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240 1982 245 Warmup Regulator Inquiry

nuclearj

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2013
Hello All, I just got back from my mechanic and he said I could use a new warm-up regulator. I have a difficult time starting the car when it is hot outside.

The thing is, this particular model is rare and he is having trouble finding one for a reasonable price. He said there are two vacuum tubes or vacuum nozzles or something to that effect that separates the common ones from this rare one. Can anyone shed some light on this scenario and can anyone help me to locate one for around $250ish? Also, if someone has a part number that would help me tremendously. Thanks in advance!
 
Eighty-two? Bosch K-jet? Warm up regulator? That wouldn't be the Control Pressure Regulator by any chance? It is the K-jet equivelent of a choke. Hard starting when warm? Does it start fine in cold weather which is months ago. Rare one? There are a number of CPR versions in various engine and model year configurations but I would suggest that they are not all that rare.

Externally there is a temp sensor that drives the CPR heating element from cold to warm. If the sensor has failed that should have little affect in hot weather or hot engine.

A very simple device. Internally, the heating element works or doesn't. Voltmeter. About the only thing that fails is because of trash in the pressure valve to disk or the wire filter being clogged.

Don't be afraid to take it apart and clean it. It won't leak after you put it back together.

Check here for far more information than you want about the K-jet fuel system.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289775
 
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If you want to tackle ripping into it like TP suggests you might want to get the Bosch fuel system book by C Probst. It is a great book highly detailed and explains wonderfully!
 
If the car in question is a 1982 usa model kjet. It'll have the constant idle system, chrysler ignition, and an 079 control pressure regulator. This is the same one as the early 240 turbos so shouldn't be a problem buying a rebuild somewhere. I think the delorean parts place in Texas still does bosch kjet injection rebuilding. But also try cleaning it and testing the element with a meter to see it has proper resistance. I've had a clogged one that raised the control pressure too high. This made the engine lean when fully warmed up and hard to start when hot in my experience.

The 079 regulator was updated to 123 to give a longer warmup cycle. So the car can use either one.
 
partscannon.png
 
For just under $300 the Delorean Auto Parts will rebuild yours with 18 month warranty.
 
Thanks for all your replies! It is this one sold from Delorean Auto Parts:
https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/images/warmup-004-1.jpg

I wish I had the time to tinker and tool around with this myself, however, children, work, stuff happening in life... gotta go with my mechanic. It's okay though as they specialize in old Volvos. They get mine to pass emissions everytime. They even have a small yard of Volvos to pull part from. I will ask though if they have had a chance to try and clean it out too.

Anyhow, thanks again! Ya'll have been very helpful.
 
Even when the WUR/CPR is working as designed, and pressures in the system are normal, hot starts in hot weather can be problematic. Mercedes added a switch to pulse the cold start injector during hot starts. Volvo has a relay to do this, but in my car, I still have hot restart issues when ambient temps in 100’s in Georgia. Not all the time, just occasionally. All pressures normal.
 
The other hot start stuff that helps are the fuel pump check valve and the accumulator. The accumulator slowly dies from the inside. Once I had all three main things sorted out on my turbo the hot starts were normal.
 
Just wanted to give a quick update. I just picked up my car while we wait for the part. I got confirmation that my mechanic did do the pressure test and said it was not good. So that's why we're going the WUR route. Is there any easy stuff I can check while I have my car? I saw this one post about cleaning the distributor cap contacts and spraying some wd-40 in it.
 
Put the car up on stands and take a good close look at the fuel accumulator. If it is covered with rust and seems about to crack open or has fuel seeping from the vent hole. That is bad and you want to get a replacement. The accumulator is on the tray with the fuel pump. The end of it sticks out and that end has a small vent hose or it has a screw in it depending on the setup. This is where fuel will seep when the diaphragm inside fails.
 
Put the car up on stands and take a good close look at the fuel accumulator. If it is covered with rust and seems about to crack open or has fuel seeping from the vent hole. That is bad and you want to get a replacement. The accumulator is on the tray with the fuel pump. The end of it sticks out and that end has a small vent hose or it has a screw in it depending on the setup. This is where fuel will seep when the diaphragm inside fails.

Very cool. I can do this! Thanks.
 
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