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Matcha: The Green 245

Right on! Did you use the engine or head?
Wax that license plate! Lol

Just the head, original bottom end seems alright and is running strong.
Need to wax the plate along with the rest of the car, and 2 other sets of Cali blue plates, and three other cars...I'm a little behind in the prettying up department
 
Kjet fun tonight, chasing after a misfire
Replaced the throttle body and idle plate gaskets, got better but still missing. Looked at plugs and they all matched. Pulled wires and 1 was completely missing, 4 just a little rough. After pulling #1 injector the spray is more of a trickle.
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Anyone try the mercedessource CIS injector cleaning setup? Seems like a good alternative to buying new ones if soaking them doesn't work.

Put on the enkies I was running on my 242, they are tiny on a 245 and the front sits super high with the old set in the back. Pulling the wheels off revealed brakes that have sat for a decade. They faired about as well as the Kjet did. Going to do new pads and rotors, bleed the system a few (dozen) times and inspect the calipers and lines. I've heard the girling calieprs are harder to get parts for, first time I've had to special order pads. Hope they don't need rebuilt/replaced
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Can't wait to wax the car and see the paint shine, should look real slick, been drooling over duders wagon since I got this
 
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No! keep the original steelies! the 75-79ish steelies are a different design, rare, and stronger than later steelies. They perfectly complement the 70s aesthetic of an avocado green station wagon

At the very least, sell them to me....
 
How did I miss this one? Great looking 245 and color, sure it's not Beige but a strong 2nd favorite for me. You've made some great progress on this.
 
you can flow test those injectors also. Need 4 pop bottles and be able to lift air door on fuel dizzy. Plus you can see the pattern also. Other check is fuel psi also from the pump. I always dump mmo in there also on these cars. 1/2 qt in the tank eh.
The brakes, you prolly know already is the pistons tend to get stuck or frozen and not release if the car has sat.
Wax on wax off remeber your training danielson, lol
 
No! keep the original steelies! the 75-79ish steelies are a different design, rare, and stronger than later steelies. They perfectly complement the 70s aesthetic of an avocado green station wagon

At the very least, sell them to me....

I was told to throw them in the ocean, but I guess I'll keep them. I've got quad square era beauty rings, if I find a set of early hub caps to match ill think about throwing them back on.
I really forgot how much different the 70s 240 is from 80s, same car yes but totally different feel inside and out

you can flow test those injectors also. Need 4 pop bottles and be able to lift air door on fuel dizzy.

Much better then my solution of pulling the injector, cranking and watch it "spray" all over the valve cover.

Put a full tank of gas in it today and took it down the highway, man do I miss overdrive. Tanked Siena into learning manual so it will likely get an M47 if I can figure out a Spedo solution.

Temp gauge went up quite a bit, anyone know what temp I should see with an IR thermometer at the housing/head? It's got a new water pump, thermostats opening and heater works. Pretty sure all the air is out by now so I'm beginning to not trust the gauge. PO had an aftermarket one installed and the original wire cut so it seems he didn't trust it either...
 
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I was getting 204? off the head, runners 1 and 4 on the exhaust where about 100? above 2&3 so definitely lean there. None close to glowing (all around 5-600) but I did get my 90+ and TD06 hotside to glow once in my wagon. Pulled the Injectors and soaked them in diesel fuel system cleaner, then backflushed with poorly with the same cleaner and breakclean.
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Two now spray a mist, one sprays a few small streams with a good bit of pressure but one still dribbles a little. Time to watch more Bosch CIS training videos from before I was born.

Going to clean them again and or install the second set I bought, as far as the temp I'm thinking tropical thermostat and install my R-Sport cluster....for diagnostic purposes of couse, don't want a faulty gauge giving a bad reading.
 
Been driving matcha on lunch and to pick up stuff around town, waxed it some but you can't tell between the smoke/ash and my ****ty camera
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I installed the injectors, along with new Orings on all 4, copper core NGK plugs, Bosche cap and rotor and bougie cord wires. Misfire is definitely better but still idles a little shaky. Got out a timing light and with the vacuum advance disconnect it's at 15? as stated on the emmisions sticker. With it connected at about 5? at idle. Idles a lot better at 5? then 15?. I've got the vacuum advance ran straight to the manifold. Seems it differs in several diagrams I've seen. This being a 76 California car it's got about 12 extra vacuum lines I gotta figure out.

Went and did some other maintenance stuff it needed. Pads and rotors up front, rear pads, trunk strut and cluster voltage regulator. Regulator stopped the temp gauge issue, holds steady a little under half now, glad it wasn't a botched head gasket.
When dreplacing the trunk strut (singular, other side has a locking mechanism) I found it was the original strut from 1976, wild to see an original part like that, gotta see if I can rebuild the thing for ****s and giggles
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Been driving matcha on lunch and to pick up stuff around town, waxed it some
Awesome! Truly a 70s color. Nice save, seems mostly solid. (Haven't seen a cylinder head in that bad shape for quite a while.) Glad to see you're having fun bringing this thing back to life.

