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Old 10-05-2016, 11:19 PM   #13
Moard Bember
Orange_Crusader's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ontario, Canuckistan


ABS/TRACS can be re-soldered yourself (I've done 5 or so modules now) or ordered fixed/upgraded as it's kind of a bitch to get the halves apart without plastic carnage at first, even with a lot of exacto persuading. Watch for noises/clunks from the bevel gear (right behind the tranny) and clunks from the rear end (where the 'diff'/freewheel is). The tailgate panel mounts will be broken, I've made an overkill-sized and jb-welded fix after 2 ipd kits from some flashing. About 90% of the car can be disassembled with a 10, 12, 13, 17 and 18mm socket/wrench set, and a ton of torx screws. Heater cores are easy to do, oil lines/thermostats have an annoying bolt for a bracket to reach, and the turbo coolant drain which is usually difficult to see/access may as well be in Narnia in its nook on top of the diff and under the cold side. Most of the rest is typical p80 issues, 190k isn't a lot of miles to spoil it but neglect is a very strong deteriorating factor for these cars.

Rear brakes are annoying to get parts for (rebuilt calipers are cheaper than slider pins), nivomats can last a long time (mine have ~480k km's), front right axles are unique to AWD, and the driveshaft is unique in each year of 98-00, not swappable between years due to a different center mount. Top torque mounts go as fast as regular p80 cars, and mine consumes rear pads near 2:1 to fronts. I've replaced a few awd-unique bushings, mostly pressed in with a bottle jack in-situ and while they sucked to do it worked out with a semi-well equipped home garage/shop. Having VADIS available (if you can) is a huge help as there isn't a ton of p80 AWD repair resources out there. Swapping turbos/its drain is an annoying job the first few times due to the hilarious inaccessibility of the turbo oil drain. It's super-snug back there, but I'm rebuilding mine as a precaution despite it having minimal play and no oil consumption so IME there hasn't been a reason to pull it yet. I figure mine is towards the outliers of 98 R reliability, but the car commutes year-round, works like a pickup truck (have hauled engine/tranny combos, 600+lb of logs and bricks, etc), and sees its share of winter drifting (yes, it will kick the back out and hold it there) and is holding together like a champ.

Mine burns no oil (somehow), has very little blowby (top end sucks glove in with pcv test), but I have replaced front hubs, a steering rack, front struts/assemblies twice, radiator, refinished the driveshaft (center carrier fell apart causing vibration while driving, I filled it with urethane), replaced the subframe bushings, done the tie rods and control arms and have has both lower suspension links rust clean through (due to the plastic sleeve on them), along with a few dozen other bits and pieces. If you've got any questions, shoot.
Lead Sled 98R AWD

Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
You're just jealous that you don't have a van to rape goats in, not that any of you can prove I raped a goat anyway.
Originally Posted by badvlvo View Post
And if the bolt is broken in there you have a problem and should consult a bottle of scotch.
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