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Old 05-10-2015, 08:03 PM   #14
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LloydDobler's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: PDX

Happy Mother's day. My mom is 1300 miles away so she gets a phone call. Then I work on car.

So since my last update I finished stripping the motor. I was hoping to have my pan welded up and seal tested but my welding buddy has taken on dozens of jobs and then decided to vacation to Costa Rica in the middle of it all. I don't want to get oil or coolant on anything to be welded, but I want to make some progress. So I wrapped the pan in cling wrap:

Bolted it to the motor, silly but hey the last thing I need is leaky welds due to contamination and welder whining.

So without much further ado I dropped the thing in. It fit about like I expected. I'm resting it on a piece of 3/4" wood on the crossmember. This sets the angle correct as well as gives me clearance that I'm looking for. I mean 3/4 over the crossmember should be enough right? It's almost perfectly balanced there. Without that engine hanger it rests on the firewall, but only two fingers of force to tilt it forward. I did it this way so I can jack the car up and check things from underneath. I put a piece of string down from the center of the cowl to the center of the grille to make sure I had the axis right.

Looking down at the crank bolt I'm nicely centered there too. Maybe 1/8" off at the most.

Clearance for control arm:

Plenty of clearance on the exhaust side, lots of room for a custom manifold, all well above the control arm bushings.

A different angle of the clearance.

And at first I thought it might be too high, but it's easy to forget how high the hood goes in the front. This is one of the main differences between a 122 and an 1800. An 1800 hood will hit the motor if you don't dump it down low enough.

I'm gonna have to move this brake line here for the exhaust clearance.

So on to the intake manifold. I'm figuring on using the ME7 manifold due to the bottom inlet.

Plenty of clearance!

Especially if you lightly bend the brake line over. I think I'll have enough clearance here for any brake master cylinder I want, even if I go dual circuit from the master down. It also clears the steering by an inch or more. I'm not sure why other swaps have trouble with this clearance, maybe they don't lean it over as far, or drop it down as low as I am.

Plenty of arm clearance for access to the alignment bolts. This is very important to me, as even the stock carbs make it a pain in the butt to adjust the alignment.

The view from the front. I have to fit a throttle body, starter, and PCV or catch can in here. I think I'm fine.

Oh crap. This is something I thought I'd have plenty of clearance for, but in this case it's wedged in there in the wrong orientation. I definitely have to source a smaller alternator. This will be a custom mount/adaptation that I did not plan on.

So I'll probably put the turbo somewhere around here:

It's way up high, I'll have to put a heat shield over it

Exhaust access isn't bad, again blocked by the brake line. Brake lines are easy enough to run.

I could also mount it a bit lower if needed, but again I'm focusing on using the space offered by the high bump in the hood, and allowing for lots of room below to run intake hoses and get access to the alignment bolts. If all I have to do is pull the intercooler hose to get in there, that's about perfect.

Side view of the lower mounting of the turbo. I will of course be re-clocking the CRHA and cold side. The straight flange hotside is about perfect for my setup, and at this point I'm running ME4.4 for engine management so I've heard this hotside works better for that, it restricts spool a bit.

So this is great news, easy access to the cam position sensor.

And decent access to the crank position sensor, it's the blurry mount past that plug and thin hose guide.

A bad camera angle but I think I have the motor farther forward than I originally planned, but that's fine. I might have to trim the end of the control arm bolt but in the end I'm happy with the fit of everything.

And a nice closing shot of the basics. Engine management will either be in the battery box or under the dash, I might invert the battery box to mount the electronics up high there behind the glove box (well, it's a tray in this car) .

So far so good, fun day with only one real surprise from the alternator. Also I can see I'll have to hog out the tunnel quite a bit from the beginning, the bell housing I have isn't going to fit in there right now at all. But I'll play with that next time.

Next steps are: Start designing motor mounts (I'm not using the stock basic rubber), start designing exhaust manifold, get a 960 thermostat housing, and source possible alternator candidates. That'll be enough for now. It won't be long before I pull that heater box and start chopping up the tranny tunnel.
'66 122 - Collectible project
'06 V70 2.5T - Mostly Stock Daily Driver
'03 C70 T5M - Modded summer fun car
'05 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car
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