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What is this oil leak?

culberro said:
Roy is level 10 wizard. This is the way to do it.

If I have the time, I like to let the lower RTV set up for a few hours while the cover is lightly tightened down. Then I add a thin layer to the top of the paper and lightly install the cover again and wait again. Then once everything is dried, you tighten up the cover.
The only issue is that it takes all weekend just to wait for the rtv to harden up.
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That sounds like an even better method because it gives you a chance to make sure the gasket hasn?t shifted. Use the cover to mold the gasket down and make it stick and then remove the cover and put a coat of RTV on the cover and replace it. I always use a mirror to make sure the gasket hasn?t shifted.
 
This thread got derailed with the valve cover gasket discussion :lol::lol:

Has anyone here driven their red blocks with an externally leaking HG for a while or do they grenade quickly?
Also, for the suggestion to brake cleaner + goop, will that cause any further headaches down the line?
 
I replaced my head gasket for the same issue. Kept leaking externally on the exhaust side and it was neither the valve cover nor the cam seals. As far as I could tell it was an original HG. (~260k miles at the time)

My exhaust studs were the main thing I was worried about, and I ended up snapping 3 of them off. 2 were recoverable and the last was too low below the surface. Still running with 7 (well now 6 :lol:) without an exhaust leak.

About the valve cover gasket, I used RTV in the corners where it bends over the humps. Both top and bottom of the cheap gasket with no-leak & no-seep success.
 
Toybox said:
Errr... isn't a non-flat head one of the primary reasons the HG would fail in the first place?
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Head gaskets can leak coolant and oil from corrosion. Caused by long oil change intervals, never changing the coolant, and age.

All of the head gaskets I have replaced started leaking from corrosion, not from overheating and the head warping.
 
1 quart every 5k miles is what I would consider an acceptable leakage. Probably doesnt even leave a spot on the driveway.

Regarding VC Gaskets, I usually put a skim coat of Permatex "The Right Stuff" Black Flavor on the gasket and a dollop in the corners where it bends. Toight like a Toiger.
 
culberro said:
All of the head gaskets I have replaced started leaking from corrosion, not from overheating and the head warping.
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Good data point to know. I was taught that Aluminum heads warp not just with overheating, but also very, very slowly due to combustion pressure and time. Whenever I have removed one (typ 250+k miles and 25+ years), it has always needed a very small cleanup cut. Maybe I've been doing overkill, maybe a few thousandths doesn't matter, but I figure why bother with the HG replacement if I don't give it the best chances of survival? In comparison, cast iron blocks have never failed a straightedge test, for me.
 
The leak in question is oil under pressure from the oil pump to the cyl head, goop,sealer's etc won't work.
A. Leave it alone and let it leak if you do not want to change the head gasket.
B. Leave it alone, let it leak oil, run out of oil, blow up motor.
C. Leave it alone, let it leak oil, catch on fire, burn the car to the ground. [happened to a customer of mine, was too cheap to fix the problem].
 
Thanks everyone. I figured goop wasn’t going to help. I’m just going to monitor it for now and see the outcome. If it worsens, I’ll post back with questions on how to go about doing the job.
 
I timed myself when I pulled the head on my 1991 740 Turbo with 300K+ miles. It took me ONE HOUR. That is with professional tools, equipment, and skill level. Putting it back together has been taking quite a while to "do it right". With new studs, engine bay cleaning, block cleaning, replacing blown rubbers, etc.
 
240-FAN said:
Eeeek. I was afraid of this.
Hate to admit it, but the car is probably not worth fixing because I?m pretty sure those exhaust manifold nuts are not going to come out without a 3 feet breaker bar.
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A large breaker bar on a rusted exhaust stud, sounds like a disaster(I've seen the studs break with a regular racket handle). If you do decide to go the route of doing the HG, maybe check in with some of the folks on here. Personally I've never used a torch on manifold nuts, but seen plenty who did with success(careful not to damage the head!). My technique was to do something like VB242 mentioned by adding penetrating oil over several days, and that has so far worked for me.

;-)
 
ZVOLV said:
I timed myself when I pulled the head on my 1991 740 Turbo with 300K+ miles. It took me ONE HOUR. That is with professional tools, equipment, and skill level. Putting it back together has been taking quite a while to "do it right". With new studs, engine bay cleaning, block cleaning, replacing blown rubbers, etc.
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That?s mighty impressive. When the time comes, my plan is to get started on a Friday afternoon and hopefully have it back together by Sunday night.

Otto Mattik said:
A large breaker bar on a rusted exhaust stud, sounds like a disaster(I've seen the studs break with a regular racket handle). If you do decide to go the route of doing the HG, maybe check in with some of the folks on here. Personally I've never used a torch on manifold nuts, but seen plenty who did with success(careful not to damage the head!). My technique was to do something like VB242 mentioned by adding penetrating oil over several days, and that has so far worked for me.

;-)
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That?s a good idea. Dousing it with some PB Blaster every few days for a couple of months isn?t going to hurt anything I suppose. The car won?t be driven more than a few weeks now until April.
 
Get all new studs, washers, and nuts. New headbolts. A headgasket kit. A good 14mm 1/2" drive impact socket and 6" extension. A good breaker bar, and a pipe to slide over it. Get a 24mm impact socket for the crank pulley bolt.

PCV box oring, dipstick oring, heater hoses, pcv hose stuff, 15 feet of vacuum line, air filter, coolant, oil and filter!
 
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