9 series strut mounts redrilling for -1* camber 2011-2021 bump

jerryc said:

I once had a 72 Camaro and on a trip from Boston to Miami felt the car was pulling. I stopped by a small town alignment shop in South Carolina and they put it on the rack and this wizened old codger did his stuff.
That car to this day was the straightest driving car I have ever been in. On some straight parts of 95 I could take my hands off the wheel for a mile, no lie.

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I've been told (and experienced it with my 70 Malibu) that big caster will do that for you....the damn thing will track like a heat seaking missile. I'm running +5.5* on the 70 and barely any toe, and while I can't claim a mile "hands off", it does track amazingly well. Suspension guru's (Fred Puhn for one...."How to make your car handle" HPbooks) recommend much bigger caster and very little toe. The book is an excellent read and very applicable to these RWD bricks.

BTW the factory specs for a 72 Camaro were really crap....a bunch of toe, they actually had + camber and went MORE + with suspension deflection , barely any caster. Most of the Pro-Touring folks have now converted that old iron to modern suspension/specs, and what a difference it makes!

I've done the camber mod. Just moving the front stud, got about 1.3 deg now.
Seemed to loose a bit of caster in the process. 4 - 3.5 deg not 4.5.
My question... any photos of the washers.
I have poly radius bushes but the rear stop washer is fixed to the arm. So I can't shim it forward?
I'd like to get a bit back what's the process?

ddd double

nickm said:

My question... any photos of the washers.
I have poly radius bushes but the rear stop washer is fixed to the arm. So I can't shim it forward?
I'd like to get a bit back what's the process?

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Janspeed posted this answer a while back....the washers go between the fixed (welded in place) rear cupped washer, and the poly STAY bushing, rear unit. I've not done it yet, but there are multiple posts you should be able to search and find easily. I believe the general agreement that somewhere between 4~5mm shim is maximum/suggested. I've got to buy the washers and get them in prior to my alignment check. As you know, the factor piece is coned (cupped?) so that will be lost with the stack of flat washers, unless you can find some similar shaped units.

As you know, the factor piece is coned (cupped?) so that will be lost with the stack of flat washers, unless you can find some similar shaped units.

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yes and the front washer centre is to small(could drill it out). So the centre bush(the metal tube) sits 4-5 mm froward on the arm.
I see a matter of rebound so the bush stops on a washer and not run back over what is placed placed between it.
I was under the impression the US cars got a removable rear washer on the arm and the spacers went behind this.

Here is the link to Janspeed comments on caster, shim/washer installation behind stay bushings:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=218786&highlight=caster

Old cow

If you have a 97 or 98 car they allready have the longer ones, the so called "Taxi controlarms" are longer.
So your local yunkyard will do the trick

Photo's from the rod and washer.

Photo's from the rod and washer trick I did (and so many people asked for):







And an interesting document concerning the special tool (sorry in Dutch but you get the drift) about the three different rods.

Standard 390,5 mm
Short 385 mm
Long (so called tTaxi rods) 396 mm.

Wow surprised to see this old thread resurface. The facts never get old.....

Speaking of the 396mm stay "radius" rods, here they are (still in the supply chain):



OE PN is visible in this pic:



If your bushings are still solid, no need for these when you can use the Flying Dutchman's washer spacer trick.... not sure that gets your 6mm. FWIW, when I disassembled my 92 Sedan it was fitted with the 385mm version, not the 390mm I expected. My passenger side bushing had deteriorated, so I'm refreshing them to these NOS 396mm rods.

Of course you can "rebush" your original rods, but that requires access to a press and a bit of skill to press the OE bushings into place. Those bushes alone are pricing mid $50s, so to save labor just install the 396mm version.

https://www.designbox.nl/volvo/pushrods-adjustable.png

DET17 said:

Wow surprised to see this old thread resurface. The facts never get old.....

If your bushings are still solid, no need for these when you can use the Flying Dutchman's washer spacer trick.... not sure that gets your 6mm. FWIW, when I disassembled my 92 Sedan it was fitted with the 385mm version, not the 390mm I expected. My passenger side bushing had deteriorated, so I'm refreshing them to these NOS 396mm rods.

Of course you can "rebush" your original rods, but that requires access to a press and a bit of skill to press the OE bushings into place. Those bushes alone are pricing mid $50s, so to save labor just install the 396mm version.

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Hi, adjusting is 5mm per washer so you need 2 for 10mm (duhuh), cost $1,25 a piece.
There are even adjustable rods, see picture below, you can stil order them:



P.s. I think that the grooves you can see in the rods are an indication of the length, my picture has two grooves and yours 3 DET17 so probably the longest I think (396 mm).

Are the adjustable rods factory? I feel like I have seen them somewhere.

As far as I know, "short" rods came on cars that were originally equipped with 16" wheels.

I redrilled the front bolts on my strut mounts and ended up with a mere half a degree of negative front camber, from +1 before. Yuck.

For caster I believe I ended up at 5.7 degrees. I'll probably try the washer trick at some point. Measurements come from an angle finder on the strut tube and homemade camber gauge. Dad and I did a string alignment with driver's weight in car. 1.5 mm toe in in total I think.

940s have a fairly large positive scrub radius in the front according to my measurements as well as big bushings in the control rods so I figure there is a significant amount of toe out during acceleration.

I don't think they are factory. I bought mine from Skandix and the adjustable ones are listed with the same number as the 390mm (3530789). Got 5.3 degrees caster with stock-ish length, should be more available by adjusting and using washers.
https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-par...ut-control-arm-front-axle-adjustable/1008382/

SKANDIX said:

Length adjustable Control arm strut, covers all genuine measures:
- Volvo 3530789 = Length 390,5mm for Standard Chassis
- Volvo 3530790 = Length 385 mm for vehicles with 16" wheels
- Volvo 3530791 = Length 396mm, genuine Accessory part
- Volvo 6819079 = Length 388,5mm. Volvo Service part for vehicles with rubbing brakes. Caution: This Strut had special bushings which are discontinued.

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I did the front bolt redrill along with all new ball joints, sway links, IPD subframe brace, IPD updated poly Control arms, Belsten A4, Strut bearings, and washer mod the control arm. Everything was going bad, or bad, or rotted, it is been way overdue for far too long.

After an alignment, I got -0.1 camber on both sides, Left caster 7.5, Right caster 7.8, Left toe 0.17, Right toe 0.17.

Not sure if that camber is right because I can see the negative camber, anyway the car on crap tires is almost like its rails. I am slowly testing how fast I can make corners, defiantly feel more confident driving the car.