Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
:-/ so basically there is just a lot of air still in the system?
Yes or your new MC is DOA right out of the box.
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:-/ so basically there is just a lot of air still in the system?
Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.Well so I held it in my hand, filled it with fluid, then pumped it with an extension. Added some more fluid. Stopped pumping when I didn't see any more bubbles. That counts as bench bleeding right?
Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.
I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.
The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...
Progress is progress!!Took the master cylinder off and redid the bench bleed. I was able to get some air bubbles out so I might be onto something.
It's good to have priorities, lol.Going to pizza with my wife and see if I feel like trying to bleed the system again tonight. Probably not though.
I haven't installed a rod extension like dave barton did on his car. I don't think that's my problem but maybe?
what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?
what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?
^ This and or tap on the proportioning valves with the handle of a screwdriver while you bleed them to break up the bubbles.
Also after having the system open I always abandon the official order initially, and bleed the top fronts first, [air rises] and then the fronts so as to NOT send any air out back to be trapped in the proportioning valves.
& INB4 defective rebuilt calipers...
Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.
I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.
The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...