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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

Holly 302-1 oil pan and STS machining mounts.

I agree, a little more room would be nice, I talked with Scott about it a little bit. I put in a later model rack and gained a c hair more room now.

Sean

What huckster said. I have this exact setup.
 
Thx - lots of folks looking at the threads for ideas of how they wanna do the swap - so more data points about who did what can help others. I used a thinner oil pan and lowered my rack a little to let me get the motor a bit lower. And that helped with booster clearance as well.
 
Thx - lots of folks looking at the threads for ideas of how they wanna do the swap - so more data points about who did what can help others. I used a thinner oil pan and lowered my rack a little to let me get the motor a bit lower. And that helped with booster clearance as well.

Im not having a booster clearance problem its just lifting the trans higher for a more straighter alignment of the engine parallel with the car but with the rack being in like a 1/8" proximity it makes it much harder even with that thinner holley oil pant.
 
Also, nice Taco, 6spd? And I want your canopy.

Thanks,, its not what it looks like it is. Its a 4 cylinder 5 speed (SR) that I put all the suspension off a TRD, flares wheels and tires on. They were all take off's I got for less than $1,000 so it made total sense. Only thing I still need to add is a rear locker, the rear electronic limited slip works suprisingly well though. I dont love the look of the canopy but I sure love the functionality of it. I have a little over 20,000 miles in 8 months and not a single issue with it. Hands down the best little truck I have ever owned.

Hey! That is one great project man! Love it! Makes me want to start playing with my 242 aswell

ADam

Thanks Adam!!

I have booster clearance regardless of +5/-5 degrees

Pics? Not sure how you are having clearance issues there though, I can easily fit my hand between the two. I am at 3 degrees as well, with the old rack it just touched the pan, with the new rack I have less than mm of clearance. Neither are moving parts though so I am not worried now.

Just trying to point out the lower it is in the back, the more you move away from the booster.

True.

Zero time to work on the car the past few weeks and will be very little progress in the coming weeks. I did manage to pickup my newly rebuilt driveline from my buddy Brian in Portland, hands down the best drivelines anywhere. Had him use the heavy duty STS carrier bearing in it.



Powdercoated carrier crossmember and new hardware (Need fender washers still) all new hardware for the rear flange as well. Applied new undercoating to the rest of the underbody at this point as well. Its not perfect, but its hard to spray when the car isnt on a lift.





Rear brakes showed up at the parts place Friday so I am going to try and get those installed this evening if possible, I could even potentially get the Emergency Brake cables cut to length and hooked up.

Plan is to have a roller in the next 2 weeks.

Sean
 
Lookin' good! Share your thinking on a 2-piece vs. 1-piece DS on this one. Lots of people struggle trying to figure out which approach they want to take.
 
Lookin' good! Share your thinking on a 2-piece vs. 1-piece DS on this one. Lots of people struggle trying to figure out which approach they want to take.

I did not want to chop out the tunnel for driveline clearances. 2 piece allows you to clear that no problem. Yes its more moving parts, but also more strength in the tube itself. You can run a smaller tube diameter and thicker walls on the smaller diameter tube. If you want to go one piece, you are going to have to increase the tube diameter and run into even more tunnel clearance issues.

I am no driveline guy though. I am sure that others have widely different opinions than mine. Some hate the 2 piece, some hate the one piece, some hate the carrier bearing. I had a 2 piece in the F100 with zero issues.

Sean
 
I meant I don't have clearance issues regardless.

That makes more sense =)

After getting the wrong brakes the first time, then getting the run around from Wilwood about them being out of stock.....they showed up 2 days later. Been working on getting the right rear brakes for 2 months. But they are the right brakes!!

140-9219 is the Wilwood part number to put their non drilled 12.88 Spec 37 rear brakes on an 8.8 from a 31 spline ford explorer. Note that this axle has the new style Ford big bearings (Its not even remotely similar to a mustang rearend).

Instructions are terrible but they go on good enough.

Integral Emergency Brake fitted up with Lokar Emergency Brake cable.



12.88 slotted 2 piece Spec 37 Caliper and 4 piston Forgen Narrow superlite caliper.



Rearend is just about buttoned up at this point. I have to finish up the pass side brakes and safety wire all of the 2 piece rotors but the diff is reassembled, c clips back in, diff cover sealed up and final installed.

I am digging this pic.



I have wheel spacers for the front that will get it to a roller with the wrong wheels. Still need to trim inner drivers side rear wheel well to get the rear tires on, it will have to wait till sometime next week.

Sean
 
C-clips? Ugh....

I should clarify - I had a bad experience with c-clip retainer and a broken axle, so I avoid them if I can.
 
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