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122 T5 motor swap. Its name is Bluey.

Would a 740 style intercooler do better? Being left to right would be better. Though a 600x400x80 would work well for this engine too. The generic ones can come in all sorts of sizes!
 
I was just using that intercooler to mock up a radiator of similar size. I'll definitely get a low and wide intercooler for out front.
 
My welding buddy got super busy so I've made no progress other than pulling the heater box and ignition coil out of it. And I bought some poly motor mounts. I've selected the radiator I'm going to use, and I've decided to not build a full custom exhaust manifold at this time. I'm just going to do an up-pipe from a stock R manifold to get it running quicker.

Also my focus has been elsewhere, I refinanced my house and have been trying to pay off all the mods I did to my C70 once and for all, but I keep buying parts for it. I still have a goal of June 2016 to have this car running but we'll see how I do this winter.

Thanks for asking though, I need some motivation.
 
This thread needs an update, sadly I have nothing significant to report. But there's a few photos so that'll have to do. 10 days ago I became fully debt free, because I got a severance check from my job as they laid me off. So this sucks, I can't even celebrate or feel good because I have exactly two months cash before I dip in to credit again.

On the plus side I've already had one phone interview and I've filed unemployment which hopefully will stretch it at least another month if it comes to that.

On the car front, I removed the heater box, because it's in the way of my transmission tunnel cutting:

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This will get fully disassembled and rebuilt, and I'll tuck the fan wiring in and run it out the back of the housing so it's not visible in the engine bay.

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I bought polyurethane motor mounts and have been designing the mounts and brackets in my head:

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I removed the ignition switch and coil, I'm basically trying to decide if this is valuable to a restorer or if I should just chop the coil off so I can use the original ignition switch, which I'd like to do.

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Last, I decided instead of a full custom exhaust manifold, it'll save me a bunch of time if I just make an up-pipe from the original manifold. So with that in mind here's my mounting position again. You can see all I'll need is a couple pieces of tubing. I'll probably move the turbo a little farther down and a little closer to the fender just in case I ever want a larger one, although I doubt I will. I also popped the snap ring so I could play with clocking the cold side, it fits a lot better in there now. Once I get the car running, a winter project will be to build a full exhaust manifold.

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So my next steps are to pull the motor back out, get the oil pan welded up (I'm happy with my cuts) and lay out the plates that bolt to the engine for motor mounting. Once the motor mounts are done I'll have to make a final decision about the transmission, and then I'll buy my radiator and alternator and start fitting all that in there, along with working out the intake. I found a 22 x 16 sprint car radiator that will fit just about perfect with a teeny bit of cutting on the car, designed for V8 racing so it should be more than adequate cooling. And I've found a wide variety of alternators smaller than mine so I shouldn't have trouble when that time comes.
 
Very nice project! I specially joint turbobricks to be able to ask questions, i am planning to rebuild a p220 and with time to do the same engine swap. So my questions are, what is the name/type of the rims these are the first ones that i actually like. (In my opinion) Most of the guys install rims that are just to big or a bit tinhorn haha. And could you tell me what the current ride height is? Looks very good, not too high not to low :)

Thanks, Good luck!
 
Thanks! These are Volvo Propus C wheels, made by BBS, a stock wheel on the C70 model. They're 17x7.5 with the 5x4.25 bolt pattern of the newer Volvos. Since they're front wheel drive offset I'm running them with 25mm spacers but I get a tiny bit of tire rub with 205/50 tires. I'd recommend 20mm spacers for someone who doesn't want to roll or cut the fender lips. I cut exactly 2 coils off all 4 springs, so the ride height is exactly 14 inches from wheel center to the fender lip. I used 1800E front hubs and rear axle on this car which updated the bolt pattern, but you can get adapters if you want to keep the original 122 pattern on the car.


could you do an up pipe with the stock na manifold? They do flow well..

I don't think so, those drop way down under the firewall of the 850 so I don't think there's room for it.
 