I wonder if that green carpet would have cleaned up? Too bad I didn't see this thread in time to make any recommendations. "Lifter 1" is my go-to chemical. The red can for upholstery, blue can for carpets. It'll do an admirable job on the ugliest stuff I've tried -- probably 10-yr-old coffee stains or worse.

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Pretty much forgot about this car, walked past it in the backyard now and then but otherwise untouched since the carpet. Mostly been unable to drive it because of a pretty aggressive leak from the steering rack.

Got reminded I had it again. Went camping this weekend, brought the other, other, other, other 245. Great time and great spot for sleeping in a wagon, but imagine if the wagon was green.
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So I gotta pick back up on fixing matcha, back to the bay it goes
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Got a steering rack from the Oakland PnP a while back, installed it today, no more puddle after a bit of idling.
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Also fixed some of the vacuum issues, being an early 76 California car it's got a specific vacuum routing, got it all set besides the thermostat valve (1). The replacement head isn't threaded for one, so it's clearly not installed.
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I assume the valve is open when cold and closed hot? I've yet to find solid info on it, if anyone can beat me to the specs info would be much appreciated

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But hey it's back on the road, time to convince her to let me manual swap it
 
Running the car around a little yesterday, took it by my parents where it met one of the other 245s. Little rough warm start after sitting, gonna check fuel pressure(s) soon.
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Tried to give it a wash to be met by water leaking into the hatch, all over the electrical diag tools I brought home:omg:

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Looks like it won't be getting washed again until I get a new hatch seal, PnP run this weekend. Also yet again highway cruising in 3rd sucks, needs manual, need to convince SO
 
Did some more learning on Kjet Friday and Saturday, after reading threw a few greenbooks while actually looking at the system it makes way more sense.

Set up the tester to look at both line and control pressure, unfortunately I didn't have the fittings to do both with the valve but it's easy enough to swap the gauge with the quick disconnect fittings.

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First control pressure....hmm 70psi... So clearly I'm tapped in at the wrong place and getting line pressure measurements right

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Nope, triple checked the diagram, this is control pressure, popped the return line off the CPR, no flow from the CPR side, pulled it to find the screens chocked full of debris.

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Pulled the unit apart, looks pretty crusty inside too.

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Gave it a good cleaning (still need to bite the bullet on an ultrasonic cleaner) removed the screens, no more clog
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Checked resistance, 26ohms, build it back up and reinstalled, pressure now follows the graph perfectly, 28psi at 76?, 54psi after about 3:30 powering the bimetal strip
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Rest pressure drops way to fast still, combined with a loud pump I'm feeling fuel accumulator, but may remove the CPR again and either flip or replace the upper diaphragm.

Pulled the injectors again aswell, nearly melted some red solo cups over the valve cover to prove the injectors sprayed a nice pattern and had even flow, seem good on that side of the injection system.

Then moved to vacuum leaks again, didn't get to really sort them out last time I worked on the car.
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Found a good handful, replaced the orings on the cold start injector and idle screw. Added a few hose clamps and trimmed one line that was stretched at the end. Only remaining bit of unmetered air is getting sucked in from the EGR valve, leaks some smoke for what looks like the seal around the rod?

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Still does some rough running on start/warmup, going to take a look at the auxiliary air valve <s>tomorrow</s> later today along with valve lash. No PNP run this weekend
 
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…loud pump, are you sure that the in-tank pump is performing properly? Small rubber connector tube above the pump torn?
I fought some rough running with my Kjet setup and the fix was a new in-tank pump. The one I had in there originally had a crack at the outlet housing. Once it was providing enough fuel the main pump got quiet and it ran like a champ. I ended up using the ipd “upgrade” pump, YMMV.
 
From what I'm reading this car doesn't have an in tank pump, I'll double check one hasn't already been added but if not I may look into the bulletin to retrofit one.

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Got tired of the drone on the highway, restored the exhaust to stock
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Sounds much quieter, highway cruising isn't ideal still, but much more bearable

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Spedo is off by ~10mph, but it still did nearly 80 without sounding terrible. After driving her around in the car this week "we" have decided on an 4 speed auto, need to check if my AW71 is a roller bearing or can be converted to cable drive
 
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No in tank thats correct. If its got the small opening sending unit vs the newer one it has no intank pump. Get an updated tank if you want one or can add one in there. If you want my 77 tank you can have it. It needs to be cleaned out though from old gas.
 
Did the valve adjustment after work today, man what a difference

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Between measuring the shims and trying to remember/interprete my notes it was more work to get the right shims then pull the cam. Converting from metric to imperial then back didn't help

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Got it back together and it idles much smoother, if it wasn't for the fuel pump you could bairly tell it's running. Gonna have to bust out the timing light to set idle speed, can't do it by how much the motor shakes anymore

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This thing is a few steps away from being ready to rotate in for daily duty, current tags and it could do around town for her quite well.
 
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