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240 '92 3.1 Intermittent No-Starts

Need to be working at a Volvo yard. My old '81 242 never failed to start when I worked at one. It knew that, if it did, it might wind up on the other side of the fence (in actuality, I probably would've rolled it into the shop after work, found whatever I needed in the yard or on the shelves in the back, then replaced what went bad).
 
Alright, so how do I backprobe this stupid CPS? I swapped it out for the one Dave sent me, (thanks, Dave!) but it still didn't start. I (very stupidly) didn't try to start it before I changed the sensor out. Which was pretty dumb...Now I can't verify if it was actively having issues or if the sensor is an out of box failure. The rubber jacket on the sensor wiring on the new one was dry-rotted and split open when I was wiring it up, but the jacket on the existing sensor was completely trashed.
 
Omg I will get you a different one. My apologies. I do have a good bougicord used one as well. They do use some type of fast dry rotting insulation on those. Or maybe that's how bad the air is around here? I've bought cars where people have covered the wiring with black tape to get by. I will check in soon.
 
It's simply a coil of wire around an iron core plus a magnet. Measure the resistance when unplugged and compare to specs. If it's open circuit, it's bad. Much lower than spec resistance means that the coil is partially shorted.
 
A bad distributor cap can be hard to detect and cause issues.


* recently had a similar situation, codes read 1-1-1
A failed distributor cap caused a big part of no start/non consistent starting issue.
Visual inspection showed no more than a worn cap.

* Replaced with new Bosch/ also had a slipped timing belt same time which added to the confusion
 
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Aww, you didn't have to do that, Dave! But I appreciate it, really. It seems like the rubber jacket just sucks from the factory. I've handled plenty of old parts, new and used, and they didn't have quite the same type of crumble as this did. The one that was on the car seems to point to the same. Half of it was missing!

I did confirm 3v to the sensor connection, so the signal is getting there.
 
MMMMMWELP. It's not the crank sensor. Got the new new one in, it started, then it rained the next day, wouldn't start. And the battery died. Jumped it from the XC, but since it was in it's no-start state, I couldn't get it to run and charge. Don't have a trickle charger, battery is old, might just go buy a new battery instead. Good to have a backup anyway.

So I've got money on water related issues. I pulled the kick panel and the ecu's are (edit: not) OBVIOUSLY wet, but I obviously can't guarantee anything without pulling them out. I'm moving on Friday, so this is gonna be a big pain in the ass.
 
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ECU's are wet so obviously water getting in from windshield or wiper motor grommet. Unplug and dry out ecus with hair drier or heat gun? Then try to start again. If it works put some plastic over it to keep it dry. If it doesn't check for green corrosion at the terminals. Worst case is you ecu is rusting from within. Also wonder if your year car had ECU issues as did the 90s with pink label 561s?
 
Fuel pump relay filled with water too? That was the recent issue with my parts storing wagon. The relay had come un-clipped from its little holder and ended up making a nice cup/bowl for the water that trickled down the wiring harness (leaking windshield). The relay was FULL of water, and the contacts had rusted.
 
Nope. It was clipped in place and swapped out when this all started. Nothing is full of water except the floors, that I've found so far.
 
I know this may not be related. But I have experienced the coil wire arcing to the body. If you have the horizontal coil the coil wire with it's ninety degree connector goes very close to the body and causes random shorts. My car had this happening. Also if the top of the coil is dirty it will short out the coil wire as well.
 
Fuel pump relay filled with water too? That was the recent issue with my parts storing wagon. The relay had come un-clipped from its little holder and ended up making a nice cup/bowl for the water that trickled down the wiring harness (leaking windshield). The relay was FULL of water, and the contacts had rusted.

When my first 240 wouldn’t start, this was exactly my problem. Fuel pump relay was FULL of water.

If that’s not your issue, have you tried removing the dist cap and rotor and drying it out with a blow dryer or something? I have had 240 no starts from a damp cap and rotor. It’s just a poor design IMO. Even new ones can be 'wet' if it’s humid enough out.

Would you say your issue is directly related to humidity?

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you have a no start condition? Not sure if all 3.1 cars prime or not, but you could jump the pump and see if anything changes (probably won’t). My guess is weak or no spark situation if the CPS didn’t change anything. Good to have a new one on there anyway though.
 
I've already jumped the pumps. I can at least hear the main pump run.

Pulled the cap once when it wouldn't start at work and it didn't appear damp. I feel like it is moisture related at this point, but that's a pretty tough thing to tell in this climate.
 
I've already jumped the pumps. I can at least hear the main pump run.

Pulled the cap once when it wouldn't start at work and it didn't appear damp. I feel like it is moisture related at this point, but that's a pretty tough thing to tell in this climate.

You won?t always see visible moisture. I have had enough luck by simply thoroughly wiping everything with a dry paper towel.
 
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