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B230+T5 3k rpm shake

I think you're probably good to go. Was wondering if you had any adjustment that way.
 
I hope so! On the drive, I couldn't really feel much of a difference compared to what it was before but definitely good to know the distance is correct. I bought more washers to drop the CSB, it's going to be around 1.5 inches dropped if not more, a lot more than I thought I would need to. Kinda makes sense I guess when considering It was shortened 6 inches or so on the front shaft.
 
I lowered the CSB even further and the vibration is less but still there, around 2000-2500. It almost feels like it's pulsing if that makes sense. I haven't actually measured the angles yet I just keep lowering it a little at a time and seeing how it improves. It's difficult to keep your phone perfectly in line on the driveshaft and get an accurate reading. It always is jumping around. I may have lowered it too much actually, I'll see tomorrow when it's not dark.
 
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What's the easiest way to find this? My angles are still off after I lowered the CSB even more. The first working angle between the trans and the front shaft is 4 degrees, between the two shafts it is 1.9 degrees, and the rear shaft and diff are 0.8 degrees. I need to raise the trans a bit, I'm going to do that tomorrow. Also, I would guess all my readings are within a 0.3ish range, I'm not sure they are perfectly accurate but probably close enough.
What is the hertz frequency of the vibration?
 
Get a real angle finder, take the rear driveshaft out, set the car on stands so the suspension is loaded and level. Put the angle finder on the pinion flange and on the front driveshaft. Adjust until they are within 1 degree of parallel, with the pinion pointing down if anything.
 
The transmission output shaft also needs to be within 1 degree of these measurements right? If I do need to adjust the pinion angle what is the easiest way to do so? Wedges under the rear spring? Kind of clueless, never worked on suspension before other than replacing springs.
Get a real angle finder, take the rear driveshaft out, set the car on stands so the suspension is loaded and level. Put the angle finder on the pinion flange and on the front driveshaft. Adjust until they are within 1 degree of parallel, with the pinion pointing down if anything.
 
The transmission output shaft also needs to be within 1 degree of these measurements right? If I do need to adjust the pinion angle what is the easiest way to do so? Wedges under the rear spring? Kind of clueless, never worked on suspension before other than replacing springs.

You want the centerline of the rear driveshaft to be parallel to the centerline of the trans.

Change pinion angle with adjustable torque rods.

Sounds like you t5 guys should start looking into another transmission solution tbh

Y</a>EP
 
Brand new t5s suck as well. Haha

I'll disagree. My transmission isn't noisy, my car is though. T5z from modern driveline with probably 8k miles on it.

My big issue with the other boxes I see people grabbing is the gear ratios all suck. I'd rather have a bit of a heavy shift than a stupid short 1st and an over-overdrive top gear. I think gearing is really overlooked here, it has a huge impact on the real-world "quickness" of a car.

I did grow up driving SAABs though, so I have no particular obsession with shifter feel :lol:
 
I'll disagree. My transmission isn't noisy, my car is though. T5z from modern driveline with probably 8k miles on it.

My big issue with the other boxes I see people grabbing is the gear ratios all suck. I'd rather have a bit of a heavy shift than a stupid short 1st and an over-overdrive top gear. I think gearing is really overlooked here, it has a huge impact on the real-world "quickness" of a car.

I did grow up driving SAABs though, so I have no particular obsession with shifter feel :lol:

Couple points of disagreement here:

1. I know of several brand new T5Zs that were delivered with incorrectly set shaft bearing preload. If you didn't check for the magic .005" preload number you may want to pull it and check. Most of the noise coming out of my gearbox is load dependent which indicates less than perfect gear mesh.

2. If your shifter feels heavy and not precise and super nice, you have the wrong shifter :oogle: These transmissions don't shift like Hondas, but the throws and effort should not be much worse at all. Then again, the positioning and length of your lever plays a big role in this.

3. Ratios suck if your powerband is mismatched. Right now my 3.35 gearbox is way too tall with a 3.73 gear. The JK40C may actually be better suited. Then again dropping it into 2nd at 55 mph and not shifting into 3rd until 79 mph can be fun too, but only if I'm in the mood to tempt fate with the local police department.
 
Couple points of disagreement here:

1. I know of several brand new T5Zs that were delivered with incorrectly set shaft bearing preload. If you didn't check for the magic .005" preload number you may want to pull it and check. Most of the noise coming out of my gearbox is load dependent which indicates less than perfect gear mesh.

2. If your shifter feels heavy and not precise and super nice, you have the wrong shifter :oogle: These transmissions don't shift like Hondas, but the throws and effort should not be much worse at all. Then again, the positioning and length of your lever plays a big role in this.

3. Ratios suck if your powerband is mismatched. Right now my 3.35 gearbox is way too tall with a 3.73 gear. The JK40C may actually be better suited. Then again dropping it into 2nd at 55 mph and not shifting into 3rd until 79 mph can be fun too, but only if I'm in the mood to tempt fate with the local police department.

I'll replace the descriptor "heavy" with... mechanical. It's not a "snick snick" box like a Honda as you said, it's got a little more beef to it. It's a bit manly.

People have such a hard on for the cd009 and I think the spread looks terrible with a 3:73 or 3:91 rear. First is ridiculously short, and you have to shift all the way to 6th to get a .79 ratio which is the same as my close ratio five speed. I also think the t5's with a 3.35 first and a .63 fifth suck as well, though.
 
The 3.35 boxes (or the nissan 6 speed) don't suck as long as you have an engine that doesn't have a crappy diesel-like powerband in front (cough 8v) :whip:
 
My big issue with the other boxes I see people grabbing is the gear ratios all suck. I'd rather have a bit of a heavy shift than a stupid short 1st and an over-overdrive top gear. I think gearing is really overlooked here, it has a huge impact on the real-world "quickness" of a car.

Agreed, especially with a turbo car, but I also don't think a long 1st gear is much of an asset unless you're ripping up the side of a mountain. Similar thinking for a short 5th/6th depending on the gearing you go with. Close 2-3-4(-5) makes a big difference.

CD009 ratios would be fine and good with a long axle ratio and/or a lot of RPM. Your typical modded 8v will not have either of those things.

I'm sure the street cred points for having a 6th gear are a factor.
 
The 3.35 boxes (or the nissan 6 speed) don't suck as long as you have an engine that doesn't have a crappy diesel-like powerband in front (cough 8v) :whip:

the cd009 ratios are wrong for the average volvo rear end, same with the getrags. The only solution is a tall rear end like RBP mentioned, which I don't see many people here bothering to do.

I hate overly short first gears for two reasons: if I don't want to hit 6k in 1st every time I get really sick of shifting before I even get under the street light, most cars can't really build boost before you're just zinging off the limiter.

The .63 t5 boxes ain't got no alibi either, I know guys like it for making the car reasonable on the highway but it's certainly a compromise in outright performance. If I had a .63 fifth in my car and wanted to be at 4,500rpm right on the fun part of the curve I'd have to be doing 130mph :rofl: come on!

I shift out of fourth at ~125mph and then a .80 fifth shift puts me at 5,500rpm and screaming again with zero boost drop. It's lovely.
 
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