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1977 Volvo 242 project-Ford 302 swap

Pressing these Super Pro bushings in = not fun.
 

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This is really the only rot on the car. That said it?s pretty horrific, and the contours are going to make it hard to make from scratch. Anybody got a parts car 242 they want to cut this section out for me? Long shot...yeah.
 

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Today has me discouraged about using this b6304 from the 960. I pulled the majority of the wiring harness out, but to convert this to stand alone for the 242 is overwhelming. There is just so much wiring. I need to take a step back from that and continue to work on the chassis...there is still plenty to do.
 

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Don't be discouraged by wiring. Landing wires from injectors, coils, etc to the ECU is easy. Making it pretty can be time consuming. Tuning is my current issue.
 
Don't be discouraged by wiring. Landing wires from injectors, coils, etc to the ECU is easy. Making it pretty can be time consuming.

+1

I'll suggest you get the actual wiring harness for your 242, and the other for the 960 engine management. Work between the two wiring diagrams to determine exactly what needs to be connected. I want to believe that the vast majority of the cabin wiring, climate controls and such, simply need 12V, fuses and grounds to continue to function as designed. Where your marriage of systems will get complex is the dash cluster and connection to the engine. Getting speed, rpm functional with your ancient analog instrument cluster will present some challenges.... but has been done many times.

These projects are like eating an elephant: cut off a piece, chew, swallow.
 
I'm happy to share the Google Sheets doc I made that identifies what each wire/pin in the 960 harness goes to is for. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it would save you the scut work of figuring out what each pin is for on the two ECU connectors. I also have the PDF of the manual that include the wiring diagrams if you don't have it already.

Everybody else is right. I got intimidated by the wiring on a K-Jet to EFI swap I did years ago, kind of my first big car project, and when it came time to actually do it, it just wasn't that bad. You already put the effort in to get the whole harness out of the donor car, that's probably going to be hardest part.
 
I'm happy to share the Google Sheets doc I made that identifies what each wire/pin in the 960 harness goes to is for. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it would save you the scut work of figuring out what each pin is for on the two ECU connectors. I also have the PDF of the manual that include the wiring diagrams if you don't have it already.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. thatcher.hubbard, I have a link to a Google drive that has tons of wiring diagrams and pinouts...I'm assuming that must be yours. Great info, thank you!

The engine and engine bay harness seem very reasonable. What has me baffled is where the engine bay harness connects inside the cabin to the computer and branches off multiple times to another fuse panel, several relays, and everything else in the interior. Sorting through and separating that has me overwhelmed. The amount of wiring under the dash is insane. I guess if I just concentrate on the M4.4 pinout wiring, that will simplify things. Then I can figure out how to mesh it with the 242 wiring and go from there. In the back of my mind however, I'm asking myself if this is all worth the 181HP at the end of the tunnel. I'm going to continue as planned, but I am exploring other drive train options. Thanks guys.
 
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If you have a link, it's probably not mine, I hadn't shared it with anyone yet because I don't consider it 100% complete. I'd be real interested to see what you do have as a check on the accuracy of my own.

It's true that the difference in the total amount of wiring between the 240 and 960 is pretty massive.

I think that trying to figure out the full path of each wire to begin with can be confusing because of all the intermediate connectors, so I focused on just figuring out what was at the each end and I'm working backwards from there in terms of figuring out what gets cut and re-pinned into my firewall barrel connector.

I knew that in terms of horsepower per dollar, a +T on my existing B230F would be a better deal, I just wanted an inline six. You could always +T that like Broke4Speed has done.
 
This is the link I have, found it on this forum. If you have anything greater, let me know. I can't have enough diagrams.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6pyJeQUq390ZTQzM2ZiZDMtYmExMi00ODAyLTkxYjItZWM2M2YxZDRhZTVk

I'm like you, I wanted this smooth inline six...thought it would be neat in the 242. This is my first Volvo and a step out of my comfort zone. I've been a muscle car guy all my life, but needed to broaden my horizons a bit. I just absolutely love the early 122, 142, and 242 so here I am.
 
Just in case anyone wondered what the interior only wiring looks like from a 960, stuffed in a paper box. :lol: Regardless of what I use off this, I'll have a lifetime of quality wiring and connectors.
 

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rear end locker

Hey Igot my locker and i am already working on it. It took less time to take it apart than what i had expected. Oil was stinky and cruddy so i washed the inside with brake cleaner. Hoping next week to begin reassembly and installation of the locker into the 1031 hosing including new shocks and lower control bars welded just like yours. I am a welder so is a walk in the park
take care and nice job.
DZ
 
Hey Igot my locker and i am already working on it. It took less time to take it apart than what i had expected. Oil was stinky and cruddy so i washed the inside with brake cleaner. Hoping next week to begin reassembly and installation of the locker into the 1031 hosing including new shocks and lower control bars welded just like yours. I am a welder so is a walk in the park
take care and nice job.
DZ

Sounds good, thx! I'm looking forward to swapping in the G80 I pulled at the junkyard. I'll get to it one day soon hopefully.
 
I started working on the rear axle I pulled from a 1990 240 at the junkyard. I got it so I could run a G80 locker. Pulled it all apart, it seems to be in real nice shape inside, with 3.73 gears. Something funny I noticed when pulling the axles out though, the axle bearing races I could slide out by hand. That seems very odd to me, however they didn't spin in the axle tubes.

Edit: Looks like that's normal for these Dana axles.
 

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Finished up the G80 swap today. Had to cut roughly 3/16" off the passenger axle, but I expected that from what I've read. I'm so impressed with my Milwaukee saw and Swag table. It cut through the axle so easily. Installed new inner seals and repacked the wheel bearings. I just need to power wash the axle and it's ready to go back under.
 

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