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My new yellow 850 T5R, ARRRRRRR!

I don't think John plans to mod it much at all...

But I can agree to that... and I'm speaking from a bit of hefty experience. :-(
 
I don't think John plans to mod it much at all...

But I can agree to that... and I'm speaking from a bit of hefty experience. :-(
 
I wouldn't do it. Definitely not worth the hassle for that engine. You have to drill holes for the dist cap, and there are a couple other things needed (there is a write up floating around on VS somewhere).
Drilling holes? No biggie! I'm a hardcore DIY cnc machinist. Currently searching for a good VVT thread on VS and will post here when I find it.

He is planning on DD'ing it anyways.

And to contradict the 2.4 vs 2.3 statement, I have ran 19lbs on my 2.4liter... with a k24. And I have had spikes of 20+ on my 16t.
Yeah your LPT engine is fine, and you abuse it. I have no fear of running mine at stock-ish boost, I just wonder if the T5R tune will work perfectly? Or at least good enough that I won't notice any weirdness? I do not want to get a chip or anything at this point. Daily daily daily daily daily daily daily daily daily. Cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap cheap.

It will, but you will meed to change the intake mani. 99+ cars have electronic throttle. I'd swap a glt motor in, their torque monsters.
That's exactly what I'm suggesting, keep the 850 T5R intake and throttle body (and everything else aside from the longblock) and use the '99 V70 GLT engine with the VVT not hooked up. It just seems like, of my two choices at that yard, this is the better choice as far as gambling goes. This one is sealed, whereas the '97 is missing the fuel injectors and probably has water in the cylinders.

Still gotta check out other yards.

Sweet score man. Does this mean you might start making parts for 850?
Nope.
 
Quoted from a VS thread for my own reference, regarding swapping a VVT engine into an older car:
HtownTurboBrick said:
just drill the camshaft to accept a rotor, and do some hose routing for the power steering pump, porting the manifold to match the intake ports on the block (not necessary but when in rome) and if you ever want to use the new style spark plug cover then rerouting the fuel hardlines that go across the top of the motor.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/127212-why-build/page__st__20
Johann said:
Then there is the VVT part. You'll need a locked VVT unit, a special made fixed pulley or an exhaust cam from a single VVT NA engine to make it run without VVT. Solenoid connection needs to be blocked which can be done with a plate with the same bolt pattern as the solenoid, more or less the same procedure as a CBV blocking plate.
Chilled Man said:
already have that in the works / figuring custom made gear for the end on the exhuast side made to the same dimensions of the VVT but looks like a non vvt and just a simple peice of aluminum over the valve cover where the VVT selinoid would go
Dongle said:
As far as blocking it off goes, I know you can just disconnect the solenoid on the VR motor without any problems. I believe it has to be blocked on later engines or it will move.

Johann said:
I test fitted an old style cam sensor to a new type head and it fits but like said there needs to be made room for the wire coming out of the sensor in the bracket holding the upper engine mount. There is room for it between two bolt holes.

And think about the intake ports.. Totally different shape.. ;)

This thread is great too, very informative: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/116127-the-ultimate-budget-build/
ajhehr said:
the cam sensor, cap and rotor bolt up HOWEVER you must drill out the end of the camshaft slightly. It is still threaded but the shoulder of the cam and rotor plates is a small amount larger then the holes in the cams. I was able to do it with a hand drill and incremental snuck up on the desired ID.

The pre VVT manifold will need to be PORT MATCHED not gasket matched unless you are planing on doing a P+P/full gasket match. I took a stencil from the head and overlaid it onto the manifold and got to cutting.

Earlier fuel rail, lines and metal vacuum line (that go over the Timing belt) were retained, but could easily be re run to install the later R plug cover.
98 accessories were all used. including the thermostat cap as it had the nipple for the expansion tank and the VVT's have them on the top of the radiator. no brace for the upper inter cooler pipe is installed as of yet, hasn't been a problem but the addition of the 00R upper pipe and stay would alleviate this.
00r timing cover required some notching to clear the 98 tensioner.
later model oil pan and oil cooler lines were retained.
 
