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Mike K's '79 242 Barn Car Revival

DSM meaning the CAS thing on the aux shaft or something different.

Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...
 
Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...

Right now I don't really have anything suggesting I have an issue with the input, but it is something I'd like to try and validate as part of this exercise. Might need to find a friend with a scope.
 
Yes,

He was using a haltech so its a little different but he had a specific RPM issue and he couldn't find any problems in the logs, he changed from the stock sensors to the DSM CAS thing and the issues went away.

I think I heard of some people using a hyundai sensor or something in place of the stock bosch flywheel sensor...

Ben -
Are you saying that there is a Hyundai sensor that has the same physical size that goes in the same place as the stock sensor? I hadn't heard that.

Someone else had suggested that Mike check the sensor gap, which is thinking along the same lines of loosing signal quality.

Might be worth checking with your custom-ish flywheel, I don't know if the OD of the wheel where the 60-2 is drilled is the same as a stock Lh2.4 wheel, though it is the same setup you had originally and did not have this problem???

With the injectors eliminated from the list, you're left with something weird with intake, or CPS, or wiring related, or, the MS box itself - I think everything else has been eliminated. It could be that we're looking at logs of what MS is sending out, but not actually seeing what the injector or coil is receiving.

You'll figure it out.
 
There's a certain BMW sensor from an earlier 6 cyl that is plugs in place of the volvo sensor, and has a stronger magnet. I'd go hunting for that one. it's at the front of the BMW engine mounted to a trigger wheel.

If you'de like some help with tuning, that'll be fine too.
 
Figured I'd copy Tom and do an "end of season" bump.

As is usual I spent most of the Summer and Fall just driving the car. I have about 1,800 miles on the new engine and it has worked out great. I've been running a conservative 16lbs of boost and it feels stronger than the old engine at 22.

Eeuroparts had a Fall meet, me and Eric had the two 242's there. He's getting ready to do a whiteblock swap.

GuZslu3.jpg


Most of the work I've done on the car has been incremental improvements and minor repairs, stuff not particularly worth documenting. I did put a set of Yoshifab engine mounts in it because my poly mount was deforming and actually bending the metal plate (torque!). Yoshifab fails to mention that they send two mounts of the same height, so the passenger side ends up ~.25" shorter than stock. On my setup this leans the header even closer over to the strut tower so I had to space it up and deal with clearance issues with my wastegate bracket. IMO it's pretty lame that this was glossed over in the item description, I've since figured out what the engine mounts are originally meant for and I'm not very happy with how much I paid for them. The other thing is the car was actually quieter inside with the poly mounts. They transmitted more vibration, but the way the rubber mounts transmit at a different frequency has turned the dashboard into an absolute buzz box. I have to get into it and try to pad all of the rub spots.

4UjLSlg.jpg


just a shot I liked while I was on my back
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As I've lamented to some length, I've been fighting a stubborn lean swing around 3k-3300rpm. I've had several people review logs and have visited some local tuners, none of whom were able to get me anywhere. I went around and around doing the mechanical validation, even going back to the stock intake manifold to make sure it wasn't an airflow issue. I started talking with Bobxyz and we got thinking about injection timing. I did some fiddling in TunerStudio and as ever the AFR behavior didn't change. I then took Bob's suggestion to try running semi-sequential injection instead of 2 squirts per cycle simultaneous. I did that just this morning and for the first time I'm within half a point of my target AFR at 3200 rpm. The tune still needs a lot of work, but the change to semi-sequential fuel has been the first thing I've done which has had any effect on the area so I'm encouraged that I am now on the right path.

It's about time to park the car for the winter. I've been getting things together and working on my plan for this year's upgrades. My main initiative is going to be finally getting a hydraulic clutch in the car. I got a steel flywheel and six puck clutch from Yoshifab (the cam is the same RSI stage 3 I'm running now, I just bought it to have a spare available). I'm going to do it with a 262 clutch pedal, a Wilwood master cylinder, and a Tilton hydraulic release bearing. I decided to go with the hydraulic bearing because I want to eliminate the whole clutch fork/pivot element from the equation.

0pdyhZO.jpg


I'm also going to do some more interior work. My Recaros need some foam in some of the bolsters and one has had a rip in the lower bolster since I bought them that I want to finally repair. While they are at the upholstery shop I'm going to have the center sections redone in a Recaro gradient fabric to try and break up all of the black inside the car. Like these:

jrw2jPR.jpg


I'd like to use the same fabric on the back seat. Since the 242 back seat doesn't really have any shape to it, I've been looking for a suitable rear seat I can swap into the car. I'd like something that has more of a two-buckets shape to it so I can use the gradient fabric in the respective center sections. I haven't figured out what kind of seat will work yet, or if I'll end up doing something with the factory seat. I've also been thinking about using the gradient fabric on the door panels in some way but not sure yet.

The other big idea for the year is a meth injection system since I don't have access to e85 in this area. From what I've read so far Aquamist is what I'd like to use.

