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Andrew's 122 turbo project

Not changing anything up. I can't imagine trying to start all over with a different engine :lol: I'm just going to get a shortblock and swap everything over. Then I can rebuild this one later. I'm interested to see what's going on with it. This much blowby would lead me to believe it's more than just "worn out".
 
AndrewNance said:
Not changing anything up. I can't imagine trying to start all over with a different engine :lol: I'm just going to get a shortblock and swap everything over. Then I can rebuild this one later. I'm interested to see what's going on with it. This much blowby would lead me to believe it's more than just "worn out".
Click to expand...

Piston to bore clearance and rings, probably. That's not a thin feeler gauge below. Was about .030" at the bottom of the piston and bore :freak:

BxJyVKol.jpg
 
That's what I suspect. Jared beat on this thing for a few years so I knew what I was getting into. It didn't have much blowby until that day I was driving it home and it started smoking as I got onto the highway. I assumed it was PCV-related but maybe somethin' just broke :e-shrug:. I'm going to load the wagon up for mountain meet and just not worry about it til things settle down with the new house.
 
Bummer to hear about the blow by. At least you can just toss another red block in there now that all the hard stuff is taken care of.

I was actually thinking about copying your catch can set up. Mine is mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay and is currently not set up to drain. It's filling up and then sucking in pure oil on hard corners with high boost. Did you ever figure out if yours was draining properly? Also, what fitting did you use to mount the catch can to the plate on the block?
 
I don't really have a good way to tell if it's draining but I have to assume it is. I cut the long hose off that returns to the oil pan inside the block. There's really nothing to stop any oil from draining back out. I just used an 8an coupler to get it mounted straight onto the block.

425915108ERL_L_a0ae7778-6257-40ab-a8df-64d976b6d7b8.jpg
 
AndrewNance said:
I don't really have a good way to tell if it's draining but I have to assume it is. I cut the long hose off that returns to the oil pan inside the block. There's really nothing to stop any oil from draining back out. I just used an 8an coupler to get it mounted straight onto the block.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. Does that coupler swivel?

Edit: never mind, I see that it does not. Thanks!
 
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Haven't had any time or money to work on any cars lately. We bought a house in October and moved over Thanksgiving weekend. Kyle was cool enough to come drag my broken garbage to the new place where I have this neat little garage out back. Had to put up some new lights since it effectively had none. I got half of them done but there's a partition in the middle of the shop that needs to come down so I have some room to work. I hope to have some money this year for sheetrock, wiring upgrades, and tool storage.

Gonna try to get the engine back in the 142 soon so I can free up my engine stand for this other B230 shortblock.

yKZ4vt2.jpg


bZnb37s.jpg
 
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This is not the way to measure!!! :-(

BxJyVKol.jpg


The top of the piston is the smallest part and never touches the cylinder wall.
This is not where the piston wears.

Pistons are not actually round
The largest part of the piston is at pin height and perpendicular to the pin.
It doesn't touch the cylinder wall either, it glides on a film of oil.
If it touches the cylinder wall bad things happen.
 
It's getting there. I got the partition down and three more lights up and it's as bright as I could need. Now I need some workbenches (I'll build cheap ones), cabinets (hopefully getting some secondhand), and a new toolbox.

GwpRXtZ.jpg
 
Dirty Rick said:
This is not the way to measure!!! :-(

BxJyVKol.jpg


The top of the piston is the smallest part and never touches the cylinder wall.
This is not where the piston wears.

Pistons are not actually round
The largest part of the piston is at pin height and perpendicular to the pin.
It doesn't touch the cylinder wall either, it glides on a film of oil.
If it touches the cylinder wall bad things happen.
Click to expand...

That engine was trash. Skirt wear was the same as crown wear, chill out.
 
AndrewNance said:
It's getting there. I got the partition down and three more lights up and it's as bright as I could need. Now I need some workbenches (I'll build cheap ones), cabinets (hopefully getting some secondhand), and a new toolbox.

GwpRXtZ.jpg
Click to expand...

Before you have to much stuff hung on the walls ya' might think about getting 5 gallons of white paint for the walls. That will really brighten things up. Check CL materials for used kitchen cabinets from remodels, usually pretty cheap and work well. Otherwise it's perfect!!
 
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I’m hoping to find the funds for drywall this year sometime. That paneling is definitely not for outdoor use so it has warped pretty badly. Unfortunately I’m going to be replacing the roof next weekend due to some neglect from the PO.
 
Drywall = even better. Especially if removing the paneling allows the insulation situation to be examined. My 2 car detached is insulated....all it takes is a $30 1500W Wally World electric plug in heater to keep it at 55F-60F through the coldest temps here in NC, perfect "working" temp.
 
That’s what I’m hoping for. It is insulated but I’m not sure how ruined the left side is. The PO never trimmed any trees back or installed gutters and almost all of the fascia and soffit boards are rotten and in various stages of degradation. Water comes down the roof and runs down inside the wall then out into the floor. Hoping to get it all done next weekend.
 
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