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1973 142 - The Stepchild of a Stepchild!

Nice work!

For the tubing, I don't know the proper name for this, but i used it on the crankshaft position sensor wire cause it started to disintegrate:
 
I broke down & just ordered some vinyl tubing from Dave Barton. I have the new D-Jet plugs & boots from Hi Performance (Eric & Ian), so I'll just redo the harness.
Scope creep.....
Focus on cleaning up the clips, brackets, and front wheel wells tonight, then get the crossmember reinstalled tomorrow night.
 
I broke down & just ordered some vinyl tubing from Dave Barton. I have the new D-Jet plugs & boots from Hi Performance (Eric & Ian), so I'll just redo the harness.
Scope creep.....
Focus on cleaning up the clips, brackets, and front wheel wells tonight, then get the crossmember reinstalled tomorrow night.

It'll be worth it. Clean wiring is the best. I'm actually really glad I didn't realize Dave sold the vinyl tubing, or else I would have re-done my whole harness.
 
No pics because I left my phone in the house, but I redirected my energies into finishing the shop.
We moved to St. Louis last summer, into an old 1888 house that the previous owner added a 30X40 CMU garage with a 2nd floor.
Unfortunately, he passed away before rely completing it, so there was one outlet and a couple of incandescent lights for the whole thing. On the plus side, it has a 100 amp panel with a separate meter. Also, it's not insulated and there are no roof vents. Needless to say, it's cold in the winter & hot in the summer.
The first thing I did after we move in was to install LED fixtures. They only had 5 at the time, so I did the "work" side of the garage. Still need to do where we park the cars.
Then I decided I was tired of dragging hoses & extension cords around while working on the car, so I ran new conduit and galvanized air piping, and built a workbench.
Now I have power for my parts washer and air for my sandblast cabinet.
I used the sandblaster yesterday on a few things and painted the oil pan, flame trap, and the water pump pipes.
I also primered the crank pulley, and sanded the radiator shroud. I'll get those guys finished tonight.
Dave Barton's vinyl harness covering arrived about a week ago, so that's on the to-do list, along with painting the inner fenders so I can actually get the front crossmember reinstalled.....
More pics to come.
 
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Transmission rebuild. Ordering new synchros & the locking rings from Hi Performance. Need to remove the output cover so I can finish the disassembly, but decided to clean & repaint the gearbox case. It was noisy & leaked, but functioned fine. Need to clean some of the paint that dripped thru the selector rod holes. Oops!
All of the gears look good, figured while it's apart the synchos are cheap enough, and the retainer springs sound like wear items so I'll change them also. I need to call Hi Performance Monday to pay them.

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Transmission rebuild. Ordering new synchros & the locking rings from Hi Performance. Need to remove the output cover so I can finish the disassembly, but decided to clean & repaint the gearbox case. It was noisy & leaked, but functioned fine. Need to clean some of the paint that dripped thru the selector rod holes. Oops!
All of the gears look good, figured will it's apart the synchos are cheap enough, and the retainer springs sound like wear items so I change them also. I need to call Hi Performance Monday to pay them.

Nice work! Way to take your time and do things the right way
 
Synchros & the springs arrived from Hiperformance. I screwed up & only order 3 synchros from some reason. Eric has mailed out another, hopefully it arrives on Monday.
No pics, but Wednesday evening I froze the rear bearing & baked the cover that Eric sent to me at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes. The bearing dropped right into place.
Yesterday evening I took the input shaft & new bearing to a shop near the house & had the bearing pressed onto the shaft.
Today I reinstalled reverse gear and the selector arm, installed the input shaft, & the intermediate shaft. Then I assembled the main shaft as far as I can until the syncho arrives. Should have the gearbox finished Monday night.

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Disassembled the head, then took apart the rocker arm, gave it a deep cleaning, removed and replaced the shaft freeze plugs, oiled it all up, then reassembled it.

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Then beadblasted the injector holders and the fuel rail.

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Progress!
Front crossmember, steering gearbox, and idler arm have been reinstalled!!

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Inner fenders cleaned and recoated with truck bedliner.

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Going to go back out to the garage in a bit to install the tie rods, centerlink, and the brake hoses.
Also going to repaint the IPD swaybar later, clean the bushings & endlinks, and get it installed after the paint dries.
I've been using Summit's Chassis Black paint. I like it a little better than Eastwood's, plus it costs less and they ship for free if you order enough.
 
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As I mentioned in an older post, I had ordered some tie rods and other items from Rock Auto that had were on clearance at the time. It was the last tie rods that the had in stock and a good deal to boot. They were Beck-Arnley brand, who used to repackage a lot of NOS parts or use good aftermarket suppliers. Figured they would be better than some of the modern Chi-Com parts.
Went out to install them, and guess what.....
They are both left hand tie rods. Damn! I never paid attention.
Oh well, IPD to the rescue. Should have the correct passenger side one in about a week.
 
I had posted in the past about how the original D-Jet wiring harness had been previously repaired, and I plan on redoing it. I thought about what I could do to install a multi pin connector of some sort instead of just splicing the wires.
I did some googling and came up with these:

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Painless Wring offers several sizes from 2 wire to 15 wire connectors. They come with male / female connectors and the connector pins. I bought a couple of 12 wire connectors. When finished, it will be similar to the connection for the main engine harness on the latter model 240's.
I'm going to run to Lowe's 1st thing in the morning to pick up a pack of wire labels so I can cut the wires and label them, and make sure they mate up correctly.
 
Haven't updated this in a year. Wow!
Finally decided to go out and assemble the M40 gearbox today. Got it back together, I hope it's right!
I will go out a little later and install the shift rods, shift balls / springs, and the shifter cover. No pics, there are plenty online of M40's.
Good news for my other car, a 1966 Buick Wildcat convertible..... I'll be picking up a pair of nice rust-free fenders for it tomorrow evening.
More to come. I plan on taking the block & crank to a local shop next week also, to check them out and let me know what I need. I also need them to remove the oil galley plugs, I could not get them out. Hopefully it comes back that I can use standard pistons, I picked up a set from Rock Auto on clearance last year ($50!). They are Beck-Arnley, which used to rebox high quality parts.
Steve
 
Installed the shift forks and rods, and the shifter cover with a new tunnel seal. The tunnel seal is for a 240, but should work on my late 142.
I think it's time to clean off my work bench. Now the this is back together, I'm going to put up some shelves and an LED light below them.
I'm also going to make a cradle for this, I'll use some plywood and 2X4 so I can bolt it to it and put it on a shelf till it gets reinstalled. Then I hope I did everything correctly!

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Scored a vintage AMCO leather shift knob off of Ebay. They're quite a bit pricier than back in the early 80's when I worked at European Car Parts in STL.

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Not much has been going on recently, so I decided to do some work on the car.
Rebuilding the auxiliary air valve. Component & reassembly picks coming tonight.

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Steve
 
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