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The absolute bare bones +T

Please tell me that long hose is for the pcv, and that its pre turbo, post amm? and that the hose going to the cold side pipe is for the idle air control valve.
 
Here is mine. Just an example. Excuse the body panels that are missing...

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After reading this article, it makes me want to do this to the 90 244 dl I just bought. I have all the turbo parts (exhust mani, garret t3/t4, intercooler +piping, water lines, and oil lines, +their fittings) i need from my 84 244tic, so this looks like something i can do with my 90. I plan on running on 5-6lbs of boost, the motor does have 2xx,xxx on the clock, but has been well taken care of.

Questions for this project of mine ( just like this one lol )
You say you can use the stock N/A injectors, resistors, ecu, and icu, but how well does the N/A computer compensate for the turbo, will this project make my car run like a stumbling idled fool, or will the N/A do okay untill I get the brains from a 740? Also how much is this going to kill my mpg is another thing? Im just worried about how well the N/A computers will do with the turbo, as im looking to keep this as my DD just a bit under the under DD, thanks guys!


don't use stock injectors. that's a bad idea coupled with bad mpg.

since your car is a 90 you'll have lh 2.4, which for +t car's is about the easiest it gets. go grab turbo and ignition computer from a lh2.4 turbo car and you're set to go.

as for injectors you need the resistor pack,and some green top injectors, which needs to be spliced into one wire (super super easy). on my lh 2.2 car I actually spliced in the resistor pack, and put in my injectors and turbo computer even before my car was turbo. drove it around without a turbo for about 4 months no problemo. then put the turbo on...everything worked, and still works like a charm four years later almost, and 50k later on the whole turbo setup.

so for fueling that's all you have to do . after that go and boost the hell out of your engine.
 
Thanks dude. To everyone else about to do a +t. PLEASE degrease your engine before tearing into anything and replace all the gaskets and seals! and take your time don't rush anything! If you don't have a part wait for it to come in. If you don't end up doing any of this then you'll probably have an unreliable +t like I did the first time around I did it.
 
don't use stock injectors. that's a bad idea coupled with bad mpg.

since your car is a 90 you'll have lh 2.4, which for +t car's is about the easiest it gets. go grab turbo and ignition computer from a lh2.4 turbo car and you're set to go.

as for injectors you need the resistor pack,and some green top injectors, which needs to be spliced into one wire (super super easy). on my lh 2.2 car I actually spliced in the resistor pack, and put in my injectors and turbo computer even before my car was turbo. drove it around without a turbo for about 4 months no problemo. then put the turbo on...everything worked, and still works like a charm four years later almost, and 50k later on the whole turbo setup.

so for fueling that's all you have to do . after that go and boost the hell out of your engine.

I hear 850 turbo Injectors are high impemdness and are just a drop in set up for my plan, is this true? I still haven't tried the setup yet due to it being cold as hell!
 
Whats the most mileage on the motor, anyone has done this mod with; Mine has like some where short of 300,000 no joke lol; It's just had to find another b230 here in OK to build
 
Whats the most mileage on the motor, anyone has done this mod with; Mine has like some where short of 300,000 no joke lol; It's just had to find another b230 here in OK to build

Go for it and see what happens. If it doesn't knock or tick horribly, (not the B230 tick we're all used to) then it should have as good of a chance as any other stock B230.
 
I did mine like this at 520k km, or 350k miles. i STRONGLY recommend doing the turbo ezk/ecu and injectors/fpr. the na stuff just does not cut it (Ie, pedaling the throttle in every gear so it dosent lean out) I have a AFR gauge, while my setup was like this. you really have to baby it.
 
Ecu and ezk are worth it for sure, but if you are in a pinch you can leave n/a stuff in and run really really low boost.
 
when you said here

"Be sure to clean the hole out extensively after you're done, removing all shavings and cleaning the pan to prep for whatever cold weld compound you'll use to attach a cut off section of oil drain tube to the bung hole. A very good idea is to use a gallon of mineral spirits to pour (with a funnel) into the hole to clean out the remaining shavings in the oil pan. There will be some shavings in there, so I consider this pretty much mandatory. Keep feeling around with a finger and sweeping with a magnet to remove anything left."

you should also pour some oil down there so that the oil can grab the shavings better and take it with it
 
cold weld is a **** idea. mine cracked off after 3 months. stranding me an hour and a bit from home. just pull the damn pan and weld in a bung... there is alot of vibration here...

oh and I was using about a half inch thick layer of cold weld steel putty, which is STRONGER than jbweld.
 
I used a brass fitting set up with a lock washer and nut on the inside. used a dremel to cut the baffle plate out so the washer and nut have a flat surface to rest on. Used Hight Temp RTV sealant on the mating surfaces.
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Ecu and ezk are worth it for sure, but if you are in a pinch you can leave n/a stuff in and run really really low boost.

So basically I can get an lh2.4 turbo ecu and ezk and plug it right into my car? A 93 240 with lh2.4. What wire needs to be modified other than amm relocation.
 
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