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Good to know! So is that '99 engine I found that much different? Too different to work?
Drilling holes? No biggie! I'm a hardcore DIY cnc machinist. Currently searching for a good VVT thread on VS and will post here when I find it.I wouldn't do it. Definitely not worth the hassle for that engine. You have to drill holes for the dist cap, and there are a couple other things needed (there is a write up floating around on VS somewhere).
Yeah your LPT engine is fine, and you abuse it. I have no fear of running mine at stock-ish boost, I just wonder if the T5R tune will work perfectly? Or at least good enough that I won't notice any weirdness? I do not want to get a chip or anything at this point. Daily daily daily daily daily daily daily daily daily. Cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap.He is planning on DD'ing it anyways.
And to contradict the 2.4 vs 2.3 statement, I have ran 19lbs on my 2.4liter... with a k24. And I have had spikes of 20+ on my 16t.
That's exactly what I'm suggesting, keep the 850 T5R intake and throttle body (and everything else aside from the longblock) and use the '99 V70 GLT engine with the VVT not hooked up. It just seems like, of my two choices at that yard, this is the better choice as far as gambling goes. This one is sealed, whereas the '97 is missing the fuel injectors and probably has water in the cylinders.It will, but you will meed to change the intake mani. 99+ cars have electronic throttle. I'd swap a glt motor in, their torque monsters.
Nope.Sweet score man. Does this mean you might start making parts for 850?
HtownTurboBrick said:just drill the camshaft to accept a rotor, and do some hose routing for the power steering pump, porting the manifold to match the intake ports on the block (not necessary but when in rome) and if you ever want to use the new style spark plug cover then rerouting the fuel hardlines that go across the top of the motor.
Johann said:Then there is the VVT part. You'll need a locked VVT unit, a special made fixed pulley or an exhaust cam from a single VVT NA engine to make it run without VVT. Solenoid connection needs to be blocked which can be done with a plate with the same bolt pattern as the solenoid, more or less the same procedure as a CBV blocking plate.
Chilled Man said:already have that in the works / figuring custom made gear for the end on the exhuast side made to the same dimensions of the VVT but looks like a non vvt and just a simple peice of aluminum over the valve cover where the VVT selinoid would go
Dongle said:As far as blocking it off goes, I know you can just disconnect the solenoid on the VR motor without any problems. I believe it has to be blocked on later engines or it will move.
Johann said:I test fitted an old style cam sensor to a new type head and it fits but like said there needs to be made room for the wire coming out of the sensor in the bracket holding the upper engine mount. There is room for it between two bolt holes.
And think about the intake ports.. Totally different shape..
ajhehr said:the cam sensor, cap and rotor bolt up HOWEVER you must drill out the end of the camshaft slightly. It is still threaded but the shoulder of the cam and rotor plates is a small amount larger then the holes in the cams. I was able to do it with a hand drill and incremental snuck up on the desired ID.
The pre VVT manifold will need to be PORT MATCHED not gasket matched unless you are planing on doing a P+P/full gasket match. I took a stencil from the head and overlaid it onto the manifold and got to cutting.
Earlier fuel rail, lines and metal vacuum line (that go over the Timing belt) were retained, but could easily be re run to install the later R plug cover.
98 accessories were all used. including the thermostat cap as it had the nipple for the expansion tank and the VVT's have them on the top of the radiator. no brace for the upper inter cooler pipe is installed as of yet, hasn't been a problem but the addition of the 00R upper pipe and stay would alleviate this.
00r timing cover required some notching to clear the 98 tensioner.
later model oil pan and oil cooler lines were retained.
He is planning on DD'ing it anyways.
And to contradict the 2.4 vs 2.3 statement, I have ran 19lbs on my 2.4liter... with a k24. And I have had spikes of 20+ on my 16t.
Quoted from a VS thread for my own reference, regarding swapping a VVT engine into an older car:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/127212-why-build/page__st__20
Is your current motor built? Don't you have some work done to it?
Either way, I'd rather go with a 2.3L for longevity sake.
Here is the VS write up on the 99+ motor swap:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/116127-the-ultimate-budget-build/
Your stock tune should work fine with the motor IIRC.
one of the texans on VS made a cnc center to replace the vvt part of the cam gear. i searched, but the search over there blows chunks.
Yup, V8 powar. Ha! No.Now you know what you must do. The 242 needs a new engine with a couple of extra cylinders.