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Yoshifab Catch Can or Provent Feedback?

Stock whiteblock oil trap is on the block, has coolant running thru the tubes and is always full of oil/sludge/water mix once something clogs... and they all do. Ill be looking into vac pump setup I guess. Appreciate the input. I'll dig thru my pics and post some off the oozing oil traps I've pulled off of customer cars. Normally for a CEL with dtc for air mass due to sticking (oil coated) throttle blade. The newer ones are very sensitive to any sort of blockage.
 
Stock whiteblock oil trap is on the block, has coolant running thru the tubes and is always full of oil/sludge/water mix once something clogs... and they all do. Ill be looking into vac pump setup I guess. Appreciate the input. I'll dig thru my pics and post some off the oozing oil traps I've pulled off of customer cars. Normally for a CEL with dtc for air mass due to sticking (oil coated) throttle blade. The newer ones are very sensitive to any sort of blockage.

whiteblock PCV service is routine maintenance on those cars and shouldn't wait till it gets blocked.
 
whiteblock PCV service is routine maintenance on those cars and shouldn't wait till it gets blocked.

There is nothing serviceable about the oil trap itself. The first few iterations ( -03 ish) of whiteblock Had a nipple on the intake you could remove and clear out. Does nothing to prevent the box itself from clogging tho. That is where the condensation collects. after 04 ish the nipple has the tube melted on and isnt removable for cleaning. Means box and at least the nipple are to be replaced if not the whole coolant heater tube assy. And they ditched any type of included oil trap stuff with the services around then. I'll peek at vida to see more exact chassis breaks or engine codes but once volvo started giving the services with the car there was almost nothing done other then oil changes and filters. I have been a dealer tech for 15 years and make a good living by taking oil pans down to clear the return out.
 
PCV is a generic term used and understood by most everybody who deals with cars. On a Smog Test Pass/Fail report it's a "PCV" entry for all cars regardless of specifics. Agreed, there is nothing Positive about redblock's venting but everybody knows what the other person is talking about. CV is for constant velocity in car talk. People will not change, man.

Heated catch can link: http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-Air-Oil-Separator-Return-AOS-R-P890.aspx
 
There is nothing serviceable about the oil trap itself. The first few iterations ( -03 ish) of whiteblock Had a nipple on the intake you could remove and clear out. Does nothing to prevent the box itself from clogging tho. That is where the condensation collects. after 04 ish the nipple has the tube melted on and isnt removable for cleaning. Means box and at least the nipple are to be replaced if not the whole coolant heater tube assy. And they ditched any type of included oil trap stuff with the services around then. I'll peek at vida to see more exact chassis breaks or engine codes but once volvo started giving the services with the car there was almost nothing done other then oil changes and filters. I have been a dealer tech for 15 years and make a good living by taking oil pans down to clear the return out.

The PCV services should consist of cleaning out the box before it becomes clogged or replacing it on a routine basis. Either will help prevent it from becoming completely clogged. The return passage in the block into the oil pan is an issue though. If one were to be servicing the system... i wonder if some shots of compressed air could help to keep that section clear.
 
The PCV services should consist of cleaning out the box before it becomes clogged or replacing it on a routine basis. Either will help prevent it from becoming completely clogged. The return passage in the block into the oil pan is an issue though. If one were to be servicing the system... i wonder if some shots of compressed air could help to keep that section clear.

Problem with just pushing that sludge into the pan is the oil picklup clogs in short order. We try to drain the oil after blowing thru the drain but we would really like to drop the pan and CLEAN the port out. You would be shocked at the clumps i pull out. The later setup ( engine code 59) does not allow you to clean anything out until either intake is off or pan removed. I've spoken to factory reps about why they moved away from having a nipple you can clear out like 850 s70 era 5cyl

The answer once volvo was buying the services they got stingy AF with the actual service work. oil change and peek at stuff maybe a filter... They just need to last long enough to get out of warranty and not have the EPA look any deeper. The P1 oil housing is a joke. So is Si6. Even the newest 4cyl VEP motors have issues. Alot of car makers are having ring issues as well. Everyone trying to make fuel standards by having low tension rings and inadaquate crankcase flow. Peek at my IG for the daily grind.
 
Problem with just pushing that sludge into the pan is the oil picklup clogs in short order. We try to drain the oil after blowing thru the drain but we would really like to drop the pan and CLEAN the port out. You would be shocked at the clumps i pull out. The later setup ( engine code 59) does not allow you to clean anything out until either intake is off or pan removed. I've spoken to factory reps about why they moved away from having a nipple you can clear out like 850 s70 era 5cyl

The answer once volvo was buying the services they got stingy AF with the actual service work. oil change and peek at stuff maybe a filter... They just need to last long enough to get out of warranty and not have the EPA look any deeper. The P1 oil housing is a joke. So is Si6. Even the newest 4cyl VEP motors have issues. Alot of car makers are having ring issues as well. Everyone trying to make fuel standards by having low tension rings and inadaquate crankcase flow. Peek at my IG for the daily grind.

I have processed a lot of RN 5 cyl oil pans for baffle kits so I know how badly clogged that drain channel can get. But yes, its important to get the chunks of hard oil out. I wonder if a vacuum + air shots could do it reliably.

