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Hackster's Lifted T56 swapped 940

It makes sense now. If you need another set of axles, speak now. I have that 940 headed to the crusher this week. They were already pulled out to yank the G80 for Robert. They are just holding the car up in the air on my trailer.
 
Time to get a big propane heater and destroy a set of rotors.

I think a proper torch with a big rosebud would work the best to loosen up the adapter to the hub.

It makes sense now. If you need another set of axles, speak now. I have that 940 headed to the crusher this week. They were already pulled out to yank the G80 for Robert. They are just holding the car up in the air on my trailer.

I hope I dont need another set of axles.....I cannot remove them though until I get the adapters off. Its not a pressing issue right now though, I can get to it when I have some free time.

Drill a hole to relieve some of the press fit? Or drill two holes and tap em with a bottoming tap and use some bolts to push it off?

That is the other option I have thought about. The fronts actually had a tapped hole to remove them from the hub with a bolt to press it off, worked really well and yes they are that tight of a fit.

I stopped by Ashers place last night after work and we took a look at the hard start. It looses fuel pressure as soon as the key is turned off. We believe its a faulty check valve in the fuel system, likely a piece built into the top hat of the fuel pump assembly. I think I am going to try and put an inline check valve in the system and see if that cures it and then go from there with pump removal.

We also adjusted the idle down and it seems to run just fine, I would like it a little higher but understand its up to the IAC motor to do its job and if we raise it up any more its no longer the IAC doing its thing.

Messed around with the cruise to see if we could get that working and came up with the idea that when the auto was removed there is no longer an open circuit when the car is in drive. Found the blue and pink wires connected together in the console, put some connectors on them, started the car, disconnect and boom!! Functioning Cruise Control.

I need to get a switch for the clutch pedal and all will be right in the world. It needs to see that circuit closed to start the car, yet it needs to be open to operate the cruise, smart way of doing things.

Clutch pedal switch, open in the up position and closed in the depressed position will accomplish all of these tasks.

Knocking out the issues one at a time, this thing is gonna be dialed in no time at all.

Sean
 
You just need one more vacuum switch and the jumper circuit to complete your cruise system. I don't think the vacuum switch bracket is on the 7 series pedal set for the clutch pedal unless the car was built with cruise. It is just a simple L shaped piece of sheet metal, IIRC.
 
I always like to update a thread. I managed to get the last little bits of this thing buttoned up last night. Built a bracket to hold the switch for the clutch pedal and wired that in. Its a pretty neat circuit. Has to be Closed to start the car but has to be open for the Cruise to engage. So simple but works well. Now you have to depress the clutch pedal to start the car and the cruise works exactly how it should.

Installed some grip tape on the pedals.

I'm curious, why is there rubber pads on brake and clutch pedals on cars? Am I the only one that hates the feel of wet shoes on rubber? Its the same reason I hate all weather floor mats. Just seems like there could be a much better way to have sure footing on the pedals....like something actually grippy. Just saying.

Cars done, buttoned up with all the spares in it ready for its new home back up in Washington.

Been a super fun project and a great driving car.

Onto the next one....

Sean
 
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