84B23F
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2008
- Location
- Kansas, USA
Do CTS ohm meter and ground checks, before flipping...
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here
Thank you for being a part of our community!
Assuming the block is well grounded to the frame, when I directly spec out the CTS, the reading shouldn't change, if at all, when I ground at on the block, chassis or negative battery terminal. The spade connector on the CTS was looking awfully oxidized. Not looking forward to replacing any grounds if they're bad
If those readings are correct, that is a huge problem. I question whether they are correct. That would make the car run so rich you might not even be able to start it. Even if you could start it, the car would flood all the time. It would also make the ECU throw a code for a rich condition. You said in the post above, no codes.
Edit:
You are supposed to be measuring resistance between pin 13 and ground. Not between pin 5 and 13. That likely explains the reading you got.
...spade connector on the CTS was looking awfully oxidized
Remove CTS's plug, then do an ohm test at LH harness....if infinity (Zero), leave CTS unplugged, reinsert LH harness, and start engine.
If the control unit receives a signal higher than 302F (150C) or lower than -40F (-40C), it will interpret the signal as a fault...the control unit will assume a substitute value corresponding to 32F (0C) on starting and 68F (20C) when the engine has started."
Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
...good intentions on the Brickboard..