• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

is megaquirt still the norm?

36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100 - Going to have the wheel fully welded and balanced, tips from a racer that did the same thing and broke his wheel off once due to spot weld and broke the crank the second time due to balancing.
crank sensor $43
You''re sort of getting close to the price of the DSM CAS adapter - and then just snag the sensor at a junkyard for $10.

https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-redblock-dsm-cas-adapter.html

That is a powered sensor that makes very nice 'square' crank signals, and it has a cam signal as well. Which allows you to move to something other than wasted spark if you felt like it.

Of course, then you have to 'time' the intermediate shaft when you change the t-belt.
 
nice! A breakdown, because the way everything is so spread out, it makes it seem like you only need to buy a few things (admittedly I have most of that already).

I am going to stick with my v2.2, when I have enough money spare, I'll get the ms2 db (I'll have the money before I install the unit anyway). It also seems that I can run a VR sensor (with work, and not too pricey). And with some mildly daunting looking mods, I can run an EDIS system (can that be run with any 2 wasted spark coilpacks? Because those I can get from a friends crashed car), without the EDIS box, but with some bips. The tooth wheel is something I'll also ponder on.
 
You''re sort of getting close to the price of the DSM CAS adapter - and then just snag the sensor at a junkyard for $10.

https://yoshifab.com/store/billet-redblock-dsm-cas-adapter.html

That is a powered sensor that makes very nice 'square' crank signals, and it has a cam signal as well. Which allows you to move to something other than wasted spark if you felt like it.

Of course, then you have to 'time' the intermediate shaft when you change the t-belt.

damn yoshifab makes some sexy things, I already have a few of their things :D but they always make me drool
 
that's an optimistic list. the p&p setups I sell for 550 need a map sensor and connector to run (it includes a new air temp sensor and pigtail), so add maybe another 100 depending on what you get, and that's 650. On a budget, I'd just buy megaviewer, I personally have little use for autotune and only seldomly see people get it right. but it doesn't hurt to support phil tobin, he sells a nice product. (I do own a couple licenses for TS, and at least one for megaviewer)

if you want to go wasted spark from there, a set of LS coils can be had for $50-$100. a set of (8) plug wires is like another 40, and you've basically got wires for life at that point. keep in mind, we're talking volvo here not chrysler.

Like all things in life, there is a fair amount of "you get out what you put in" to be sure, but you don't have to go full ham. Starting from scratch I'd posit the things you need the most:

megasquirt (whichever one)
wide band
air temp sensor
map sensor (if not built in)
injector resistors (if injectors are low-z. alternatively, get high-z injectors from a newer volvo)

at that point, decisions can and probably ought to be made. wiring incidentals can add up as well, but on your average volvo those are the things I would consider most required. followed closely by megaviewer so you can get good logs from which to adjust the tune.
 
nice! A breakdown, because the way everything is so spread out, it makes it seem like you only need to buy a few things (admittedly I have most of that already).

My breakdown isn't for a Volvo, but a Turbo Dodge. And I wanted to replace the entire engine harness with new wires.

IMG_20170429_175724840.jpg


I can run an EDIS system (can that be run with any 2 wasted spark coilpacks? Because those I can get from a friends crashed car), without the EDIS box, but with some bips. The tooth wheel is something I'll also ponder on.

Stay away from EDIS. Some people have no issue, some do. Best to stay away.
 
Last edited:
megasquirt (whichever one)
wide band
air temp sensor
map sensor (if not built in)
injector resistors (if injectors are low-z. alternatively, get high-z injectors from a newer volvo)

at that point, decisions can and probably ought to be made. wiring incidentals can add up as well, but on your average volvo those are the things I would consider most required. followed closely by megaviewer so you can get good logs from which to adjust the tune.

I have all those things as it turns out haha, didn't realise how must stuff I had. I plan to just keep my old laptop in the car, as a constaznt display, as this is going to be for drift, so the runs are short etc.

My breakdown isn't for a Volvo, but a Turbo Dodge. And I wanted to replace the entire engine harness with new wires.

Stay away from EDIS. Some people have no issue, some do. Best to stay away.

It doesn't matter too much what casr it's for, the general idea, was just a general idea.

