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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Yeah, Noah (the guy with the welding skills) and I have been saying how hard it must be to make money doing this. It's so fiddly, and with the warping, they're all a little different.

I want to do two passes, yeah. Seems like that's the best way to get 100% penetration. But we'll see what happens once we get going. Noah is a little concerned about adding essentially twice the heat into the piece, encouraging more warping.

It's less heat if you do two passes. The first is basically just fusion with very little filler and depending on your land thickness would be maybe 50 A. Then the cap is put in with just enough to get it to fuse all the way around. Pulse with like 100 A full pedal.

When I was making headers, It always takes about 50% more time than I think it will take and with purging and all the other messing around, it never got fast. Mild steel would be different, but stainless is time consuming to get it nice.
 
It's less heat if you do two passes. The first is basically just fusion with very little filler and depending on your land thickness would be maybe 50 A. Then the cap is put in with just enough to get it to fuse all the way around. Pulse with like 100 A full pedal.

When I was making headers, It always takes about 50% more time than I think it will take and with purging and all the other messing around, it never got fast. Mild steel would be different, but stainless is time consuming to get it nice.

That's what I was thinking, re: heat, but I'm not doing the welding so I really don't know, haha. I wish he had a pulse set up, though.
 
I'm curious how that will do, cooling-wise. Looks very similar to my fan setup, which didn't move enough air. I think your treatment of the radiator supports and top radiator cover looks great, though.

You mentioned barely clearing the hood. I assume that's just the filler neck? Do you have any pics of the mounting tabs at the bottom of the radiator? I'm thinking about that same radiator, but using a 240 style expansion tank and filling it from there. Not having the filler sticking up would help move it further forward, making room for the fan and shroud.

Yes, the cap has about a finger's thickness to the hood. I didn't want to get into modifying the radiator and/or finding yet another place for a bottle at a set height, but, I like the plan of the expansion tank. It at least give visibility of coolant height.

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Here's a picture of the tabs. With the radiator centered up they just sit on the flat area before the fender wall slopes up. I found a radiator grommet on Amazon, step drilled the flange, and made a little bolt in plate with a pin that comes up. From your other thread it looks like you've made yourself some more room vertically. I thought long and hard about making the same cut because that bar sets the placement of my intercooler. I left it in not knowing what problems I'd unleash if I cut it.

The jagged hole on the right was where the intercooler piping ran on v1. The intercooler is now flipped and the pipes run out the top and I'll need to patch that hole. With the radiator there I have about 2.5" of space between the fan and the pulley. Probably room enough for a shroud. Shame to have something be at >1/8" tolerance in that bay...

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Everything stacked in there. I need to trim the bottom oil cooler mount because it interferes with the grill trim. It's 1/4" spacing between each cooler.
 
Everything stacked in there.

That looks great. I like that your oil cooler is able to fit. That's where mine was on my old 8 valve setup, but the way I ended up doing my radiator this time means I'll have to find a new spot for the oil cooler. I may just commit to the no bumper look and mount it in one of the old bumper holes.

This is how I lowered the radiator support to use the 16x20 radiator I already had.

2" square tubing, set about 1.5" lower than the old support:
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M8 riv nuts in the bottom for splash pan/air diverter. I figure a big part of the poor cooling was the high pressure in the engine bay:
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Roughly where the radiator will sit. This should give me room for a proper 14" fan and a decent shroud:
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Got the radiator more or less bolted in. It's crazy to have this much room behind the radiator in a 140. Should make packaging everything a lot easier.

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I'm pretty happy with the little supports I made to hold the radiator and give the hood slam panel its rigidity back after cutting off the old radiator supports. I made the new supports out of some 1.25" 1/8" square tube I had laying around. Unfortunately, I used the project to practice TIG welding, so they are pretty rough. Powder coat will help.

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I would kill to have that many room for activities behind my radiator in the 122. I'm back to running my radiator tipped forward 15* to clear the new whirly boi goin in.

A flap disc should blend those welds nicely. I need to get in and clean up my ish welds.

Are you using scratch start tig or HF start?
 
I would kill to have that many room for activities behind my radiator in the 122. I'm back to running my radiator tipped forward 15* to clear the new whirly boi goin in.

A flap disc should blend those welds nicely. I need to get in and clean up my ish welds.

Are you using scratch start tig or HF start?

Scratch/lift start. It's annoying, and I have jammed SO many tungstens into the puddle right as I start. I'm very slowly getting the hang of it though. Definitely enough to stick metal together in a quiet enough way that it won't wake the baby.
 
