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Coolant in oil, fresh build

So it was operator error installing freeze plug retainers, the bore is super thin at the bottom, core shift I guess. I punched a ~9/64" hole through the cylinder wall near the bottom of #3. I marked a line at the top of the piston at bottom dead center, the hole is a little over 14mm below that line which puts it in between the top ring and the the second ring at BDC. I have a whole welding dept at my disposal, should I have them zap it shut? They have high nickel and also steel rods. What about JB weld? There shouldn't be much cylinder pressure at the bottom of the stroke and I guess 12-16psi water pressure on the other side, depending on the pressure cap.. I got on the phone and forgot to take a picture. It's on the left side of the cylinder. I'm going back tomorrow to knock out the rest of the pistons and remove the crank and the rest of the stuff attached to the block. Unless I decide to JB weld, then I could start putting it back together. It's tempting, what do you guys think? It's going to see the oil ring and second ring sliding by twice every combustion cycle.
 
Is the hole below the bottom of the ring travel?

Maybe fix it like the britten 1000 guys did? Braze the hole up.
 
mikep said:
This will get the rust off.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-Bri...Hj87HzmFk6zKJ43n7jhoCp_MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...

Thanks, I have brown Scotch Brite too, I just figured he could run the hone down the cylinder. I'm really considering brazing or welding with these rods. It's sucha tiny hole and below the top ring, not sure how much pressure gets to the second ring.
https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Welding/Cast-Iron/NIC-L-Weld-59-Electrodes.aspx
 
My opinion: sleeve it, or find another block.
The cost of sleeving the one cylinder will be ~$150 or so.
The price of doing it right is pretty cheap, just makes doing it any other way seem like stepping over dollars to pick up a few pennies.
 
I agree. A sleeve will also take care of that thin spot in the wall.
Don?t use a scotchbrite in anything with bushings. The aluminum oxide particles ate impossible to get back out. I only made that mistake once.
 
VB242 said:
Do you have a recommended sleeve supplier? Darton?
Click to expand...

Federal Mogul (I think...) and LA Sleeve both make ductile iron sleeves that will fit a redblock.

There was a thread a month or so ago where there were part numbers and suppliers.
 
Here's the offending void, little orange dot, red sharpie is top of piston at BDC.
uHHfk99kn8Up7OPKwtYmi1W473sMePXCp2PtaDlxyaQZ1pHTUNYNCbLgCaDVRj6Nv5OoraKzEL5ZNZqOF9N6asdpuJiDuaCPwCcWFQ-5EBlfdZX9BV0POONEKoVreuqHNFkt7VK1Fko=w600
 
Sleeving, as already mentioned, is your best bet.

I don't know how often, or how poorly things are happening, but on my block, I split the wall about that far down. The cylinder bore thickness decreases as the bore descends into the block, via some steps in the coolant passages, and I got an inch(ish) long split way down low in the bore. I forget, but perhaps about that low. About the only thing I could think was that some errant detonation event happened with the piston down low and it popped the bore.

I just went and grabbed another junkyard motor and quickly stipped it down and took to a machine shop for boring, but a sleeve would probably have been cheaper. I just had some suspicions about the other bores. But in this case - there's no suspicion that any of the other bores might be damanged so a sleeve would be easiest and cheapest.
 
Having the same issue on my 940. Took apart the entire cooling system for the most part and found that the stock oil cooler was completely blocked allowing no coolant to come out. Hopefully it didn't do too much damage, but I'm gonna replace all the pipes and do a leak down test. I'll go from there. Just pisses me off this happens right after I replaced the head gasket.
 
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