My rocker panels are really in need of some attention (read: replacement). I need to ask some of the west coast guys about cutting some metal out for me. Doing them is going to mean me wanting to paint the entire car, so I'll have to see what I can get done next year. I had such a hassle getting the paint color for the engine bay, I'm concerned about getting the color right. I might go back to the guy I bought the car from and see who painted the car from him and try to hunt down what paint/code they used to get the tint that's on it. We have also discussed buying a whole different rust free west coast shell and doing an entirely new chassis prep. I'd like to put a car on a rotisserie, stitch weld the entire thing and put a real cage in it. Those are pretty significant costs, but it's still something on my mind if I find the right donor.

That's about it. Brakes are getting in need of replacement but I'll just use regular stuff for next year. I'll probably push an upgrade off another year. I don't want to do R brakes or anything, both for weight and keeping my 16" wheels so probably some Wilwood calipers eventually. The car does go from 40-100mph so fast now that the stock brakes are finally starting to feel a little out of their element.

Here's a bunch of pictures I took in the Summer and never posted:

BEBMz3u.jpg


F3zGBTg.jpg


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cYn4ADP.jpg


rv6Aqoa.jpg


GvA6ae6.jpg


zl9bNzP.jpg



I also went today and picked out a whole new project which will hit the driveway tomorrow. It's going to be something really different we are pretty excited to get into. Will update once progress gets kicked off.

CLhbFei.jpg
 
Spring is near. Update?

No it is creeping up on my to-do list though! It's still sitting in the neighbors garage surrounded by mouse traps. I started building a 940 el camino so we haven't touched the 242 all winter. I'm hoping to do a blitzkrieg of work on it sometime in early April, usually take it out for the first ride of the season in May.

The el camino project is good practice for bodywork, we might end up doing metal work and a respray on this car next year. Need to take a ride up to see Paul Curran and buy a hydro clutch pedal from him and finish pulling in parts for that swap. Otherwise my main goal is to stop ****ing around with the tune now that I finally made some progress right at the end of the season, maybe finally put it on the dyno.

Need to do the proper crank vent system and decide if I'm doing meth or not. Those are the plans/purchases I should finalize pretty soon here.
 
Ready to do this thing, going to start it after Easter. I fully expect it to turn into a pain in the ass. I also think I'm going to have to remake fuel lines and relocate my pressure regulator because it's over in the corner where the master cylinder is going to be. Oh well.

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Trying to decide if I'm going to try and just pull the transmission or pull the damn engine out of the car. I've never pulled the trans with the engine in situ. Every time we've put this transmission on an engine it's been a fight. Actually going to check if the John Parker adapter plate is perfectly centered because it always seems like more of a wrestling than it should be to get it seated. Really pulling the engine is not that painful at this point, which is why we're thinking it might be less of a headache then screwing around with the transmission in the tunnel.

I should put a catch can on the car. Bought a Pro-vent, didn't like how it fit. Bought a Yoshi can, didn't like that. I think I'll have Saikou Michi build something to spec.
 
I had a harder time getting the engine in with the tranny. Had to separate them. That's strange. Good luck though. Can't wait to hear about it!
 
I had a harder time getting the engine in with the tranny. Had to separate them. That's strange. Good luck though. Can't wait to hear about it!

I pull the rad and slam panel and it makes it easy-ish.

The hydraulic aftermarket system will need a clutch pedal stop.

Any ideas for how to incorporate that into pedal box?

could we tack something to the firewall?
 
I still need to add a clutch pedal stop to my setup :oops:

Nice shiny parts, Mike! Any reason in particular why you chose the Wilwood master instead of the 260 master?
 
I still need to add a clutch pedal stop to my setup :oops:

Nice shiny parts, Mike! Any reason in particular why you chose the Wilwood master instead of the 260 master?

I'm sure it has to do with the internal slave. Since there is no external lever arm to ease your actuation, chances are you will need a small bore master. Nice side effect is that the system needs much less travel so you could potentially use a YUUUGE slave and an itty bitty 5/8" master.

This is just conjecture though.

PS I love the Yoshifab clutch setup. It's only a hair heavier than stock.
 
I still need to add a clutch pedal stop to my setup :oops:

Nice shiny parts, Mike! Any reason in particular why you chose the Wilwood master instead of the 260 master?

Basically because I could one-click order it on Summit with free shipping instead actively seeking out a 260 unit. And yeah to Hurralard's point there's a good range of bore sizes, so if I need to I can size it down plug-and-play.
 
could we tack something to the firewall?

It has to be a good solid stop that is adjustable.
We could put some kind of adjustable bolt on the pedal itself, and have it contact the firewall, but there can't be carpet where it's hitting.

Could do the opposite, and put something adjustable on the firewall, and contact a stop on the pedal.

Tilton says allow for 1/4" of travel after the clutch disengages - as determined by having someone try to turn a rear wheel while slowly depressing the clutch. When the helper can turn the wheel, the disc is free. Too much travel will over-extend the slave and could pop a seal out of the bore. Did that once on a Saab, much easier to recover from than this car.
 
I'm sure it has to do with the internal slave. Since there is no external lever arm to ease your actuation, chances are you will need a small bore master. Nice side effect is that the system needs much less travel so you could potentially use a YUUUGE slave and an itty bitty 5/8" master.

This is just conjecture though.

PS I love the Yoshifab clutch setup. It's only a hair heavier than stock.

I have a Tilton hydraulic release bearing paired with a 260 master cylinder in my car ;-)

The 260 master was a one-click purchase on eBay--no investigative work required. Anyway, was just wondering!
 
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