Do you have arc shut off control? The hardest thing for me was termination while keeping gas coverage. I rigged up a foot switch to a 200 amp dc contactor and it was so much easier. It’s definitely worth learning.
 
What do you mean by arc shutoff? It has a foot pedal, so I can taper the amperage on shut off. The post flow is not adjustable, but it seems to be tied to the amperage setting, so for hot passes, it'll flow for longer.

One funny thing with gas coverage: Whenever the cooling fan kicked on, the arc would go crazy and then burn through. I figured it was some sort of voltage thing since I was near the upper limits of the machine and using an extension cord. Turns out, I'm a dummy and had the fan inadvertently pointed right at the work piece, so it was just blowing the gas away.
 
Ah. Some/most old school scratch start, like mine, have no amp control, torch always live, set amps based on material thickness and go. That is the hardest to learn on, but gives you a lot of understanding of arc length control, and its effect on heat management as well a speed control. As the work piece heats up, get your best Goldblum on and must go faster till you're ready to finish. Basically you scratch the arc, pull to length, run your bead and as you get to your finish, slam some filler in the puddle to cool it then snap the arc away and come back in to maintain gas coverage.
 
Sounds like the type of thing I do on the regular.

Me too. My shared workshop has a front door facing west and a roll-up door on the east side. The welding table is in between these. When we open both doors for flow-through ventilation the gas gets blown all over the place on a day with a stiff sea breeze. Took me a while to figure that one out!
 
Yeah, it was a weird one. I'm just going along, overheating the **** out of some 1/8" steel, minding my own business. Fan kicks on, then BAM.

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The welder was on my bench, about 12" from the piece. Shielding gas never stood a chance.
 
Yeah, it was a weird one. I'm just going along, overheating the **** out of some 1/8" steel, minding my own business. Fan kicks on, then BAM.

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The welder was on my bench, about 12" from the piece. Shielding gas never stood a chance.

whats the cup size and what cfh are you running? I'm liking my #14 mooseknuckle and my FUPA 12 at like 35-37, and I dont seem to have issues much unless its howling with all 3 bay doors open.

Also, you may want to try not outrunning your cup. Shorten you weld travel to the width of you cup. Not sure how your machine reacts to hot restarts, but if I run an inch on sch10 (.10 wall 304ss), and cut the arc, let it cool till the orange flashes silver and smack the pedal itll fire off again without scratch, then I can keep going and the tail is cool by the time it leaves the gas coverage.
 
whats the cup size and what cfh are you running? I'm liking my #14 mooseknuckle and my FUPA 12 at like 35-37, and I dont seem to have issues much unless its howling with all 3 bay doors open.

Also, you may want to try not outrunning your cup. Shorten you weld travel to the width of you cup. Not sure how your machine reacts to hot restarts, but if I run an inch on sch10 (.10 wall 304ss), and cut the arc, let it cool till the orange flashes silver and smack the pedal itll fire off again without scratch, then I can keep going and the tail is cool by the time it leaves the gas coverage.

I'm using an 8 with a gas lens, around 20-25 cfh. I know I was way too hot on this pass, too. Doing shorter runs would be way better, but I'm still at the point where I'm trying to coordinate my two hands, so I usually just power through...
 
Well, I have been playing with the TIG welder I got last month quite a bit, so I decided to make some things. First, a stainless 4" downpipe. It still needs the wastegate routing, and some o2 bungs, but it's mostly done, and it fits, so I'm calling it a win. I went with 4" because there's enough room with the engine upright, and it has to help with spool, at least a little. That's what I'm telling myself.

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The plan with the exhaust manifold was to bring it to Noah for finish welding. Coronavirus has been preventing that, and I got impatient. It took a while, and of course I made some mistakes, but overall it went pretty well for my first big TIG project. One significant downside to doing it myself is that I wasn't able to purge it, like we would have at Noah's. Maybe this will **** me later on, but I was getting full penetration anyway, so I'm hoping it will hold up. I think I want to media blast, then pressure wash the inside of it before I run it, in case there's any small sugar clumps in there.

Related to penetration, if you're making a weld el manifold, make sure you give yourself big enough bevels. The factory bevels are almost knife edged, which will allow full penetration. My bevels were much smaller. Oh, and the cast collector I used is pretty sweet, but the super short connections for the runners make it very tricky to weld out. I actually have to try to bend a tungsten to get the last 10mm or so. And in some spots it just wasn't possible to use filler, so I had to just fusion weld them without filler. A few people said they wanted to build weld el manifolds, and as a beginner welder, I now have some advice on what not to do.

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