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1980 242 GT. A reasonable project.

Thanks for the kind words, everyone!

Three quick updates.

One. After doing some research I decided on what transmission fluid to use in the Getrag 265 (or in this case, what mix of fluids). A number of people sang the praises of Redline MTL in this box, but after doing a little more reading, I found that a mix of Redline MTL with 80w/90 gear oil seems to be the ideal recipe for this transmission. I'll change that fluid in the next week or two.
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Two. I finally got around to installing a few rear suspension bits I've had sitting. Specifically Koni Race shocks, shortened trailing arms with new Genuine Volvo bushings, and a fresh ipd adjustable panhard bar (the nice plated version) to replace the crusty powdercoated version I had in there already. This was well worth the effort and expense. The new shocks are fantastic. The car rides so much nicer, and the rear end just "works."
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Three. It was time for a rebuild, so I figured why not swap out the 16t compressor wheel and housing for a 20t billet compressor wheel and housing while I'm at it. I also got a genuine Mitsubishi rebuild kit which seems to be very comprehensive. I'm pretty excited to get this all in the car--not expecting huge gains, but a reasonable bump in output potential with a freshly rebuilt turbo sounds fantastic to me.
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*Previously I was planning to swap on a k24, but decided against it because I just couldn't justify it in comparison to being able to bolt on this 20t stuff which appears to be in the same ballpark for flow.
 
Update time. I went down to the VCOA Midsommar meet in Hannibal, MO. It was a great time and a fun trip in the car.

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Before the trip, I swapped in the new front coilovers. I am very happy with the new koni race both front and rear--definitely money well spent.

I started running into issues with the car going lean at boost onset. after pressurizing the intake and checking for leaks, I found that the IAC bung on the cold side IC pipe wouldn't seal properly any longer. it was a thinwall fitting from a factory pipe that is now past its prime. A little cutting, fitting, and excellent welding from Mr. Homer and I have a nice new one piece IC pipe to replace the leaky two piece predecessor. Voila!

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The first thing I did after getting home from the Missouri trip was pull and disassemble the 16t. I replaced all of the wear parts with original mitsubishi parts and then dropped it off at a local shop to have it machined to fit the new 20t wheel, cleaned up, and balanced. i just got it back today and am quite pleased.

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I also managed to pick up pillar trim for the car. Cleaned, refreshed with SEM color coat, and I'm ready to be rid of my bare pillars.

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Next step is to bolt the turbo back up and button up the intake tract, then get back to driving... then of course all of the other things I'm planning that i don't have pictures of yet.
 
Sits really nice from a looks point of view. I'm still on the fence about the BMW wheels, but at least I don't hate them. Some bumper trim or shave and tuck would finish it off as that's the only thing that stands out as unfinished to me. Otherwise it looks great.

Thanks! I'm in a similar position on the BMW wheels. I hated them at first, but they've been growing on me. The BBS RC I had on the car previously are being professionally refinished right now, and Falken RT615k are on the way for them... so they'll probably go on soon, at least for fun driving, and perhaps use the DS1 with the Michelins for longer trips. Not sure.

I completely agree about the trim situation. I've been avoiding it while sorting out other things that I notice from the driver seat. I have a nice set of turbo bumper trim for it, but it didn't seem to line up correctly with the bumper... so I'm not sure why that would be (the hockey sticks sit about .75" above the bumper).

Perhaps the bumper is mounted incorrectly or I have the wrong brackets? I will post pictures, but I'd love any advice about what I'm missing there.


Getting pillar trim on helps it feel a little more like a "normal car", I found.

Yeah, it's really nice getting all of those details in place. Makes such a difference, and it's such fulfilling, simple work.
 
Could be toy bumpers on 85+ mounts?

Is 85 the changeover? If so, dammit. I picked up side brackets (bumper to fender) from an 85 figuring 86 was when they changed (the shell didn't have any when I got it).


Are you using the oblong trim holes for the commando rubber filler piece for your clips?

If I am understanding correctly then, yes, I am. Are the trim holes in different locations in commando bumper fenders versus skinny bumper fenders?
 
Do you have a 83-85 front bumper or a 86+?

All of the body mounting holes for bumper trim and side bumper mount are different on -82 versus 83-85 so you will need to drill all new holes.

86+ bumpers seem to mount slightly lower than the 83-85 bumpers.

You'll have to use that basic info to look at your car and figure out what's going on and how to fix/adjust it to make it work.
 
I had assumed it was a 83-85 bumper but now I'm not sure. Thanks for the info, that's a big help. Now I need to decide if I'd prefer to shave and tuck the bumper or do some drilling and mount that trim.

Decisions, decisions...
 
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It has an 86+ front bumper off a 91 wagon and an 83 rear bumper if I Remember correctly, it was the best set I could find at the time when I ditched the comandos.
 
The way to check for sure is the 83-85 aluminum reinforcement is flat and the 86+ is stepped and the bumper shocks are offset to match the step.
 
If you have it, the front commando trim is passable with an 86+ bumper, better than nothin. I think you end up with an exposed hole on the fender if you put the skinny trim on? I haven't put my skinny bumpers and trim up to check yet.

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