Dropping the pan is definitely the right way to make sure its squeaky clean and definitely something that should be done to refresh those pesky o rings every 10 years or so.
 
Even the most f-ed up engines with 1/2" of solid carbon attached to every non-moving surface in the head tend to have fairly clean crank areas due to the volume and velocity of oil flung there constantly during operation. Sludge tends to build up in low-flow low-velocity parts of the engine without force-fed oil, eg breathers and some parts of the head. You have to really abuse an engine (think JDM engines, 200k miles with top ups only, if that) to end up with solid carbon in the sump, too. At least, that's the case with genuine PCV systems. The main thing here is to change and flush oil and run quality oils suitable for your usage patterns. High temperature due to high load? PAO/Ester synthetics, only. They just don't break down with high temperatures like dinosaur juice does.

Over here, euro stuff tends to get better treatment until the later part of its life when someone buys it cheap and neglects the maintenance. The sorts who can/do afford them new or near new tend to pay the proper people to do the proper maintenance for them.

On the other hand, flame traps are destined to block regularly, period. That's the worst of it, even if the oil separator box is half clogged, it still has ample flow (for stock power levels). Hence my favourite user on here: cleanflametrap :-D genius nickname for a Volvo forum.
 
Being that I just had to stuff a yoshifab in my 945 engine bay I struggle to think of a good spot to fit the Mann unit and still have it drain to the block. Our engine bays might be big but everything is a tight fit.

Either way yoshifab on two cars here but I will get some pics up of the Mann unit I am going to help install on a locals car.

rps20180505_123017_941.jpg
 
I was having the same thought. Don't think the Yoshi setup will even fit where you have it there on a 240, there's not that much room between the intake and the master cylinder.

As far as the provent, I was thinking over between the intake pipe and the abs pump. My (possibly bad) plan is to get one in hand and then try to show horn it somewhere. Would definitely appreciate to see how you fit it into whatever car you end up putting it in.
 
I'm picking out crankcase ventilation parts, so I figured I'd bump this old thread about the Provent. It looks really nice, and several of you have run one. My issue with it is that it only has one port in and one out. Has that been an issue for anyone? I was planning on venting the crankcase at the stock breather box location, the valve cover, and maybe the fuel pump cover. But it seems counterproductive to have those three vent hoses merge into one for the Provent. Any thoughts?
 
Being in the higher rev end often, in drift events, I too was looking to help the stock PCV.
Ended up putting another cheapo catch can between the stock PCV and the intake.
Problem solved. Works great.
 
The best thing for PCV on a redblock, it so actually have Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Stock they do not, which is why they have issues.
You want an air vent intake in the valve cover or oil cap, and the suction to be from the top of the breather box. Then to catch can. Then vacuum check valve to intake and then one to either in front of the turbo or to atmosphere.

The entire idea is to have a steady and somewhat metered flow of air going through the engine to remove oil mist and give the excess pressure somewhere to go.
Look at the plumbing diagram for turbo Japanese cars. They do it right.
 
The best thing for PCV on a redblock, it so actually have Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Stock they do not, which is why they have issues.
You want an air vent intake in the valve cover or oil cap, and the suction to be from the top of the breather box. Then to catch can. Then vacuum check valve to intake and then one to either in front of the turbo or to atmosphere.

The entire idea is to have a steady and somewhat metered flow of air going through the engine to remove oil mist and give the excess pressure somewhere to go.
Look at the plumbing diagram for turbo Japanese cars. They do it right.

I've thought about this as well. Volvo couldn't do it stock because they use a MAF, right? The pre-turbo vacuum line would be pulling in unmetered air through the air vent in the valve cover. At least I assume that's why they did it that way. But going with a speed density ECU, I'll be able to do that without worrying about it.

I'll look at some actual PCV systems and model mine after those. With a clean air vent, would you not be concerned with adding more ports than the single stock breather box one?
 
I just bought a little Ford EVAP pump to actually try and pull air through. Might set it up on a trigger so it only kicks on over 5lbs of boost or something... will have to play around with it.
 
I've thought about this as well. Volvo couldn't do it stock because they use a MAF, right? The pre-turbo vacuum line would be pulling in unmetered air through the air vent in the valve cover. At least I assume that's why they did it that way. But going with a speed density ECU, I'll be able to do that without worrying about it.

I'll look at some actual PCV systems and model mine after those. With a clean air vent, would you not be concerned with adding more ports than the single stock breather box one?

It all works out if the the PCV lines are after the MAF. Some of the Japanese turbo cars were MAF as well.
 
It all works out if the the PCV lines are after the MAF. Some of the Japanese turbo cars were MAF as well.

Ah, I get it now. The fresh air vent on the valve cover is just connected to the pre-turbo tube. I was thinking it had to be open to the atmosphere. So in cruising and high vacuum situations, it's pulling air from the pre-turbo tube, through the crankcase, into the intake manifold. Then under boost, the check valve shuts off the intake manifold from the crank case and the pre-turbo line draws the crankcase pressure out, but at that point there's no fresh air being introduced into the crankcase?
 
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