As for EDIS, you don't use the EDIS brain, or (as according to linuxman I think), you don't need an EDIS coilpack either. Does that fix the problem? I can't seem to find edis issues, without searching edis, and getting edis brain issues.

***danger to wallet***

oh my god!!! I plan to have my laptop in my car like that, and having that pop up, or as the desktop, would be so fun hahaha
 
As for EDIS, you don't use the EDIS brain, or (as according to linuxman I think), you don't need an EDIS coilpack either. Does that fix the problem? I can't seem to find edis issues, without searching edis, and getting edis brain issues.

My setup is 36-1 wheel to MS to QuadSpark to a 420a wasted spark coil. There is zero need for EDIS.

IMG_20171007_062550926.jpg

msspark.jpg

coil.jpg
 
My setup is 36-1 wheel to MS to QuadSpark to a 420a wasted spark coil. There is zero need for EDIS.

So I'm looking at what's in the quadspark, and turns out that it's edis without the edis, exactly like what I'm saying. Except for v2.2, msextra's documentation is completely there, and cheaper because I only need parts to run 4 cylinders max.
 
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms
 
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms

Sounds like a nice simple piece to use.
 
For easy and cheap wasted spark you can use VW coil pack: 032 905 106.
It only needs logic level control and is suitable to use with microsquirt.

Pinout:
1. Channel A
2. +12v
3. Channel B
4. Ground

Microsquirt settings:
Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
Spark output: Going High
Dwell time: 3-5ms

thanks man, I'm assuming you suggested it because it works with my setup too, so I went out and bought one :-)

The only thing left on my list is a cheap/easy VR sensor, and I just can't seem google the right words. Does anyone have any suggestions? Diyautotune only has hall sensers. Also, why would you run 2 vr sensors?
 
Last edited:
An '86 360, I'm putting an AQ171c into it, so I'm going to be doing a lot of setting up. (it has a renix b2 sensor on the flywheel, but I can't find what type of sensor it is either)
 
the renix is probably a VR sensor. since the engine is out you can put an lh 2.4 flywheel/flexplate on there and run the oem VR sensor. if you're hard up to fab something, I'd fab something with a hall sensor instead
 
the renix is probably a VR sensor. since the engine is out you can put an lh 2.4 flywheel/flexplate on there and run the oem VR sensor. if you're hard up to fab something, I'd fab something with a hall sensor instead

sorry, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you've said.

Doesn't the 2.4 use the same system? something like a 40-2, how would the ecu know when its tdc on cylender 1? or does that not matter with wasted?

I've done a lot of reading, and most people say VR is their choice, why do you say hall? I could attach a b234f dizzy with a hall in it, if that's what you mean? (but I also plan to put on adjustable cams gears) If it's a parts thing, I've already bought them, and the diagrams make more sense haha
 
sorry, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you've said.

Doesn't the 2.4 use the same system? something like a 40-2, how would the ecu know when its tdc on cylender 1? or does that not matter with wasted?

I've done a lot of reading, and most people say VR is their choice, why do you say hall? I could attach a b234f dizzy with a hall in it, if that's what you mean? (but I also plan to put on adjustable cams gears) If it's a parts thing, I've already bought them, and the diagrams make more sense haha

Funny enough I'm running the old Renix VR sensor from b200k with 60-2 dog dish.
IIRC the original flywheel had 2 areas of missing tooth so it's no suitable to use with megasquirt, correct me if I'm wrong?

With microsquirt we had that particular VR sensor cutting out around 4000 rpm. After this we adjusted more gap and could run ~6500 rpm.

Adding a 10k resistor between voltage and output line cured completely any tach issues. Car now runs happily to 7500+ rpm

Hall sensor should be more troublefree, but this is not always the case.

Are you planning on using and older megasquirt? Don't plug in the coil wiring before checking for correct ignition settings, YOU COULD fry the coil.

For MS1V3.0 use these settings:
Spark output inverted: NO
XUlnsOQ.png
 
Oh that's odd, all instructions say yes, thanks for the heads up, you saved me $66. btw ms1 v2.2, but will be ms2 soon, but still on v2.2.

When you say you "adjusted more gap"? Do you mean the resistor thing? Or did you machine the trigger wheel?
 
Back
Top