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Maximum RPMs

Drop the rear to 3.9

Mike P offered me a set of 3.73 gears, not sure how much work it is to swap in an 8.8. Plus I've got about $60 worth of Ford friction modifier additive in there now. I know it's not going to pull hard past 7000 but at least it shouldn't be banging the limiter if I set it to 7500.
 
It all depends on whether it’s worth shifting. That extra 200 RPM may be all you need. I run into a gearing issue with my GT every now and then where it would take more time to shift than it is worth.
 
I have found that on a big sweeping course i?ll shift to 3rd and keep smooth.
But if you need a bit more and want to stay in 2nd, here?s the idea i was going to throw at you: set up the new gearset with new pinion bearings. keep the 4.10 ring gear, and the 4.10 pinion with the bearings and crush sleeve.
Use synthetic gear lube, i usually don?t need much if any modifier. Or use gear lube with modifier. Or strain your oil through a coffee filter. It takes a while but i don?t stand there and watch it.
 
As most have mentioned, your bottom end, if balanced and all happy, should be fine to 8k+. If you had a B230 bottom end and a stock harmonic balancer on the front of it, you are risking things by going over 7000-7500rpm. Especially not recommended if it's old and cracking! You don't have that, running a B23 though, so you should be fine.

Your main concern is valve float. If it is indeed an IPD Turbo cam, they are pretty mild and I'd default to saying you're going to be ok. Pay attention to that, though, as if you do get float, it's obviously very hard on things and worst case you can drop a valve if the keepers get loose.
With a much smaller and lighter piston, too.

What camshaft? And on my RSI head, I also recently had the valve spring seat pressures measured as barely above stock with my "7500rpm valve spring kit" from RSI, too. Not cool when I am about to slap in a much larger than stock type camshaft.

Kyle; What are the options for Aftermarket performance harmonic balancer for B230? Any recommendations.
 
I have found that on a big sweeping course i’ll shift to 3rd and keep smooth.
But if you need a bit more and want to stay in 2nd, here’s the idea i was going to throw at you: set up the new gearset with new pinion bearings. keep the 4.10 ring gear, and the 4.10 pinion with the bearings and crush sleeve.
Use synthetic gear lube, i usually don’t need much if any modifier. Or use gear lube with modifier. Or strain your oil through a coffee filter. It takes a while but i don’t stand there and watch it.

The friction modifier was a requirement of the upgrade to the Cobra clutch packs. Some very stinky stuff, I opened the bottle in the shop and one of my guys about 30ft away smelled it immediately, someone told me it had whale oil in it.
 
stock N/A B230E (kjet) , with stock 530 head. 2.5Exhaust, with Klracing ST4 cam.
I try to don't go more than 7200rpm on my Volvo 360 on track. But after 2 years of abuse : No problems for the moment
 
In the past I've had R&P failures due to synthetic gear lube. In my V8 wagon, and the race car that I was crew chief for. The synthetic gear oil does not offer enough shock protection, causing fatigue fracture failure, have the broken parts hanging in my shop on my "Wall of Shame".
 
Well I bumped it up and test drove it this morning, I barely made it to 7k when I pussed out, it seemed like it was fine though. I think I could use an adjustable cam gear to shift the power band up a bit. The 4.10 rear really makes it jump so I'm not worried so much about the low end.

Edit I just checked the log 7081 rpm
 
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In the past I've had R&P failures due to synthetic gear lube. In my V8 wagon, and the race car that I was crew chief for. The synthetic gear oil does not offer enough shock protection, causing fatigue fracture failure, have the broken parts hanging in my shop on my "Wall of Shame".

I had a true track installed in my 82 turbo and using Redline Synthetic gear oil the rear started to whine. I took it back to the shop and they suggested going to a dino oil. So I put the Lucas GL 5 gear oil in there and the whine went away after a few months of driving.
 
Sorry for the late post, but we had been using Redline’s synthetic 75w90 gear oil without any additional additives on our Truetrac and more recently switched to their Lightweight Shockproof. We’ve had no issues endurance racing it and change fluid every 3-5 race weekends or so(usually 6-18hrs of racing, each).
 
I had bought redline regular synthetic gear oil and probably should have bought something like the shock proof version. The whine went away but being a non preloaded true track it's got a lot of wear nowadays and makes some noises.
 
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