Finally have some material to update. About a month ago I did the finish grinding and made the blank plates to fill in the notches in my oil pan, and today my welder friend finally had time to help me out, and welded them all together.

Initial fixturing:

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First side done:

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Passenger side done: The extra beads across the top were my fault due to a terrible jigsaw that wandered.

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Overall photo:

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And long term leak testing, passed beautifully (It's full of water in case you can't easily see it):

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With that done, I also stuck the dipstick in the hole and the pan capacity to full on the dipstick is 6 quarts, which should be about perfect for the 5 cylinder motor.

Other than that, I did procure an M90 transmission out of the UK which hasn't arrived yet, but that makes me very happy. Shouldn't have spent the money while unemployed but meh, who cares. It's a necessary next step. I also have designed all the motor mounts, turbo flanges, and intake adapter flanges so that I can have them waterjet cut. I'm just waiting for some quotes.

Next up, once I get my flanges I'll actually drop the crossmember out of the car again so I can take it over to my friend's shop, and we can weld up the motor mounts using the pan and bearing girdle rather than the whole motor. Should work out great. I'm just going to use aluminum tubing and gusset it.

And, I've been researching radiators and alternators, and I think I've found exactly what I need. Also Andrewnance has found the perfect fuel pump system that is designed to convert old cars to modern high pressure delivery and return, with a baffle built in and everything. So that should be taken care of outside of filtering and lines. And it's designed to bolt in to old school fuel tanks. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688

So now that I look at it, my goal of June 2016 will probably not be hit unless I get a job before the end of the year. On the other hand I'm already halfway to "screw it" and paying for everything on a credit card just to make progress, so there's that.
 
Had a hard time deciding whether to post an update, because I'll have another one in a couple days I think. But I have some cool pictures worth sharing so why not.

Waterjet parts!

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Throttle body flange, I made the hole the same size as the gasket, assuming that the larger throttle body is that size, in case I use it instead.

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Manifold flange, pretty much perfect.

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Exhaust manifold to turbo flange, I got two of these to make my up-pipe.

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I didn't design it this way, but the tubing I've chosen for the up-pipe actually fits right in to the hole and wedges in place. It'll need a little porting.

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Downpipe flange, I messed up and forgot to enlarge the holes after using the measurements from stud to stud to locate the holes. The hole locations are perfect and it almost fits, I'll just have to chase it with a slightly larger drill.

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Driver's side motor mount flange, all the bolt holes and clearances fit! I made it extra large just because, once everything's finished I may just cut the rear half of it off.

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I'll need a 6mm spacer for the upper bolts, I'll either use purchased spacers (like washers) or buy some 6mm strip and drill it. Either way, easy fix.

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I added this chunk of material to attach my alternator mount. I figured I'd roll it in with the same part to increase the overall strength and save on part count. I'll still have to adapt something though, once I buy my alternator.

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On the passenger side, there were two machined bosses that weren't tapped. But the hole that was cast in to them was the exact size of the predrill. So I tapped them as is. Mmmm.. precision.

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Fresh threads!

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And again, all locations are right.

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I made this side extra huge because all the different generations of this motor have different bolt patterns on this side. Case in point:

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Ah. This lower engine girdle is from a '94, my engine is a '98, and I have a 2000 motor sitting on a pallet at my old job and its holes are completely different as well. I doubt I'll use this engine forever, as newer ones have updated internals that I'll need if I want to make more power. So all this extra material will allow me to just drill more holes and use it depending on what engine I bolt it to. Starting with one new hole right away, as I'll be using this girdle to fixture for the engine mount welds.

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Cutting it a little close on the turbo drain, I might have to knock the corner off this plate for clearance if I tap this hole for a threaded fitting or anything. I probably will tap it because that makes it easier to use flexible line on the oil return.

