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244Ti Stage Rally Project

Bosch Bulldog roto hammer with the tile-remover chisel bit. Damn, giving away my best secrets here. the trick is to put a nice edge on the chisel, with a good sharp corner, but at only like 45 degree angle, so it doesn't dig in and cut the steel. It works like a charm once you get the hang of it, maybe 3-4 minutes per square foot.
 
Roto hammer does work great, but there still are a few nooks, crannies and odd angles where it's too big & a heat gun and a scraper are needed.

This is like the 5th car I've "sound livened." Definitely getting faster and learning new tricks each time
 
Thoughts on the oscillating saw? I love them. You can even groove rally tires with them!
 
Thoughts on the oscillating saw? I love them. You can even groove rally tires with them!

Thats exactly what I used one of those for on my stock car since we were extremely limited on our tire selection! Were you talking about removing the tar paper with one?

Got an update from Al the other day. Started with the seam welds. I will be coming up there for a day or two this week




In a bit of somewhat unimportant not technical news, since we are getting pretty close on having the "tub" of the car pretty much done, I've settled on what to paint it with. Called the local tractor shop for some John Deer Blitz Black. Tough, durable, cheapish and looks pretty decent if you dont put 100% effort into prep

 
Thats exactly what I used one of those for on my stock car since we were extremely limited on our tire selection! Were you talking about removing the tar paper with one?

Heck yeah. They make a chisel blade, or you can make your own out of a really dull saw blade (and they come in different widths too!). It just scrapes right on through the tar paper. It only works well on flat or mostly flat surfaces.

For weld prep in tight areas, I've found that a flat wire wheel in the drill is about the greatest thing since sliced break. The lower speeds of the drill keep it from melting the undercoating and it will actually rip it off the metal.
Garth and Kyle at Trackside swear by this: https://store.snapon.com/Remove-All-Tool-Tool-Air-Crud-Removal-P644425.aspx
At $550, I'm never going to buy one. They do amazing shell prep on all of their rally cars, and they don't use dry ice or liquid nitrogen.
 
Heck yeah. They make a chisel blade, or you can make your own out of a really dull saw blade (and they come in different widths too!). It just scrapes right on through the tar paper. It only works well on flat or mostly flat surfaces.

For weld prep in tight areas, I've found that a flat wire wheel in the drill is about the greatest thing since sliced break. The lower speeds of the drill keep it from melting the undercoating and it will actually rip it off the metal.
Garth and Kyle at Trackside swear by this: https://store.snapon.com/Remove-All-Tool-Tool-Air-Crud-Removal-P644425.aspx
At $550, I'm never going to buy one. They do amazing shell prep on all of their rally cars, and they don't use dry ice or liquid nitrogen.

Pricey but looks effective.

Speaking of effectiveness, I've been lacking in that department this week with a double whammy of strep throat and poison oak. Nothing has been stopping Al though. I'll be up there next week hopefully for a few consecutive days to knock more crap out.








 
Being a cage noob....

Is it common to open up the roof like that and then weld it back up?

Not all the time, but sometimes, yes.

In this case, we were eliminating the sunroof that came stock [it was a Turbo model] so we had to eliminate the tray it sat in as well as cutting out the opening where the sunroof was. Gives good access to weld everything up as well as getting it tucked as close to the roof as possible which is ideal. We will be welding a panel back in there with roof vents.
 
Why do people always put the rear down bars to the fender wells and not the area right above the shock?!? Drives me nuts.

Al could probably explain better than I, but IIRC his reasoning for having them spread out onto the fender wells was to provide another escape route [rear window] in the event of a rollover where the sides are blocked off. I asked him the same question because both my Lemons cars have the backstays running just next to the fenderwell next to the shock. I'm not expert on the subject, but if the fenderwell and that area where the bars run on my other cars area tied together well enough I don't think it will make much difference.

Either way at some point down the line the back stays will be tied in to real shock towers once it comes time
 
If you're running stock rear suspension links, reinforce the weld nuts for the upper links (but you probably already know this). I made a sweet little drill guide to hole saw out the stock weld-nut, and some fancy double shear brackets. 2hrs of work and infinite peace... oooohhhhhmmmmmm.
Will post back with some photogs.
 
If you're running stock rear suspension links, reinforce the weld nuts for the upper links (but you probably already know this). I made a sweet little drill guide to hole saw out the stock weld-nut, and some fancy double shear brackets. 2hrs of work and infinite peace... oooohhhhhmmmmmm.
Will post back with some photogs.

I'd love to see these. The passenger side weld nut is partially stripped and won't hold torque (even with locktight). I was contemplating sawing it out and welding in a bracket just like this (I'll have to do something). It would be great to see what you did and not have to reinvent the wheel.
 
Drill bushing I made that threads into the stock weld nut, and leaved you with a nice hole:




Then make some plates out of 1/8in flat bar, drill a hole for the link bolt, and weld a nut to the backside. I used some 1/8in thick strap that was 2in wide and 6in long to reinforce the floor area for the in-board tab. Add in a cheap crappy MIG and overhead welding to get this:
 
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