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Suspension for V8 swap

Wrong. It won't make squat difference. The redblock is no lightweight. My old school 327/TH400 swap into my 1975 242 with B20 gained 150 lb. I weighed the car before and after on a local truck scale.

Yeah, my calculations were wrong. The 5.0L and T-5 swap from an 1989 Mustang only adds closer to 100lbs, not 200lbs. It's within 11lbs of the D24 it replaced.

No big deal. This must be the reason for the 302 swap popularity in the 80s-90s. Today it?s the LS. I have buddy that?s been buying up all the junked 05-07 GM extended cabs he can find for the relatively cheap all aluminum L33s. Probably the best bang-for-buck LS you can find.

I find the position over the front wheels is a bigger change in handling. The B6304 I put in my 244 was quite long, and the car definitely felt nosey on a 21mm bar, IPD springs (1 coil removed), and KYB GR2s.

I reckon an inline-6 is usually longitudinally larger than any inline-4 or V8. It's to be expected.

Did you get a reply?

Sometimes messages can fall through the cracks.

I did the "RE:" trick
 
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I have an LT1/T56 using the JTR crossmember. Had to do an aluminum racing radiator to keep it running cool. All of that together probably adds 150-200 lbs to the front axle.

I've done what I think would be considered a medium grade suspension build:
TME lowering springs
iPd sway bars, poly bushings
Bilstein shocks
TrueTrac LSD in 1031 3.73 rear end
Adjustable panhard and torque rods with poly
Cherry Turbos strut mount brace
iPd upper and lower chassis braces
OEM but replaced inner/outer tie rods and lower ball joints
OEM but replaced strut mounts

Currently dealing with failed rubber bushing in rear trailing arms (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356743), upgrading the rear trailing arm bushings to poly now.

So this suspension setup is pretty good but the car understeers which is annoying. So I would like to get full adjustable with a Kalpehnke setup eventually but that is $$$.
 
I have an LT1/T56 using the JTR crossmember. Had to do an aluminum racing radiator to keep it running cool. All of that together probably adds 150-200 lbs to the front axle.

I've done what I think would be considered a medium grade suspension build:
TME lowering springs
iPd sway bars, poly bushings
Bilstein shocks
TrueTrac LSD in 1031 3.73 rear end
Adjustable panhard and torque rods with poly
Cherry Turbos strut mount brace
iPd upper and lower chassis braces
OEM but replaced inner/outer tie rods and lower ball joints
OEM but replaced strut mounts

Currently dealing with failed rubber bushing in rear trailing arms (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356743), upgrading the rear trailing arm bushings to poly now.

So this suspension setup is pretty good but the car understeers which is annoying. So I would like to get full adjustable with a Kalpehnke setup eventually but that is $$$.

Understeers under what circumstances?
 
It loses steering and pushes as it reaches the limit. Throttle on with LSD rear end help to compensate but not enough to overcome it.
 
It loses steering and pushes as it reaches the limit. Throttle on with LSD rear end help to compensate but not enough to overcome it.

What’s the spring rate of those TMEs? From what I understand many aftermarket “lowering springs” don’t really add any more rate. It’s just shorter and make the car lower.

By the sounds of it your rear has more grip than the front... or, the rear just has too much grip (yes, there is such a thing). Are your rear tires larger than your fronts, or have to widened your rear track? It may not “look” the best but, having a narrower rear track is beneficial for helping the car rotate.

One of the reasons you see staggered wheels sizes on high performance road cars is to add understeer... or as I like to call it “lawyer steer”. A good example of this is the 350z. By all intents and purposes it's one of the last old-school overbuilt performance machines made. But, it suffers from lawyers and the "fast and furious" crowed. All you have to do with this car is use a square wheel and tire set-up along with reducing the rear track by 3-5mm you will have yourself a road course eating monster!
 
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Yup that is what I was thinking, the spring rate up front isn't enough and adjustable camber plates would help as well. Really want to get fully adjustable setup with front coilovers at least but that will have to wait awhile.
 
What’s the spring rate of those TMEs? From what I understand many aftermarket “lowering springs” don’t really add any more rate. It’s just shorter and make the car lower.

By the sounds of it your rear has more grip than the front... or, the rear just has too much grip (yes, there is such a thing). Are your rear tires larger than your fronts, or have to widened your rear track? It may not “look” the best but, having a narrower rear track is beneficial for helping the car rotate.

One of the reasons you see staggered wheels sizes on high performance road cars is to add understeer... or as I like to call it “lawyer steer”. A good example of this is the 350z. By all intents and purposes it's one of the last old-school overbuilt performance machines made. But, it suffers from lawyers and the "fast and furious" crowed. All you have to do with this car is use a square wheel and tire set-up along with reducing the rear track by 3-5mm you will have yourself a road course eating monster!
This is a very minute effect unless you are in a go-kart.
The wide rear of a 350z is mostly visual.
Fat front bar and no rear bar is the most common way manufacturers try to keep people from backing into trees at high speed.
Here is a good read that gets it sorted out by the end.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/adding-track-width-effects/137606/page1/

TL;DR, widening the rear contact patch doesn't transfer as much weight to the outside tire, (sometimes) creating more rear lateral grip. Wider rear on a solid axle affects vert wheel rate regarding a bump (softer), does NOT affect the roll rate of either IRS or solid axle.
 
By the sounds of it your rear has more grip than the front... or, the rear just has too much grip (yes, there is such a thing). Are your rear tires larger than your fronts, or have to widened your rear track? It may not ?look? the best but, having a narrower rear track is beneficial for helping the car rotate.

Wheel spacer front and rear with 17" Mimas wheels, 7" tire width I believe? But same tires and track width front and rear.
 
After some thought and calculation I'm thinking about going with ~300 front, ~200 rear, to ~350 front, 250 rear ,springs depending on what dampeners I go with. To be honest I am enticed by the Konis for the adjustability in the front. Bilsteins or something similar in the rear.

Still undecided which rear spring rate... I'm thinking the best Idea is for more to find a good rear set-up and stick with it. Leave the front adjustable with Konis and coilovers,
 
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