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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

The smaller TB diameter should not be a problem.

Have you also considered running some manual brakes and a balance bar or Hydroboost?
 
The smaller TB diameter should not be a problem.

Have you also considered running some manual brakes and a balance bar or Hydroboost?

I definitely don't want manual brakes. It's a street car, and I don't want such high pedal effort. I've thought a lot about hydroboost, but I don't have power steering, so it would involve rigging up an electric pump just for the that.
 
Add more scope creep with a Mustang 2 front end setup with rack and pinion power steering?

It has crossed my mind. And now that the engine is hanging on the frame and not the crossmember, it would be easier. But I don't really know what a Mustang 2 setup gets me over the stock SLA suspension on the 140. And when I do power steering, I'll probably do electric.
 
I have another non-update. The exhaust manifold was on hold while I waited for a stainless head flange. I got sick of waiting and just ordered a mild steel one, so I can start tinkering with that for real soon.

In the meantime, I got a hold of a Ford Sierra intake manifold. I'll need to make a Volvo head flange and have Noah weld that on, but other than that, it looks like it'll work.

This will roughly be the clearance from the plenum to the 7" brake booster i got. Should be good.

What booster????
How much fab work will you have to do to make it work?
 
I definitely don't want manual brakes. It's a street car, and I don't want such high pedal effort. I've thought a lot about hydroboost, but I don't have power steering, so it would involve rigging up an electric pump just for the that.

I thought a properly designed manual brake system is awesome as it provides several orders of magnitude of leverage with superior pedal feel. I was persuaded by what I’ve read to start collecting parts for that future delete. Tilton or Wilwood pedals.
 
What booster????
How much fab work will you have to do to make it work?

It?s one of those generic dual diaphragm 7? booster that Summit sells. I?ll have to cut the extension piece back a bit and weld a new flange onto it to accept the new booster. The stock master may work with the holes enlarged, or I?ll have to get a new one.
 
I thought a properly designed manual brake system is awesome as it provides several orders of magnitude of leverage with superior pedal feel. I was persuaded by what I?ve read to start collecting parts for that future delete. Tilton or Wilwood pedals.

Pretty sure a manual system is always going to have a harder pedal feel when compared to a similar booster system. There?s just no way to get better leverage without a longer pedal throw, unless you add some kind of assist.
 
I thought a properly designed manual brake system is awesome as it provides several orders of magnitude of leverage with superior pedal feel. I was persuaded by what I?ve read to start collecting parts for that future delete. Tilton or Wilwood pedals.

A properly designed manual setup will have great feel, but it will require more effort to stop. Most manual pedal ratios are 5:1 to 6:1. A stock 240 is 4:1 (really stiff) but then they add a 4:1 or 5:1 booster, so the total leverage ratio is 16 or 20:1.

Disconnect your booster and that will give you a good idea of what a full manual setup is like. It's not bad when driving aggressively (I prefer it) , it's just not fun in stop and go traffic or if your stopped on a hill.

Pretty sure a manual system is always going to have a harder pedal feel when compared to a similar booster system. There?s just no way to get better leverage without a longer pedal throw, unless you add some kind of assist.

You should try driving a car with properly setup manual brakes. If it has a street oriented pad, they're really nice. You just have to get over the habit of lightly pressing on the pedal to scrub speed. It takes some force.
 
A properly designed manual setup will have great feel, but it will require more effort to stop. Most manual pedal ratios are 5:1 to 6:1. A stock 240 is 4:1 (really stiff) but then they add a 4:1 or 5:1 booster, so the total leverage ratio is 16 or 20:1.

Disconnect your booster and that will give you a good idea of what a full manual setup is like. It's not bad when driving aggressively (I prefer it) , it's just not fun in stop and go traffic or if your stopped on a hill.



You should try driving a car with properly setup manual brakes. If it has a street oriented pad, they're really nice. You just have to get over the habit of lightly pressing on the pedal to scrub speed. It takes some force.

Yeah, that's what I don't want - high pedal effort. I get that the feel and consistency is nice with proper manual brakes, but most of my driving with this car is to and from work on mostly city streets. I'm actually hoping the 7" dual diaphragm booster will give me more assist than the stock 9" single diaphragm.
 
You could always do a hydro boost as well. I'm sure you could just use a electric pump out of a Volvo on it too and mount it remotely to clean up the engine bay. That is if you don't have power steering
 
You could always do a hydro boost as well. I'm sure you could just use a electric pump out of a Volvo on it too and mount it remotely to clean up the engine bay. That is if you don't have power steering

I'll get the 7" booster in there and see how things are looking. The hydroboost could be a plan b, but I don't want to a a pump and hydro system if I don't have to.
 
Wait! Tyler! you're putting a 16V in your 140? I want to do the same with mine. Following

Yeah, but it's a long way from running. I'm still mocking things up with the 16v head on the old block. Once that's all done I'll need to build the B230 block I have and at least freshen up the head.
 
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