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Stroker kit-non- penta

I am aware of all the challenges. I just am curious, of all the stroker setups mentioned here, Dave Barton is the only one I know of that is running. Could all of you guys out there update us on the progress of your setups?
My thought is to match a rod that is stronger than stock that is close to the size we need to a custom offset ground crank and use a piston with a long skirt to control rod position,but with a turbo dish and valve reliefs.

That said- if I could get a marine crank, it would be my first choice, so put me down for a crank if they become available. I already have an L block with squirters.
Thanks to all the guys who share info-PB, Dick Prince, etc.
 
For my stroker project:

I got a Penta AQ171C crank form ebay. You can find them there cheap but it takes some patience. I payed like $225 for mine with rods and chewed up pistons. The crank is forged too.

I will be using Penta pistons as well. I'm waiting to order them until I have the block bored (clean up) so I can be sure to get the right oversize. The CR is like 9.5:1 which is less than the B230f+t CR so I think it'll take to boost just fine. Penta pistons (AQ171C) have valve relifs cut already so it will allow use of a 16v head. AQ151C pistons are good for 8v applications.

I know this thread is exploring non-penta options but I think that Penta parts are probably the cheapest and easiest as they don't need modification. The avalibility is the only real limiting factor here but just keep looking....they are out there to be had.

I'm also planning on being able to swap stronger pistons/rods in at a later time.
 
Lol Phil. JB weld and a dremel.
Anyways what Phil is trying to say is that stroker and "tight budget" are in general a contradiction. The cost you pay for an extra 200-300cc's is such that it only makes sense if you have money to burn. Otherwise I would focus on improving breathing and engine management.
 
JB Weld on the crankshaft........Hmmmmmmmm..........

Dremel tools...........Well they have their place.

I'm interested in one of these cranks. 2.5 liters should be just the ticket for the Hornetcar....We will get that turbo back on boil just that much faster for.........MORE TIME SIDEWAYS!!

Note that I'm not worried about the rod/stroke ratio for the Hornetcar.......
It IS the Hornetcar for Chrissakes!!

Heehee.

JohnLane.
 
Hoggster said:
For my stroker project:

I got a Penta AQ171C crank form ebay. You can find them there cheap but it takes some patience. I payed like $225 for mine with rods and chewed up pistons. The crank is forged too.

I will be using Penta pistons as well. I'm waiting to order them until I have the block bored (clean up) so I can be sure to get the right oversize. The CR is like 9.5:1 which is less than the B230f+t CR so I think it'll take to boost just fine. Penta pistons (AQ171C) have valve relifs cut already so it will allow use of a 16v head. AQ151C pistons are good for 8v applications.

I know this thread is exploring non-penta options but I think that Penta parts are probably the cheapest and easiest as they don't need modification. The avalibility is the only real limiting factor here but just keep looking....they are out there to be had.

I'm also planning on being able to swap stronger pistons/rods in at a later time.

Can you tell me what the raised letter forging number on your aq171 penta crankshaft is? I'm talking to a boat yard engine guy that gets reconditioned crankshafts based on this number and not the part number.
 
jord9308 said:
My thought is to match a rod that is stronger than stock that is close to the size we need to a custom offset ground crank and use a piston with a long skirt to control rod position,but with a turbo dish and valve reliefs.

the turbo dish and valve reliefs are, from my understanding, fairly easily machined. (or at least, the valve reliefs are. hell i could machine them in my sleep.) but custom-offset crank grinding (especially if it needs to be welded, as well) get pricey, in a hurry. especially when you have to weld it, consider any good properties gained by forging and kiss them goodbye, less you also feel like paying to have the crank annealed and re-heat treated. :roll:
 
quick question...doesnt stroking out motors really help the rod to stroke ratio?

it goes from like 1.87:1 to 1.72:1??? for b21's and b23's and 1.92:1 to 1.7xx?
 
[/QUOTE]
Last piece would be stroker Marine crank. Despite many inquiries on this board and elsewhere, I cannot find a Marine crank, so I'm thinking an offset grind on a stock crank.
Any thoughts?[/QUOTE]


Sound Marine Repair 360 943-2226 Olympia WA
The guy has Penta parts coming out of his ears.
 
Weld and offset grinding is fine on a forged crank. Starting with a B21/23, that is no problem. They are rare in B230s. One advantage to doing this is that you can go beyond the 86 mm of the Penta 86 mm crank by 2-3 mm or maybe more if you want to push things to the limit.

Find out what your machine shop will charge you for this and then check again for the price of a Penta crank. Also ask the machine shop about welding and offset grinding a cast iron crank from any B230. Maybe they will say it really is not a significant risk.

I have a Penta AQ171 shortblock in Concord, NH, that I would sell for $500 local pickup. It was rebuilt, but never run and not stored properly, so it should be gone through again. It has the later thrust bearing location. The pistons are obviously cut for the 16V head. I have a couple of automotive 16V heads that I would sell as well, one of which is rebuilt and assembly lubed and wrapped up. And I have a 16V plain steel header flange that I would sell -- the same design as Dick Prince uses on his proven custom 16V turbo header.

Philip Bradley
 
Holy thread resurrection! Actually i have a Penta crank, pistons and rods i got off e-bay. It's a B series, tho, with center thrust bearing. I intend to use 13 mm stock rods, flycut the valve reliefs- I have a 16V piston to match(thanks Mike H!) and use a '85-87 center thrust block. I wish I had that setup you have, PB. Aq171C is the way to go.
I'm looking into sleeving a block, then having it bored to match the pistons I have. Picked up a good 16V head all complete and await some PZ cams coming from the UK(Thanks Dave, and Kenny!) This setup I have been thinking about since i joined this board. Hopefully it'll run before SE5.0

Still no answer to question- who out there has a stroker that is running besides Dave Barton? I remember you guys talking about Diamond pistons, JE, Crower rods,etc.,etc. So who has a running stroker?
 
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