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Chris Wiita's 1995 960R

The car is gorgeous and im really glad you decided to compile everything in this thread...makes it A LOT easier...although...still not easy :)...cant wait till its all tied up!
 
I'm bumpin this ride!

And I'm slackin on the thread update:-D

Updated the brakes. Its still broke and slow though, primarily because my switch to MSII means I have to re-tune and ****. Also, a hot-start issue has reared its ugly head, and my gut instinct is that its a fluid/mechanical issue with the fuel rail vapor locking. Hooray. Maybe not though. Also, I don't have anything with a reliably fast serial port, so some things drop data while burning, so I have to be especially careful that I don't hose anything. On the plus side, I'm done with all the mechanical **** I wanted to do (read: the brakes) so now I can just tune, and polish the goddamn tuning (****er still hates starting)
 
Updates, I guess. HIDs! Also, the car runs beautifully currently, revs nice, misfire free, it's solid. I'm maxing my 46lbers at 95%dc at 15psi right now. That's the last mechanical change on the list, bigger injectors that aren't 20 years old (and will fit nicely in the rail!). The only nagging problem right now is hard starting--what's causing this is a weak VR signal, so sync is inconsistent at cranking speed. My battery is crapping itself, so it cranks at such a low speed, that might be the issue (~150rpm), as it improves greatly with my battery booster attached. Moving the sensor close to the wheel fixes the cranking, but then it overloads and resets above 3 grand, heh. So I need to improve the sensitivity, ideally, to really knock that out. The injector upgrade, some street tuning/beating, then I'll get it on a dynopak...
 
The only nagging problem right now is hard starting--what's causing this is a weak VR signal

I am sooo tempted to skip the crank VR and set up a hall sensor... have you considered this? I think we talked about it...

It would be easy to just remove the little aluminum bracket form the back of the motor and modify it..
 
I am sooo tempted to skip the crank VR and set up a hall sensor... have you considered this? I think we talked about it...

It would be easy to just remove the little aluminum bracket form the back of the motor and modify it..

Yah. Hell thats why my car wouldn't start most of the time. Old starter. 2.4 wouldn't like a Hall sensor that much though.:-P
 
Yah. Hell thats why my car wouldn't start most of the time. Old starter. 2.4 wouldn't like a Hall sensor that much though.:-P

"Cherry" makes a sensor that looks close to a good fit. We discussed it before, it can be found on digikey, and sells elsewhere for like, 37 dollars.

I have had decent luck with Cherry sensors in industrial apps, I am going to give it a go.
 
A hall would help, I guess. Mine works right now, because of a more lenient code that will allow up to three missed syncs before starting over with the counting
 
"Cherry" makes a sensor that looks close to a good fit. We discussed it before, it can be found on digikey, and sells elsewhere for like, 37 dollars.

I have had decent luck with Cherry sensors in industrial apps, I am going to give it a go.

I have been running with a Cherry sensor of some sort for about 6 months now. No problems with it at all. It is the sensor I use on my 36-1 EDIS wheel. Just to give some experience. The sensor doesn't come with shielded wire. Either add your own shielding, or cut the wires down close to the sensor and run your own shielded multi-conductor cable. I am still running around with Chipotle burrito wrappers on mine, and its working well. I need to rewire that sucker sometime.

----edit-----
By the way chris. I like your project thread format with links to all the important other posts. I may have to steal the idea for my project thread sometime when I have energy to track down all the scattered stuff.
 
while it isn't a bad idea to shield it, the hall sensor's square wave digital output is not nearly as sensitive to noise vs. a VR sensor, so it's not a huge issue.

The one I am talking about comes either flying lead or with a connector though, might just get the one that uses a connector and wire my harness to that.
 
Yeah, I have the flying lead one. And my car would hardly run with a VR sensor because of noise issues, until I very carefully shielded and played all the grounding games you can imagine. The Hall senor was supposed to be an improvement for the very reasons you state. But, my car wouldn't rev past 1500 rpm until I wrapped the wires in aluminum foil. Just an observation.

while it isn't a bad idea to shield it, the hall sensor's square wave digital output is not nearly as sensitive to noise vs. a VR sensor, so it's not a huge issue.

The one I am talking about comes either flying lead or with a connector though, might just get the one that uses a connector and wire my harness to that.
 
This car is soooooooooo cool! God I haven't read anything about it for a while and I just did. Wow.

(please dont go to the 850R bumper...)
 
Bitchin ride :-)
Ps. you need to fill up the gaps where you used to have your wiper arms for the front lights :-)
Also, what about getting someone to paint the IC, so it looks like you have the OEM front bumper? would be LOL, I think.
 
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