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Microsquirt Newb

Alan29 said:
Not sure about capacitors...need to look into it further. No reference to them optional or not in thr pdf mega manual so it wasn't something that was brought to my attention until now.
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Well, from what Iv'e read they are recommended. Iv'e linked a page above, not sure if you saw that ^^

I kinda like the fusebox you've used, with the free space from having removed the stock single coil. Sadly I can't use the same location as I have the PS reservoir here too, mounted on the coil bracket..

Is it me or, like, on all pics/vids from US cars, the PS pump have the reservoir mounted on top of it and in almost all the cars I came across here in France it's remotely mounted on the coil bracket...
 
Victorrr said:
from this link http://www.useasydocs.com/details/coils.htm (under "LS2 coils")

Edit : As for the ground... I have no idea but I think you are right, but it seems weird. I would run separate wires to a bus tho. More work but cleaner.
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You should NOT be using B&G manuals to do an Extra install. Can be old, stinky, stale, or just plain wrong info. Even some of the stuff on DIY is bad info, it "works" but it is not the current recommended method. Extra code is more current has more features and is better supported.

The only manuals you should be using are the Extra manuals.
Extra code does things differently and the Extra project is much more current.
If you can't find the answer there ask on the Extra forum msextra.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=101

LS coils should be mounted on the motor and grounded to the motor with short as possible routing (best to run individual wires to 1 ground point per head). This is to prevent noise issues, See section 5.3.1 of the Microsquirt hardware manual for LS or other logic triggerd coils. msextra.com/doc/pdf/Microsquirt_Hardware-3.4.pdf
 
Dirty Rick said:
You should NOT be using B&G manuals to do an Extra install. Can be old, stinky, stale, or just plain wrong info. Even some of the stuff on DIY is bad info, it "works" but it is not the current recommended method. Extra code is more current has more features and is better supported.

The only manuals you should be using are the Extra manuals.
Extra code does things differently and the Extra project is much more current.
If you can't find the answer there ask on the Extra forum msextra.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=101

LS coils should be mounted on the motor and grounded to the motor with short as possible routing (best to run individual wires to 1 ground point per head). This is to prevent noise issues, See section 5.3.1 of the Microsquirt hardware manual for LS or other logic triggerd coils. msextra.com/doc/pdf/Microsquirt_Hardware-3.4.pdf
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So we don't need these capacitors ? They are mentioned in the Yoshifab manual and the older (way more detailed btw) B&G manual but not in the MS extra

It's kinda confusing ^^
 
Linuxman also confirmed with me he hadn't used capacitors with LS coils. I'm continuing along with the pdf manual as before along with the TB experts who have chimed in here with some excellent info. No more digging...more digging brings more confusion lol.


Some progress today. Weather pack installed on the six factory wires I needed at the driver side harness. Was hoping to run the other side of that to their respective homes but ran out of time as usual.

Scouted out some options to run a couple wires from the driver side engine compartment into the dash area on that side. Think I'm going to poke and shove them through the factory harness grommet. Would rather not run them all the way over to my passenger side just to get to the other side of the firewall driver side.
 
Alan29 said:
Linuxman also confirmed with me he hadn't used capacitors with LS coils. I'm continuing along with the pdf manual as before along with the TB experts who have chimed in here with some excellent info. No more digging...more digging brings more confusion lol.


Some progress today. Weather pack installed on the six factory wires I needed at the driver side harness. Was hoping to run the other side of that to their respective homes but ran out of time as usual.

Scouted out some options to run a couple wires from the driver side engine compartment into the dash area on that side. Think I'm going to poke and shove them through the factory harness grommet. Would rather not run them all the way over to my passenger side just to get to the other side of the firewall driver side.
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Time is at a premium when doing these things. Good wisdom regarding digging.
The area under the dash is a mess from factory, good luck with that.

What is your approach regarding the stock harness ? You trust the factory wires enough to use them (I assume you have checked them, it being an 83 means you have the bio-degradable harness right ?)
 
On the driver side harness the wires weren't crusty at the side that matters (running to the firewall) and the insulation was in remarkably good shape which came as a pleasant surprise considering how the rest of the wiring looked. I'm using a six lead weatherpack connector to replace the old rotten connector. One side has the remaining factory leads in it from the firewall. The other side I'm running new wiring to the starter, temp sensor, oil pressure sending unit, and alternator. Also running a larger gauge wire from the starter to my alternator and bundling them all together in the same type of heavier duty flexible cover that was on the stock wiring running around the front of the motor.

