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Trim Adhesive

I too used the same stuff on my 245 when I redid the lower moldings but was unhappy how thick it was.
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I did not like the gap it left even when adequate pressure was applied, perhaps I put the tape in the wrong place on the Moulding? Don?t know how that would affect things but it was my first time so??? I put it in the valley in the Moulding, I believe.

The body shop said that was the stuff to use but the gap was profoundly larger than the factory installation.:grrr:
 
I too used the same stuff on my 245 when I redid the lower moldings but was unhappy how thick it was.
picture.php

I did not like the gap it left even when adequate pressure was applied, perhaps I put the tape in the wrong place on the Moulding? Don?t know how that would affect things but it was my first time so??? I put it in the valley in the Moulding, I believe.

The body shop said that was the stuff to use but the gap was profoundly larger than the factory installation.:grrr:

It comes in different thicknesses and widths. You can get the same thickness that Volvo used on the assembly line.
 
It comes in different thicknesses and widths. You can get the same thickness that Volvo used on the assembly line.

WELL DUHHHHH:lol::oops::roll:
Good thing I purchased enough to do the freakin entire length of the 245 3 times!!!

Live and learn;-) Next time will be much better:)
 
The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!
 
The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!

The tool you are referring to is a 3M stripe eraser. Those will eat the trim up almost as fast as they remove the tape. I only made the mistake of using the eraser on one piece of trim. Lay out the location of the trim with blue painter's masking tape so that when you set it in place you have a guide. You only get one shot at it.
 
3M makes a clear liquid "Emblem Adhesive". It works great. Same as I said above, make sure to use a piece of tape as a guide. You don't want to move the emblem once you set it in place. It will make a huge mess if you do.
 
The toughest part of the job is removing all the old adhesive and foam. There is a neat attachment for an air tool, like a soft eraser, that spins old adhesive right off.

I used some 3M stuff from the parts store. Tip: take pic/note of how its aligned on the car. I did one too far foward due to broken alignment tabs. That's how it stayed!

I used a razor blade to scrape off the old stuff. Then lightly sanded the part and used the 3m VHB tape. Not sure of the thickness but not too thick. Got a very nice tight bond to the body, no gaps and no foam showing. Looks OE. Just place the tape in the same spots as the original no need to go overboard. I also painted the trim with SEM trim black, didn't care for the faded gray look.
 
Found a pic of my finished product, I went with black bumpers because I liked the look. The Bolts holding the mud flaps were rusted on so I just left as is....

picture.php
 
I used a razor blade to scrape off the old stuff. Then lightly sanded the part and used the 3m VHB tape...

I used a blow dryer as a heat gun and softened up the old adhesive and used a PLASTIC scraper on the painted surfaces. I used some kind of solvent at the end to get the last bit of sticky goop off. It worked well, but it took a long time.
 
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