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Correct Anti-seize for stainless Exhaust manifold studs

IansPlatinum

Active member
Joined
Jul 23, 2018
Location
Texas
I am having trouble finding my answer on here or the rest of the internet.

Folks, those who have installed stainless exhaust manifold studs, what anti-seize did you use on the stud going into the head?

I have Permatex "aluminum" (silver color, supposedly contains aluminum, graphite & maybe copper?) anti seize on hand.

Should I be using something different, or just send it with the aluminum stuff?

EDIT: please move, accidentally posted to wrong subforum
 
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The solid copper or solid graphite paste is what you want.
The gray is just for getting all over your clothes and tools.
 
Nickel anti-seize is for high temp applications.

I read that that's the good stuff. They don't have it in any stores nearby though. Maybe I can order on amazon.

I'll probably also go see if autozone has some copper antiseize
 
I'd suggest copper anti seize, but I would not suggest stainless exhaust hardware.
Maybe if we lived in Michigan, but here in TX I'm thinking the risk vs reward isn't there.
 
I read that that's the good stuff. They don't have it in any stores nearby though. Maybe I can order on amazon.

I'll probably also go see if autozone has some copper antiseize

I believe I bought mine from Autozone and they had it on the shelf. You can ask if they can get it from warehouse.
 
I'd suggest copper anti seize, but I would not suggest stainless exhaust hardware.
Maybe if we lived in Michigan, but here in TX I'm thinking the risk vs reward isn't there.

I already removed the originals, and the stainless replacements are already here :e-shrug:

The nuts are the copper ones FCP sells. aluminum & stainless corrode, but not in a catastrophic way. We do 1000hr salt fog testing on stuff at my work, frequently containing junctions of aluminum & stainless (5052 & 316 specifically). I don't think it has ever caused an issue in our application, which is sensitive RF equipment & will detect if advanced corrosion is present because it'll induce PIM.

And maybe this is one of those experience things where you'll end up being right, but I think the consequence of failure in this scenario is low.

Also the car doesn't just drive in TX ;-)
 
What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?
 
The stud coming out with the nut is from corrosion. The stud gets torqued to a spec if you are being careful. Tight enough to stay in there but not so tight it's jammed in the threads. Probably something low like 10-15ftlb as a guess. The anti seize being on there tends to make you over torque things so be careful.

I use the Wurth copper anti seize. Great stuff and the can has lasted about 20 years. The aluminum anti seize is good to low temp applications such as shock and suspension bolts.
 
What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

I think if it backs out when trying to loosen the nut, it's no biggie
Just remove nut & reinstall stud. I think the two reasons for being a stud for this application are
1: hanging of manifold & gaskets
2: greater chance of removal. if it's a screw, you must loosen the junction at the aluminum head & fastener. If it's a stud, there's two chance that it'll come off without stripping or snapping

and the stud has an unthreaded section mid-way that starts to snug up on the surface of the head. I think that's how contact pressure is achieved in the stud.

I just measured my old OE volvo stud and the unthreaded portion is 7.95mm OD, threaded is 7.83mm. So I wouldn't really bank on its presence having to do with anything related to diameter.
 
What's the right way to install studs, anyhow? Is there a way to keep them from backing out when you loosen the locking nuts?

Bottom out the stud then back it out a 1/4 turn. High temp anti-seize and new nuts every time. Always works for me.

I prefer the OE volvo studs over stainless for the exhaust side.
 
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