Pig: '79 242 16vT

122power · Sep 22, 2019

The fuel must slosh out of the sump or the pumps suck it out faster than the fuel can come back in there. It only comes in there in that little hole in the bottom of the sump wall.

reiernumans · Sep 25, 2019

Stiggy Pop said:
reminds me of my youth in SAAB 900's hitting fuel cut.

First thing that came to mind when I saw that video :rofl:

Harlard · Sep 25, 2019

Culberro came over a couple days ago with his compression tester. Had a normalish rush of air through the oil filler hole, then put my hand on it and heard gurgling from the radiator. Not great, but better than all other alternatives unless I melted the contact surface of the head...in which case I need to get looking for a replacement bottom head casting and send it off to Culberro Head Jobs to have the seats redone and the deck flattened before this thing can run again.

Aditionally I need to find an easier way to set base timing on this thing. It's very hard to stare at the TDC rib while holding a strobe light :grrr:

Anyway, further confirmation of gasket failure:

As an aside, I think I'm going to have to invest in some form of individual runner EGT monitoring, at least something good enough to use at the dyno to trim the holes individually. The manifold is biasing the front 3 cylinders quite a bit. Not the worst thing ever with #4 being usually the hottest, but still. Oil residue is from leaky tube o-rings...at least this debacle gives me an excuse to deal with those (from left to right- 4, 3, 2, 1):

RvolvoR · Sep 25, 2019

honestly, using spark plugs on a street car which sits in traffic and gets driven at part throttle a bunch as a method to tell how the engine is running is a joke...furthermore, you also can't really use it as a tell when there is a possibility of coolant entering any of the combustion chambers. Furthermore, that oil leaking from the spark plug tube seals can and will wick down the threads of the spark plugs...just furthering making "reading the plugs" useless. I would say to get everything running right before you start worrying about trimming individual cylinders on a street car...the gains from that will be minimal.

klr142 · Oct 23, 2019

And if you need the bottom of a head, we have stuff in Marc's garage.

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

There is some updating to do in here. Found a pressure leak into the cooling system. Sent head off to a local machine shop for decking and pressure checking.RPessure check turned out OK but the head was out .005?. Back in it went, with the ASS mounts replaced for stockers, and a set of STS torque mount brackets along with an eBay ?damper? that absorbs a bit more vibration than the solid rod. Good for me.

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

At this point I was hoping to run R8 coils as they are strong enough to do what I need. Sadly they are too tall to fit the well cover and the primary coil impedance would have required a buffer circuit. Back to Rockauto they go. Next I will try some R35 GT-R coils, we’ll see whether the right tube length is available, what connector, and circuit specs. Having the engine bay a little less cluttered would be highly welcomed. Oh yeah, painted the strut tower bar, because why not.

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

Once the car was moving under its own power again I had to hustle end get a spare engine I had up for sale shipped to Santa Cruz, XC90 tire, couple ratchet straps, and a whole lot of freight wrap later, I loaded it up into a rental truck and off it went. Got to Tyler no problem.

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

Torque wrench let me down. Harbor Freight is not a place to buy stuff that requires precision, I suppose. It was probably the reason the engine leaked compression in the first place. Live and learn, I suppose. Replaced it with a Tekton under more than one recommendation. Seems to do well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU

Pics of the reassembly (these things are kind of a pain in the ass, but it gets easier with repetition). Still leaks oil into one spark plug well and now out the valve cover on the downpipe…

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

Lifted this from a showroom thread:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/lohtlhXj2T4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Final numbers were 280hp at 6700 RPM and 240 lbs ft at 5200 at the wheels. 10 PSI (gate pressure) Fuel pressure was dropping after that. Has another 1000 rpm, more boost, and more timing in it.

Tuner suspects a fuel pump issue (AEM 320). I'll be swapping in a Walbro 450 with some bulkhead fittings and go from there.

oldschoolvolvo · Dec 2, 2019

Harlard said:
Still leaks oil into one spark plug well and now out the valve cover on the downpipe…

Originating from the valve cover gasket?

I used Form-A-Gasket #3 on the valve cover gaskets with good results.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...x-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

From the o-rings weirdly enough.

Did you replace the gasket with Permatex or did you use it as a dressing?

EDIT: can be used as either. Cool!

oldschoolvolvo · Dec 2, 2019

Darn, that's frustrating.

I used the Permatex as a gasket dressing.

RvolvoR · Dec 2, 2019

Did you use the Volvo pink stuff or try to use the loctite product?

Harlard · Dec 2, 2019

I used the Loctite. Same one Kenny uses. Can't remember the number off the top of my head.

RvolvoR · Dec 2, 2019

Harlard said:
I used the Loctite. Same one Kenny uses. Can't remember the number off the top of my head.

strip it all back apart and put the pink stuff in there. I have heard of/seen issues on more than 1 occasion using not the pink stuff. JohnMC had constant issues with leaks until he spent $30 on the tube of Volvo OE stuff and used it.

culberro · Dec 2, 2019

I haz tube of pink goop.
I’ll can also find you (Harlard) some better o-rings, just gotta give me a spare one to measure.

oldschoolvolvo · Dec 2, 2019

I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-fkm-o-ring-48-x-2mm-price-for-1-pc/

I also used Loctite 510, which I take to be nearly equivalent (or equivalent) to the Volvo branded product.
(it is the higher temp of the 2 Loctite anerobic sealants, Loctite 518 being the lower temp variety)
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289411

culberro · Dec 2, 2019

oldschoolvolvo said:
I used these o-rings.
https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-fkm-o-ring-48-x-2mm-price-for-1-pc/

Thanks for that link!

JohnMc · Dec 2, 2019

RvolvoR said:
strip it all back apart and put the pink stuff in there. I have heard of/seen issues on more than 1 occasion using not the pink stuff. JohnMC had constant issues with leaks until he spent $30 on the tube of Volvo OE stuff and used it.

That's not for the valve cover - it's just between the head and cam cover - where pressurized oil feed to the lifters flows.

I used Volvo pink stuff a couple of times with no leaks. I tried the stuff IPD sells for less once, it seeped in several spots, until I pulled it back apart and used the pink stuff again.

My technique (same using the IPD stuff):
- get it spotlessly clean
- use rubbing alcohol to get the traces of oil out of there - clean and bone dry
- use a little foam roller to put on an even and fairly thin layer of pink stuff
- slap it together and tighten those 30(ish) bolts down snug, but not *tight*.

For the valve covers I'd just get everything clean, a touch of RTV here and there on the 'corners' (where the cam caps bolt onto the cam carrier and the VC humps over them). Then sometimes I'd install the gasket dry, sometimes I'd use some of that Indian Head shellac stuff. I never had much of a problem with the VC leaking either way.

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