At some point I'm going to need to dive into the factory loom a bit deeper. Figure I'll wait until I need to yank the dash which will make it much easier to address everything that needs to be done in that loom (headlights, wiper motor, removing the rest of the kjet wiring, etc). I had intended on removing all the residual kjet wiring inside the car now but it wasn't until I was under there that I realized it was all bundled up with everything else under the dash. So for now I just cut the harness, tucked it away, and will yank the necessary fuse(s) to the stock ecu stuff. Not ideal but its not something I have time to deal with at this point.
 
Alan29 said:
On the driver side harness the wires weren't crusty at the side that matters (running to the firewall) and the insulation was in remarkably good shape which came as a pleasant surprise considering how the rest of the wiring looked. I'm using a six lead weatherpack connector to replace the old rotten connector. One side has the remaining factory leads in it from the firewall. The other side I'm running new wiring to the starter, temp sensor, oil pressure sending unit, and alternator. Also running a larger gauge wire from the starter to my alternator and bundling them all together in the same type of heavier duty flexible cover that was on the stock wiring running around the front of the motor.

At some point I'm going to need to dive into the factory loom a bit deeper. Figure I'll wait until I need to yank the dash which will make it much easier to address everything that needs to be done in that loom (headlights, wiper motor, removing the rest of the kjet wiring, etc). I had intended on removing all the residual kjet wiring inside the car now but it wasn't until I was under there that I realized it was all bundled up with everything else under the dash. So for now I just cut the harness, tucked it away, and will yank the necessary fuse(s) to the stock ecu stuff. Not ideal but its not something I have time to deal with at this point.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's good. Thx mine is an 88 (no wiring issues)
About sensors... For the water temp sensor regarding the MS install, are you using the stock sensor for the gauge + a newer GM/something sensor for MS ?

Huh, this isn't a good news for me (needing to remove the dash to remove all K Jet stuff).
Stock ECU ? Wait since when does K Jet have an ECU.. oh, nvm, my Euro car doesn't have one ^^
(It also got the cat delete from factory)
 
Yes I'm using the stock one so I can still have my temp gauge. Plus GM one threaded into head for the MS.

You don't really need to remove all the stock kjet wiring if you don't want to. Just pull the appropriate fuses so you don't still have power running to a component that is no longer there or to a wire that's been cut. Prob don't even have to yank the dash to dive into the stock harness to get all those wires out, but it sure would make it easier I think.
 
Alan29 said:
Yes I'm using the stock one so I can still have my temp gauge. Plus GM one threaded into head for the MS.

You don't really need to remove all the stock kjet wiring if you don't want to. Just pull the appropriate fuses so you don't still have power running to a component that is no longer there or to a wire that's been cut. Prob don't even have to yank the dash to dive into the stock harness to get all those wires out, but it sure would make it easier I think.
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I'm trying so remove K Jet in a manner as clean as possible, so I may be able to sell the whole thing as is (I need money y know)

Where do you thread the coolant temp in the head ?
Same question but for the Intake air temp (IAT), I was thinking about using one of the many vacuum port holes of the Lh manifold (the ones on the flat part) so to have the sensor facing the TB. I'll use the common GL open element sensor with a small cage around it, Iv'e read the bronze ones are too slow to react.
 
For sensors, take a look at the various Bosch Motorsport catalogs. Search for them via filetype:pdf in Google. Those sensors are usually quite expensive, but... The catalog also lists parts that derive from series products. Catalog mentions something along the lines of "low price, series production etc" and includes sizes, range, which connector is needed for it. Then use that part number and check price at daparto.de. Managed to buy various sensors for my pending ems swap for cheap, even oil temp/pressure sensors normally costing hundreds.

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c561/motorsport-sensors

Also, some very good info about settings in the maxxecu manual, even if you use a different ecu:
https://maxxecu.com/webhelp/index.html
 
JW240 said:
For sensors, take a look at the various Bosch Motorsport catalogs. Search for them via filetype:pdf in Google. Those sensors are usually quite expensive, but... The catalog also lists parts that derive from series products. Catalog mentions something along the lines of "low price, series production etc" and includes sizes, range, which connector is needed for it. Then use that part number and check price at daparto.de. Managed to buy various sensors for my pending ems swap for cheap, even oil temp/pressure sensors normally costing hundreds.

