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Looking to make your car turbocharged? READ FIRST

From what I have been looking at the '91 240 with a 5 wire AMM should be LH 2.4, like the '87 745, but when I look at the fuel computers, they use completely different plugs. Which is contradictory to what most of the information in this thread has presented. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to yank out the wiring harness from the 745 to make this work, unless someone else has a better idea.

From the way this reads, it appears that you are under the impression that an '87 745 uses LH 2.4, but that is incorrect. The '87 model would have come with LH 2.2.

Additionally, the 2.2 cars used a hall sensor in the distributor while the 2.4 cars use a crank position sensor for ignition location.

To run your 240 +T, you'll need computers from a '90+ 7/9-series turbo car.
 
Ok, so I do need different computer boxes. Well that puts a little pause in my build. I guess I'll go out to Lamar auto tomorrow and see if he has anything useful. I keep looking at the wiring diagrams from the two cars trying to figure out how it could possibly work between the two, but the different LH generations would certainly explain it.

Thanks man.
 
what's all the parts i need for my 90 240 dl, its a standard, i understand i need an intercooler and turbo from a 740 turbo and a manifold. but what else? i can't wait:)
 
So, I have just yesterday, started on my 89 240+T conversion.... I seem to have started before i was genuinely ready. I have all of the parts I expected to need, and I have read this http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0024 , I have all the major peices, but it has been the minor, less detailed bits that I've gotten caught on. I havent found ANY photos or detailed threads on the oil sender line for the turbo. I have found one with images about the turbo coolant lines, one was spliced into the upper radiator hose and the other seemed to have been twards the overflow. I was hoping to find some help on the coolant and oil lines. I have decided to weld a bung to the oil pan, only because I dont have a tap set currently. I've just recently purchased a welder to finish the rest of the exhaust, which is more than half way finished. I have modified the downpipe from the 940, the donor I got everything from, to basically the stock position. I'm still debating on a side pipe or just straight out the rear. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. Hopefully I can get some photos up of my progress soon on my own thread. Thanks for the help.

Joel.
 
i used to just tee off the oil pressure sender port, other people have pulled the plug out of the front of the block and used a 3/8s npt-AN converter and run the oil feed that way.
 
the sender from the turbo? but the plug would be just under the water pump right? thats what it looked like in the photo I did find with it.
 
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I have read everything I could find on +T-ing my 1988 740 GLE. However, I am dyslexic, so I am asking for direct help. Also I am 16 and this is my first car. My donor car is a 1990 740 turbo wagon with a blown head gasket. I havn't removed anything from it yet, as I do not know if the list of parts to remove is correct. Help me correct my list of parts for my project!

- exhaust manifold
- exhaust system
- intercooler and piping
- oil pan off of b230ft (the owner of the 1990 wagon is giving me a spare he has)
- i am buying a rebuilt or better condition turbo
- bosch turbo ECU (I dont know if it is a 2.2 or 2.4)
- injectors off of an 850 turbo (so I don't have to wire in the resistor pack)
 
Would it be okay to put the oil return on the oil pan, or would it be better to put it on the block? I would like a reliable turbo system, but drilling into the block sounds tedious.
 
Would it be okay to put the oil return on the oil pan, or would it be better to put it on the block? I would like a reliable turbo system, but drilling into the block sounds tedious.


I bet a good amount of +T cars have the oil go back right to the oil pan...heck, if you look at the where the hole is on the block it is only a few inches above the oil pan, so no reason it won't work....cast iron drills easily, but I'd only do this with the motor out of the car myself
 
your car is LH2.2, the donor car is LH2.4. You can upgrade to 2.4 fairly easily, but the big hurdle is swapping on the crank sensor wheel which is part of the flywheel/flexplate. Also, turbos usually had better transmissions than non turbos. I'd be tempted, if you're going to the hassle of 90+ LH2.4 Turbo (worth it for the tunability/gains, i think) to just replace the headgasket on your donor engine and swap the whole engine/transmission combo right in.

then it's all in one piece, and you've had a chance to look it over before install
 
I want to use my engine because it is just shy of 200,000 km. Where the donor car is well over 350,000 km. Should I plug in an ecu from a turbo 740 that uses a 2.2 system? Or should I adapt to make the 2.4 system work? I am not looking forward to opening up my engine to change parts.
 
that would be an easier conversion. did not realize the parts car was high mileage. the block is a fine location, as is the pan (for most users) for an oil drain, either way you have to drill it carefully.

wiring wise, on a 740, you will have to add a resistor circuit for the injectors, and swap ignition and fuel computers. lengthen the amm wires to the passenger side, swap injectors and fuel pressure regulator, and thats about it that doesn't involve installing a turbo.
 
Okay, but I am using 850 Turbo injectors because apparently they have the right resistance and are good for high flow. Thus removing the need for a resistor circuit. I though the ecu was both the ignition and fuel computer...... explain...... sorry lol.
 
The reason for lengthening the amm wires is that the sensor and air box is on the passenger side on a turbo and the driver side on the N/A. Thus you have to extend the wires to reach the amm to the other side of the engine bay.
 
Is this the end of the help I will get for my conversion? :(

pretty much...you have your service manuals, not hard to see what is different between a turbo version of your car and an n/a version, you can also use ipd or fcp groton online retailers to double check part numbers to see if one part was turbo or n/a or both

start doing it, once you run into problems, ask for help....it is all there in your haynes or chiltons manual
 
turbos run 3.0 bar fuel pressure. NA cars run 2.5bar. you want the 3bar if it is in good shape. 2 bolts and an oring is all that holds it in.

850 turbo injectors are not bad, will be good for the time being.
 
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