arrived at the post office, hopefully they'll fit in the front with my measurements.
ukzpPB1l.jpg


With all except the oil pan sorted, I proceeded to time the motor on the stand.
QwRDnovl.jpg


And discovered an issue with my plan to use a 24mm wide timing belt.
W53nwtql.jpg


After a little read and contact with KGtimmning, I went on the lookout for 16v cam gears, which escalated into me buying a set of PZ 16v cams, the roller and belt for a 16v conversion for Strettman. Who I ended up helping to buy a very clean orange 242 which was local to me, pretty cool coincidence.
M8mryZjl.jpg


The crankshaft gear had a little damage on the key, which I managed to restore with a weld bead and a file to an acceptable result.
0B1Ewwrl.jpg


With this the issue was partly solved, more updates on getting a fitting timing cover and tensioner later.

Proceeding with a night of playing around with the welder and grinder I also managed to create v2 of half of the turbo manifold, which after a test fit on the car still required some adjustments, since my initial placement for turbo #2 was in the frame rail. Stupid mistake, but I modeled it without the car in winter in the driveway to check, so it was to be expected.
gmscWZjl.jpg


I'll soon be getting test fitting v2.5 to continue with the top manifold for turbo #2 (fitment will be different, but this should give an idea of the interfering framerail
cQBnmYil.jpg
 
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<img src="https://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh530/Heimeharrie/Engine%20build/WhatsApp%20Image%202019-06-02%20at%2015.11.14%201_zpsqvob0uhe.jpeg" width="600" height="400">

Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..
 
Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..

Hmm, probably then, seemed the most logical at the time, but rubber on the oil side is maybe less smart. I'll change it out by the time I've gone through run in and am ready to put my K-cam in:oops: Thanks!


You may have to re-engineer your coolant transfer tube with that manifold.

Yes I already noticed indeed, with a little adjustment it should work however, I'm more concerned as to the turbo not hitting my strut towers;-)
 
Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim
 
Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the tips, I'll take them into account when I get to part 2 of the manifold, I'm currently working on the chassis some more, so my time (and budget) has been spent there mostly:oops:

I did already run into 3/4 of these issues on my previous manifold, so hopefully I won't mess up this time around:rofl: My biggest fitment issue is probably going to be the hood clearance on the top turbo whilst retaining a nice airflow path to the turbo inlet, I hate the look of a hood scoop, so hopefully I'll manage without. Even in a 7 series, it is going to be tight, especially since I'd like to have the space to eventually upgrade to a 15, 17 or 19T:oogle:
 
They fit, they fit!!

Hi all, today I finally got to the point of checking the fit of the since the previous post many times revised manifold. It has been tack welded for now, and I'll hopefully to get it completely done somewhere next month.

I was very happy to find that they fit! Only slightly fouling the water transfer tube, which should be addressable by moving the bend a bit.
f2n9sX4l.jpg


I should also have the space for a downpipe, and I can acces all the bolts somewhat okay, as well as mount the manifold with the turbos attached:oogle:
JV5i7dUl.jpg


The top DP will be close, but Ill rotate the top turbo a bit more to the intake side for some additional clearance which will also require moving the wasted spark setup to the back of the cylinder head. This shouldn't be to big of a problem:roll:
ckTobnpl.jpg


I also did a very advanced hood clearance test with gaffers tape and an exhaust bolt and concluded plenty of hood clearance was present. I couldn't be happier (read surprised), this is actually going according to plan:lol:
PVdal35l.jpg


With all this succes I decided to finally get into the calculations for my HP goals, with an aim of 350 crank HP, I set a target boost of about 25psi given the current 135 I guestimate with the K cam and 9.3 comp pistons for the 2.3L with light porting. A bit of guessticalculation and I arrive at about 665 cfm @7krpm, which translates to roughly 0.31 m^3/s and get a pressure ratio of 2.6 for the given boost.

Since we are going to run 2 turbo's I halved that and mapped it onto the turbo map for the 13c, which shows I'm at the edges of sanity, but will probably be able to get into boost at 3.5krpm and will get cooler air as the engine's rpm rise. I also added a second line for about 15 psi of boost to see where I would end up, getting into boost at 2.5krpm.
q0dDuKrl.jpg


Since I am by no means a turbo master, this might be all wrong, so please correct me if I made any obvious mistakes:-P Maybe Duder could chime in and bring me up to speed on the compromises I'm making, I'd love to know a bit more before I get to trying to tune this contraption
 
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