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c561/motorsport-sensors

Also, some very good info about settings in the maxxecu manual, even if you use a different ecu:
https://maxxecu.com/webhelp/index.html
Click to expand...

Wow thanks for the tip, I'll check that as I need to save every penny ^^
 
The end is near. Lots of stuff installed back on the car. Ran into a little issue with the blue injectors not seating all the way into the mani or the rail. Decided after consulting a few I'd rather have a potential vacuum leak than a fuel leak so clipped in at the rail. Still seats down plenty far into the mani and the seals are new. Will keep a close eye on that. Also need to redo my return fuel hose. Made the mistake of cutting it too short and I don't like how its routed so going to purchase some more and handle that before I start running it.

Taking Friday off to (hopefully) complete all the MS wiring and finish making a catch can. Still working on finding someone to weld my WB and IAT bungs as the guy who was originally going to do it walked out on the job. Can't just roll up into an exhaust shop for both since the pipe for the IAT is alloy. At least maybe I can go through the initial settings and some sensor calibration this weekend if all goes well.

Have some updated photos in my shared google drive:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdXShfPT1UEx1P869
 
Alan29 said:
The end is near. Lots of stuff installed back on the car. Ran into a little issue with the blue injectors not seating all the way into the mani or the rail. Decided after consulting a few I'd rather have a potential vacuum leak than a fuel leak so clipped in at the rail. Still seats down plenty far into the mani and the seals are new. Will keep a close eye on that. Also need to redo my return fuel hose. Made the mistake of cutting it too short and I don't like how its routed so going to purchase some more and handle that before I start running it.

Taking Friday off to (hopefully) complete all the MS wiring and finish making a catch can. Still working on finding someone to weld my WB and IAT bungs as the guy who was originally going to do it walked out on the job. Can't just roll up into an exhaust shop for both since the pipe for the IAT is alloy. At least maybe I can go through the initial settings and some sensor calibration this weekend if all goes well.

Have some updated photos in my shared google drive:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdXShfPT1UEx1P869
Click to expand...

I JB Welded my IAT bung.
 
Friday didn't get as far as I wanted. Spent too much time figuring out where to mount the unit. Ended up going inside the glove box on the right side running the harness out the left. Can still fit some things in there and it's easy enough to unplug with minimal hassle if/when the dash needs to come out.

Ran my 12v key on from the fuel relay location to my box and my FP power lead back under the dash to feed the pumps vis the wiring from the relay. E fan and power supply stuff all done.

Crossing my fingers on the tach signal that I can get away with no circuit (few folks here seem to have been able to run the tach directly from MS in a kjet car...we shall see).

Fixed my return fuel line, got all my vacuum stuff done, mounted my map on the intake mani support, made my catch can, routed my vent hoses, etc.

Found a shop to weld my bungs and picking up the parts tomorrow. Need to install all the exhaust and finish wiring up the MS stuff which I hope to get done this week. If I can push to get this done I can start getting it all setup with tuner studio for a possible start this weekend. Pretty stoked. Thanks again for all the help/advice.
 
Got it started. Huge thanks to everyone here and the TB discord group. Need to track down a timing light to get moving on stabilizing idle and whatnot.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n1VY1FfGEhXHQYCF6

Open DP for now. Had some help this weekend to try it get the JT tuning 3" turbo back (EDIT...may not be actual JT see my comment two posts below) mounted but the portion over the axle seems all wrong. Need to get it to an exhaust shop to modify and fit it once I get this car roadworthy. Some updated pics in my album:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdXShfPT1UEx1P869
 
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FWIW my JT Tuning exhaust fit just fine. They need a bunch of adjustment, plus, the rear section is kind of confusing to arrange, and putting things of backwards may make it seem like it almost fits.
 
It seems this may not be a JT exhaust after all. I had reached out to them about some fit concerns and they advised if I bought via KL-Racing then it wasn't theirs...KL sells copies of their exhaust.

We tried the backwards approach as well. Could either get it to route from the muffler and around the tank or get it over the axle to that one piece with the hangers, but not both.
 
Alan29 said:
It seems this may not be a JT exhaust after all. I had reached out to them about some fit concerns and they advised if I bought via KL-Racing then it wasn't theirs...KL sells copies of their exhaust.

We tried the backwards approach as well. Could either get it to route from the muffler and around the tank or get it over the axle to that one piece with the hangers, but not both.
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:rofl: they rip each other off left and right without a care in the world
 
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