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So there we go, tomorrow I'm going to drop the engine back in the car and play with fits and dial in the final location, and nail down the up-pipe design, while playing with the throttle body to see if I can make progress there. Then on Friday I'll go to my old job to use their machine shop, where I hope to do final fly-cut on the oil pan for flatness, and machine recesses in the turbo flanges. They all have a shallow depression to sort of help seal them from exhaust leaks I guess. Can't really think of any other reason they'd be in there. Plus I can chase the mounting holes using a proper setup rather than trying to do it by hand. Stainless is not fun to drill.
 
For now, just generic round poly bushings, I figure if they're too hard I'll slot them or drill softening holes in them. I have a plan to just weld flat plates to the crossmember to mount them in.

Today I machined my extra oil pan, I somehow didn't realize it was less warped than the one I decided to use. I only had to take .030" off the middle, with just a few thousandths cleanup passes on the rest of the pan. I figured out a decent way to fixture it, I bought these little machine jacks and just put them on the flat bolt hole faces, there were many to choose from on both ends. Crank them up and down with a dial indicator and I had all 4 corners zeroed in perfectly in about 10 minutes. And the ends of the pan are thick/tall enough that clamping in the center like I did didn't deflect the surface down at all.

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Unfortunately, fly cutting it really shakes the pan and rings out throughout the shop, so I had to limit the depth to under .005" per pass to get good finish and not annoy the people I used to work with. So while it was easy work, it was very time consuming. Four hours later:

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Then I used the lathe to put clearances in my exhaust flanges, and chase out the holes. They all mate up to their respective parts perfectly now.

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Because of how time consuming it was to mill the oil pan, and given that mine is only warped about .040 in the middle, I think I'll skip machining it for now. I mean, on the one hand it's warped, but with a single bolt hand tight, it flexes back into place. So with the anaerobic gasket I have a hard time believing it won't seal. Although I just did some searching and I can get a 1.5" endmill for about $35 so maybe that's the answer for next time.
 
I bought a flange that bolts to the intake, and a flange for the throttle body, and I'll be welding a short radius elbow between them to get the throttle body pointed forward. I'll also weld a bung on to the elbow for the idle control motor.
 
I bought a flange that bolts to the intake, and a flange for the throttle body, and I'll be welding a short radius elbow between them to get the throttle body pointed forward. I'll also weld a bung on to the elbow for the idle control motor.

I've thought about doing the same for mine. Seems like it would make it much easier to route everything.
 
Tip of the day: A better method than water to check for leaks in things like your oil pan is to add some red food coloring to rubbing alcohol. Alcohol is less viscous than water and the red color will show you exactly where the leak is. You don't have to fill the void area either, just a small amount of red sloshed over all the interior welds will do the trick. You can just poor the excess red back in the bottle for later use.
 
That sounds like a great idea, thanks! I'll keep that in the toolbox for next time.

So tonight a 3 month saga of shipping and idiot fedex decisions comes to a close. Behold! The irreplaceable M90!

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With starter adapter

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And a few peripherals.

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They basically lost the paperwork, and instead of calling either myself or the seller, they just sent it back to the UK and tried to bill us for the trip. Fortunately the seller (classicswede here on the forums) was having none of it and eventually persuaded them to ship it to me again on their dime. But it was hairy for a while, we didn't know if they'd budge or not.

I wish I'd have asked for the whole driveshaft but it's not a dealbreaker, at some point I'll just junkyard up a rear driveshaft half from another 9 series. I'll have to shorten or lengthen them to custom specs anyway.

This week was too cold to get out into the garage, we got about 8 inches of snow on tuesday and then it just sat around at 20 degrees. Today was nice but I was busy with other stuff, and this weekend is booked. I'll get around to doing some more real work at some point next week.
 
At last it has arrived! It did take a lot of effort making them come good with delivery.

I have been considering doing a 2.5NA swap for a while and I like how you have tackled some of the problems. The NA engine will provide neater packaging and still make enough power for a daily.

What are you thinking of doing for the speedo drive?
 
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