• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

My '78 242 L33 turbo build

Are you going to refinish that gauge cluster? The surface finish of most 3d printed things is atrocious.

Depending on the printed material, there are a few chemicals you can use to smooth the build lines (ABS-> acetone, PLA->Tetrahydrofuran). Then it's just some high build or textured paint.
 
Its also about the resolution and nozzle size he is running. Here are some prints on our printer

40852788223_5461071a0b_c.jpg

47029686174_318c078f09_c.jpg


47029688044_dffcc04e37_c.jpg
 
That looks nice! I don't know how to finish it yet, and it was very expensive so I don't want to mess it up. Open to ideas of course. Culberra, not sure what that means, or how to go about it. I have acetone tho haha
 
That looks nice! I don't know how to finish it yet, and it was very expensive so I don't want to mess it up. Open to ideas of course. Culberra, not sure what that means, or how to go about it. I have acetone tho haha

Do you know what the material is?
ABS?
 
Bump for a couple goodies, R Sport repop gauge cluster with adapter for early dash and Stack Pro oil temp, pressure, and coolant temp gauges.

lBt9AbIl.jpg


Also got an Autometer boost gauge, and AEM wideband, but the wideband is currently installed in my brother Harley. Who reads plugs anymore haha, use a wideband

Got my 317 heads also. The best part is I can keep my 799 heads, and have a higher compression ratio until it's turbo time. Been going to my friends shop and working on whatever is there to clear the path for my car. This included head studs on a Ford Triton V10 :-( that sucked, and run far away from those turds. Next one should be fun though, Buick Grand National needs some love.

His stuff he posts of Facebook always looks meh but yet he asks a premium
 
Only game in town...it is well made, its just kinda shiny. I can guarantee its not going to break, that's for sure.

It is made from PETG.
 
So I had my '78 242 up on a lift yesterday and today for exhaust work and u-joint replacement. It is absolutely, completely rust free underneath. Every nut and bolt, panel, suspension piece, shockingly great condition. Seriously considering that the '78 242 should be the project car...
 
After talking it over with the boss :-P to make sure she wasn't too attached to the '79, I will be building the '78 and selling the '79....
 
Ya, after I found those, I can't think about other rims now haha. The only questions now are size and color.

Now to get the yellow one ready for sale. The brakes are a bit overkill for the engine and would be a huge pain to swap...have to install my refurbished gas tank and a few other items before its ready.
 
So I kinda threw myself outta wack with my build thread when I decided to change cars or "swap horses in midstream" as RWC said, I'll attempt to pull it back together now. A few pics of the "new" '78 242 that I will be building instead of the '79. It came with IPD sways and lowering springs, adjustable Konis, Enkie rimps, chassis braces, VX cam, and some other goodies. Porsche Viper Green. Exhaust is 2 Cherry bombs with Hooker glass pack tips, makes a noise the performance can not back up at the moment haha.

dzvitUnl.jpg


D0OrW4sl.jpg


lNMHKfdl.jpg


Getting the '79 ready for sale includes swapping the gas tank, the ears that hold the castle nut in are missing, and the filler neck flapper was mutilated so I did it the easy way and cut the filler neck off to drop the tank.

3iBS4I1l.jpg


Does this count as installed? I wish

7ic0YAfl.jpg


A couple gauges installed in the '78, needed the wideband for some diagnosis. Pillar pod does not fit well even after some trimming so I still gotta figure that out. You can see the back of the gauges thru the windshield, I stuffed some black rubber in there for a temp fix.

l2YIQ5Rl.jpg


The '78 had no windshield squirter action, the reservoir had no cap and was full of very stinky black water, squirter pump laying in there not attached to anything. Got cap, pump, new OEM nozzles, lines, etc. Still need to convert plug to the newer style, of course my man Dave Barton has the correct plug which will be here soon. I used stuff from my hoard to do this part.

oazFQ0Yl.jpg




I am still fighting with K Jet to make the '78 driveable, but that's another thread, where I have gotten a ton of great advice.
Swapping the interior to brown, and have a nice bin of parts to start with.
Enough for tonight, thanks everyone for all the great advice and support!
 
Some news, I scored a big brake kit for this car, I got a Z17 kit this time. Respect due to Homer for creating the adapters and instructions, this swap is documented on Davebarton.com. For those that don't know it consists of Brembo 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears. This came on Porsche Cayenne/VW Touareg SUVs. I got Powerstop drilled/slotted S60R rotors, and Powerstop Z26 Street Warrior carbon fiber pads to fill them. Mustang GT master cylinder with Wilwood extension, etc...kit cam with mounting adapters and rear brake hoses, but no banjo bolts or mounting hardware. For anyone else who does this, the thread pattern for the calipers is the same as the R brakes, so you can use R front and rear brake lines. This isn't documented anywhere, I had to try it out.

I had to buy a 12 ton shop press to get the dam pad guide rod outta the calipers. Warning to anyone new to shop presses (This is my first one), everything needs to be super level when mounted in the press, not easy on a caliper. Only use short pieces to push on things with.. I tried to use a punch in the press to push the pin out the first time and luckily I was at least smart enough not to stand in front of the press, as the punch shot out and stuck itself in a box about 5 ft away. I ended up pushing on the retention bolt because I am replacing all the hardware, so who cares about the bolts threads...

Cigarette pack for comparison:

zQkoOpDl.jpg


240 rear brake pad for comparison haha

goNma1cl.jpg


What it took to remove the pad guide pins from the front calipers :grrr: sounded like a gunshot when it let loose.



Other news, been waiting on my buddies shop to let me in for moral support on adjusting the K Jet, but giving up and gonna do it on my own. I looked at the dwell adjustment screw, the plug is AWOL so a PO has been screwing with it, no wonder I have a problem.
 
Back
Top