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Sweet score John! I definitely endorse a manual swap while you're at it.

Now you know what you must do. The 242 needs a new engine with a couple of extra cylinders. :oogle:
 
He is planning on DD'ing it anyways.

And to contradict the 2.4 vs 2.3 statement, I have ran 19lbs on my 2.4liter... with a k24. And I have had spikes of 20+ on my 16t.

Is your current motor built? Don't you have some work done to it?

Either way, I'd rather go with a 2.3L for longevity sake.

Here is the VS write up on the 99+ motor swap:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/116127-the-ultimate-budget-build/

Your stock tune should work fine with the motor IIRC.
 
On a stock car, the LPT bottom end with the existing 850 top end and computers/sensor arrangement makes for a real nice runner.

Fuel efficient, torquey, responsive...sort of like a +T or putting a B23 bottom where a B21 bottom went on a K-jet 240...been there done that. It isn't "correct" but it works, and it works right. LPT engines are dirt cheap and can be found in non-tired condition more easily...this is important when shopping with used junkyard stuff...it is well...used.

Rebuild the head when doing a motor on one of those cars, and be picky about the bottom end condition. JL is familiar with those too. 200K and most of the turbo whiteblocks are all worn out if neglected. The breather system also likes regular attention if cheap oil is used.

One LPT +850 top and all accessories done that way on a stock 850 is still going 160K later just fine. The car was hit and examined again. Nothing seemed overly worn and it held up as well as any 2.3. I wouldn't dispute that a 2.3 is the stronger motor. I know that the LPT 2.4 works fine and holds up if done right too though.

They are definitely a real nice improvement for a driver. GL with it. Freshen it up nice and it will do well, especially for reliability and comfort.

I skipped over late volvos, I'm tired of volvos in general...for a driver anyway. I thought about it though. A break is nice. I ended up deciding that apart from the wagon feature, other brands have caught up and/or surpassed volvo in quality, reliability, comfort and safety. I may come back.
 
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I just saw that before you posted it and saved the pics, that pulley would be easy for me to make. But it sounds like a lot of people are saying you just need to remove the solenoid and make a blockoff plate? That's even easier. One guy even said he just unplugged the solenoid with no ill effects.

James, great advice! But I'd rather not crack this motor open, that opens up a whole laundry list of maintenance and rebuild items that I'd rather plug my ears and ignore.
 
Cool. Well, good luck with it. I hear you on the put a motor in it and be done with it for a driver.

I've just seen lots of heads need work on those. Aluminum head rebuilders does a ton of them in town here and has great turn around time on them and doesn't seem to mess them up...guides, valve job, clean and surface and out the door and back on the car.

Many times a guy can replace the whole motor though. 850 LPTs are also out there and work well as a swap complete....
Yeah, you can mess with VVT gears and intakes, but at some point your time is worth something. Given one can choose from a T5 or LPT 850, that should be enough choices and makes the hardware line up easier and looks stock when checked out to re-sell the car (also important on a driver). That way you can still sell it when you want a newer nicer car.

Ideally, one would find a real nice mechanical 850 LPT or T5 donor with good oil and seals (98 and older 70 series works super easy too IIRC). Check and replace any seals and breather and put it in and be done. Timing belt is also very straight forward with the motor out of the car hehe.
 
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I forgot to mention that the guy I bought it from was the first owner, bought it brand new here in Toronto. And although we salt the roads like crazy here and cars rust out in a heartbeat, I believe the car has spent most of its life in Seattle and Texas, which is why I can't find a spec of rust on it anywhere! The paint isn't perfect by any stretch, but it certainly passes the 10 foot test, even the 5 foot test, which is better than my 242. I think the trunk has faded or something because the spoiler is a brighter yellow and the trunk is more along the lines of faded butter. Ohh well, I'm still in love. And its filthy right now, so a good wash and wax could do wonders.
 
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