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Old 04-22-2015, 01:39 AM   #11
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LloydDobler's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: PDX

Finally, I got off my butt and got some motivation. Winter has been long and cold, and I've put all my efforts towards parting this out and maintaining my other cars. But tonight I notched the oil pan. It went pretty well for harbor freight jigsaw blades and a $5 garage sale craftsman jigsaw. I only broke 3 blades and made the saw smell funny towards the end. I still need to clean things up with an angle grinder but overall it's ready to be welded back up.

This side was sort of a straight cut.

And here it is laid in there, as far forward as it can go.

Here's the control arm nut clearance, all I need to be able to do is get a box end wrench on it and pull the bolt out the front so this should be fine.

I kinda wish I'd only notched this side rather than taking it all off. I lost about a half pint of oil capacity and screwed up the cut as well. I'm sure we can patch it when welding day comes. Maybe I'll put a large box outboard to add some of the oil capacity back in. On the one hand it's wasted space, on the other hand it gives great clearance for a big downpipe.

Another view of the control arm clearance. I'll probably lift it a bit higher than this.

Now I have tons of clearance at the firewall, and I've been studying the engine. All I need clearance for back here is the crank position sensor, and I think I have plenty. I should be able to actually change it with the engine in place and everything.

And still lots of room up front. I don't think I can use the front mounted oil cooler adapter though...

Here's the oil cooler adapter I was talking about. It'll hit the steering toe link if I try to use it. I'm not worried though, I can mount a cooler on the oil filter mounting location, or plumb one in to the turbo lines, whatever I need.

So I was motivated enough that I spent the rest of the night stripping crap off the motor. I'm very optimistic about the way this is going to fit.

And exhaust side, all that's left is to figure out how to remove that water pipe. I'll be using a modified 960 pipe anyway.

And looking at the back of the motor, there's the torque restraint, the crank position sensor, and one heater hose that needs a 90 degree fitting. I don't even need to seal up where the distributor used to be, it's already sealed. I will get the factory cap that goes in the hole just to keep dirt off the seal though. Ignore the spark plug wires, those are going away.

Weather's supposed to be nice tomorrow too, it was very pleasant working in my garage tonight, didn't get all sweaty. I have a lot of cleaning up to do. There was still some coolant in the motor and some oil in the turbo so those made a mess. Plus there are parts everywhere that I need to organize and box up or put in the scrap pile.
'66 122 - Collectible project
'06 V70 2.5T - Mostly Stock Daily Driver
'03 C70 T5M - Modded summer fun car
'05 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car
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