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140 Series Brake Upgrade Options

I'd double check the threads and fittings if I were you. Especially on a race car.

140's (and 164's) use 3/8"-24 inverted flare fittings. 240's use M10-1.0 bubble flare fittings. The threads are close enough that you can screw a 3/8" male fitting or hose end into a M10 threaded port but it's a loose fit.

You may have been able to tighten the inverted flare fitting enough so that it doesn't leak in the bubble flare port but it ain't right.
 
Have any of you guys tried sport brake pads? The stock brakes are really great on a 140 series unless you are racing. Having sport brake pads, some drilled or slotted rotors, and stainless flex lines will give you incredible brakes for the street. Use a good DOT4 brake fluid as well.

The next stop in my experience would be to follow the suggestions above to use vented rotors. But that would only be needed for racing or lots of mountain driving in my opinion.
 
Have any of you guys tried sport brake pads? The stock brakes are really great on a 140 series unless you are racing. Having sport brake pads, some drilled or slotted rotors, and stainless flex lines will give you incredible brakes for the street. Use a good DOT4 brake fluid as well.

The next stop in my experience would be to follow the suggestions above to use vented rotors. But that would only be needed for racing or lots of mountain driving in my opinion.

:lol:

Pretty sure Old Priest Grade in Moccasin will cook your 140 brakes vented or not unless you use engine braking.
 
A friend races with Triumph Dolomite Gr1. In his class there is a 70+ year old guy racing with 142S, he has and had to have stock brakes minus brake pressure limiting valve. First he had Feredo pads, but now he uses std Lucas pads. He is complete happy with those.

I would guess that brake bias on stock 142 is pretty safe and conservative. Stiffer suspension and modern tyres would allow much more braking power at rear wheels that was designed 50 years ago.
 
A little bit of an update...

The stock 140 (non-vented) brakes with no ducts and whatever pads came on the car are good enough for 6 full sessions at Road Atlanta running 1:49s.

Another issue I've run into is every lug stud on the car wanting to gall up and fail it seems. Since I have to replace them all I was thinking of redrilling hubs/axles to a bolt pattern I can get wheels for easily. But that also means needing different rotors... any bolt on rotors for another common bolt pattern that anyone knows of?
 
Bring on the Willwood brackets, I say.

The book shows different part numbers for the 140 front hub (solid rotor) and the 164E front hub (vented rotor).

Aside from the 10mm longer wheel studs on the 164E hub, are there any other differences between the 140 and 164E hubs?
 
The hubs are sold as an assembly with studs and bearings so there's a different part number for vented and non vented rotor hubs but the actual hubs are the same.

If you look at the 164 parts catalog you'll see the item number for the hub is circled. That means it's sold as an assembly. The part numbers after the hub in the catalog that have a dot before the description are included in the assembly.
 
I have a few Wilwood 240 setups ready to go. If someone sends me the parts for a 164, I could easily do the CAD on that as well.
 
I might take you up on that. The machine shop that made the prototype carved them up by hand so no CAD file exists. They were recently finished and AFAIK haven't been installed or tested yet.
 
In the setup that has been prototyped, would it still fit within small wheels? I'm not looking to go larger than 15" on this car.

If so, I volunteer as tribute to beat the crap out of a set on track!
 
I've been looking into options for ditching the stock brakes (and physical throttle linkage) in the 144 racecar. Looking at dual master cylinder pedal boxes with real proportioning and throttle cable provisions.

The pedal box isn't the hard part (measure and find one that fits and mount it) but I was wondering if anyone had seen/made brackets to adapt on a set of modern motorsport calipers. Rotors shouldn't be too hard, planning to get aluminum hats made with the right bolt pattern and hat height, rings are dime a dozen.

So... anyone already been down this path?
We have been endurance road racing the General Leif(1971 142 w/155whp), links in the signature) for the past 10 years and when we upgraded the front brakes we put 240 ATE front calipers on with the 164E vented front rotors. These rotors are not readily available anymore so we are actually interested in switching to something that's lighter and more available. Currently we use stock Volvo pads(240 front, Girling 140 rear) and they work just fine with our ducting, but don't last long enough with the rear brake bias turned up a bit. We can get 14-20 hours out of the front, but only 8-10 hours or so out of the back. Rotors last way longer than that, or at least, we run them way longer than that. We have also used Cobalt racing pads and they were awesome in addition to lasting longer, but they are more expensive and it's hard to say for certain if they make up for it. They might, and they do reduce maintenance time, for sure.

Someone sells a kit that will work with newer race type components(lightweight) but I haven't actually talked to him about it. We just found out about that on the Vintage Volvo Racing Association page Jim Perry started on Facebook.

VP has the rotors for a very reasonable price although they're only sold in pairs and the price is for 1.
Have you confirmed availability with them?

CVI and Skandix have them too.
Have you verified, or is that just what their website says? They may indeed be available, but we got the last ones off RockAuto a couple years ago and many other sites don't show them in production anymore.

164 vented disc with 240 vented caliper, only have to redrill hole for bolt in calipers, and direct bolt on
If I remember correctly, we had to shave off some of the mounting surface of the 240 calipers to get the alignment proper on the 164 rotor and we also had to make custom hard brake lines from the calipers to mate them to the 140 lines.
 
I think my current plan is to stick with the hardware I have.

1) Drill front calipers to run them as single line
2) Make new hard line from one outlet of MC to where the front hard lines split off and add a T fitting there
3) Fab up hard line to run from other MC outlet into cabin to prop valve
4) Run single hard line from there to where the rear limit valves are
5) Get flare-to-npt block to split to both rear soft lines

This should allow for an easy upgrade of the fronts down the road while giving me true bias control and simplifying the system for the time being.

Any big issues with doing it this way?
 
Wilwood brake update:

I have received the brake adapters for the Wilwood brakes + 164 rotors and they look great! The machinist that I used fabbed mine up by hand and said he will check with his CNC guy to see when he may be able to schedule a run of 4 or more sets.

I'm running 15" Panasport wheels and don't foresee a problem with fitment/installation. Unfortunately, my car is up on all fours(ramps) due to a custom 1pc driveshaft that I'm waiting to be completed. Hoping to have an update for you guys next week on how well these work. They are 4 pod setup for the front and I have 2 pod Wilwoods being installed on the rears.

Thanks
 
Are you using adapters on the rear Wilwoods as well or do they bolt on? Stock rotor back there, I assume?
 
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